I replaced my dead motor in my civic with another identical block-code motor. I swapped over all of the sensors from the old motor because I wasn't sure on the compatibility of them cross-platform.

Long story short: My odometer/speedometer is not working and I get code 3(MAP sensor, electrical), 10 (IAT sensor), and 17 (VSS). Not to mention the car drives like *** because it's in limp mode and going off TPS-based load maps instead of MAP-based. I have checked connections to make sure they are all solid and that I didn't plug something in to the wrong location, and I don't think I have. I wrote down the wire colors out of my Mitchell On-Demand wiring schematic and I'm going to check that out tomorrow along with busting out the ohmmeter. I have already cleaned off the ground screw, connectors, and surface on the thermostat housing for the groundings there (which I think is for most of the engine bay sensors) so an improper ground is most likely out of the picture but will be double-checked via ohm-meter tomorrow.

Only thing that might possibly affect something (even though I doubt it) is that the coolant gauge sender unit isn't installed yet (there is an allen key in the block where it needs to go and I just haven't swapped it over yet). This is just a one-wire connector, though, so if memory serves, it's a thermocouple device and won't be affecting ground or power to these other sensors.


It seems to me that something like this must have happened to someone before. I'm thinking there is some magical connector somewhere that I forgot to plug in and it is holding back everything. Anyone know of a fix for this?


Also, when I first filled it up with coolant, it leaked out of the weep hole from the water pump that I had swapped over from the other motor. By leak I mean 'shot a huge stream of water out.' I swapped back on the water pump that originally came with this replacement motor and it is no longer leaking. Is this a normal thing for Honda water pumps to just fail when you pull them off? I thought it was a pretty random occurrence.

 

some of the codes might just be on because one of the others are on....if your speedo isnt working...I would try to make sure the connection is good to the vss, fix that, and the others might disappear

 

Yea check your connection to the vss and like he also stated one code can easily set off more codes.

 

That was one of the first things I did was to check the snugness of all those connectors. I still haven't got the ohmmeter out yet so I guess that will give me some more information.

 

So I looked up wire colors and component locations and found that the ISC and EVAP connectors were switched. I switched them back now I have EVEN MORE codes :

3-MAP
5-MAP
10-IAT
14-IAC
17-VSS

*shrug is my car just falling apart?

 

So I tested grabbed the ohmmeter and tested for 5v and ground at the sensors and the ECU. All locations have 4.9-5v

HOWEVER, the grounding points have either .3 (at the ECU) or 1.3 (at the sensors) ohms of resistance with the ECU OFF. When I turn the key to 'ON', then I get 3.2 at the ecu and 12-13 ohms at the sensors. Is it normal for the ECU to provide that much resistance with the key 'ON'?