Timing belt damage (Pic attached), cause?
I took off my valve cover today to have some work done on the cover and just to check how my timing belts doing. To my surprise, I found damage on the timing belt.
Timing belt was changed 10K miles ago, along with the manual tensioner conversion on my H22a.
Timing belt looks great besides this one spot. Any ideas as to how this was caused?
Luckily I caught this before proceeding with my turbo installation. Things could get very nasty very fast if the belt snapped.Any comments or ideas would be greatly appreciated, thank you.
Timing belt was changed 10K miles ago, along with the manual tensioner conversion on my H22a.
Timing belt looks great besides this one spot. Any ideas as to how this was caused?
Luckily I caught this before proceeding with my turbo installation. Things could get very nasty very fast if the belt snapped.Any comments or ideas would be greatly appreciated, thank you.
the thing with belts is that just lookin at them every once in a while doesn't really solve anything cause its hard to really tell if anything is wrong with it just lookin at it.... i would say like the above guy and just change it and check it out and could be a defective belt... but personally my friend opened up his valve cover to get it powder coated and just eye balled the timing belt didn't thing anything was wrong with it and bam a week or 2 later that m f'er snapped
Yea, I plan on taking it out and replacing it this weekend. Thanks for all the comments/suggestions, I was just curious if anyone might have ran over this problem before.
Should I just stick with an OEM timing belt ($50.00) or does the Greddy timing belt serve any REAL benefits over the OEM belt, being 3 times as much ($140-$150).
Should I just stick with an OEM timing belt ($50.00) or does the Greddy timing belt serve any REAL benefits over the OEM belt, being 3 times as much ($140-$150).
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MugenHonda »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">your answer is behind the beholder</TD></TR></TABLE>
what???
what???
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Yea, they're even and aligned with one another.
*Update*
I changed out the timing belt with an OEM one today. My parts guy also said that it could have just been a defective belt. Nothing else leads me to believe anything is wrong. All my sprockets are good (otherwise the wear would be constant, not only in one spot). Tension is good, no oil contamination or anything. I'll just have to keep an eye on it from time to time.
So my lesson for today, keep an eye on your timing belt every once in awhile. It's good insurance for something that could get very nasty if left unchecked. But as someone mentioned, eye'ing them sometimes just doesn't cut it.
Happy motoring folks!
*Update*
I changed out the timing belt with an OEM one today. My parts guy also said that it could have just been a defective belt. Nothing else leads me to believe anything is wrong. All my sprockets are good (otherwise the wear would be constant, not only in one spot). Tension is good, no oil contamination or anything. I'll just have to keep an eye on it from time to time.
So my lesson for today, keep an eye on your timing belt every once in awhile. It's good insurance for something that could get very nasty if left unchecked. But as someone mentioned, eye'ing them sometimes just doesn't cut it.
Happy motoring folks!
I did the auto-->manual tensioner swap w/my JDM H22A swap, 1k mi later, shredded the belt. Put in a GReddy timing belt, lasted 5 mi.:

There are two pulleys(no teeth) from the tensioner that runs over the timing belt, no manual shows this, but you need a washer in between the two or they bind together after a while, tearing up the top of the belt. The GReddy did manage to hold, the OEM lost a few teeth(about 3 degrees worth). btw, the washer you need is about the size of a half dollar(& probably costs the same) but will save your engine,ie...valves,t.belt,tow truck...etc...

There are two pulleys(no teeth) from the tensioner that runs over the timing belt, no manual shows this, but you need a washer in between the two or they bind together after a while, tearing up the top of the belt. The GReddy did manage to hold, the OEM lost a few teeth(about 3 degrees worth). btw, the washer you need is about the size of a half dollar(& probably costs the same) but will save your engine,ie...valves,t.belt,tow truck...etc...
I do have the washer in between the 2 pulleys. I did my tensioner conversion from 2point6's DIY tensioner swap. Bought all the parts listed in his thread and everything was good.
Thanks for your input though, I'm sure that could've saved someone else from making the same mistake.
Thanks for your input though, I'm sure that could've saved someone else from making the same mistake.
I need to post pics of my timing belt for comparison. Kind of hard to explain without seeing, but the belt rides really close to the edge of the cam gears and appears to be getting squished/frayed on the edge of the cam gears. When I look at the opposite side of the belt (closest to the cylinder head, the belt still looks brand new....will post pics tomorrow by lunch.....my timing belt did not have a gouge in it like yours does bb_one....but mine does appear to be frayed on the edge....
Yea, I know what you're talking about. When I first got my JDM H22A swap, that same thing happened. That's when the timing belt snapped and I bent a few valves.
After that, I was paranoid, so I changed over to the H23 manual tensioner with all new parts. Since then, it has not done the same thing. The edges of my t-belt looked great. The whole belt inside/outside looked flawless besides that gouge in the middle of the belt. It went all the way through too.
I looked around if they may have been a sharp edge that the belt could've snagged onto and ripped the belt. But nothing showed up. I'm still a bit reluctant to believe it was a defective belt, but nothing else leads me to believe otherwise. I just hope it doesn't happen again. If it does, there's definitely a problem.
So everyone keep an eye on your t-belts guys, may save you from a lot of hassle if caught early!!
After that, I was paranoid, so I changed over to the H23 manual tensioner with all new parts. Since then, it has not done the same thing. The edges of my t-belt looked great. The whole belt inside/outside looked flawless besides that gouge in the middle of the belt. It went all the way through too.
I looked around if they may have been a sharp edge that the belt could've snagged onto and ripped the belt. But nothing showed up. I'm still a bit reluctant to believe it was a defective belt, but nothing else leads me to believe otherwise. I just hope it doesn't happen again. If it does, there's definitely a problem.
So everyone keep an eye on your t-belts guys, may save you from a lot of hassle if caught early!!
The crankshaft sprocket is what determines where the belt runs on the rest of the sprockets and idler pullys. If the belt overhangs the cam sprockets, someone may not have put the "guides" in correctly when replacing the crankshaft sprocket.
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