Stealthman80

is there anyway to look at the timing belt to see if it needs changing with out accualy doing all the work and taking everything out?

redlude94

just make sure everythin is aligned ,, timing belt with gears for example u weont have one gear has the belt in the middle of the gear the other the belt is abit on the site. and just make sure the belt doesnt have rips/fades and that the teeth are strong and not torn or chiped. besides that theres nothing and u cant see any of this unless u took the timing belt cover off which takes alot of work while the engine is in the car. thats y lots of ppls belts snap before they know it

teler86

very true when was the last time you changed your timing belt

Stealthman80

well I bought the car like months ago and I dont knwo when the timing belt was changed im assuming 100kms because thats when it should have and the man that owned the car was a doctor, that means it needs to be done really soon, I just have no cash right now for a 650$ job so I want to prolong it as long as possible

deserthonda

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Stealthman80 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">is there anyway to look at the timing belt to see if it needs changing with out accualy doing all the work and taking everything out?</TD></TR></TABLE>

just remove the upper timing belt cover for a good look at belt,,,,,,,,,,,u can remove valve cover and loosen up the 2 10mm bolts for the upper cover to have a so-so look at it ,,,,,,,,it very loose or see any cracks especially deep cracks ,, replace asap

teler86

do you have to replace the valve cover gasket after you remove the valve cover.

hondadude

93 accord at 195k miles??.........Change the T-belt, the water pump, the cam seal, the crank seal, the counter balance belt and seal, and the gasket called oil pump housing. Throw in a new T-stat as cheap insurance. Then you will know, without any doubts, your engine is ready for the next 90k miles you are going to drive it.
The belt in this 'link picture' has over 100k miles
http://members.troublecodes.ne...h.jpg
But in order to really see the bad tooth, the belt has to be off and bowed or stretched.

Stealthman80

ok well when I got the car a couple of months ago, th eguy I took it to is my dads friend he said I could save money by not getting all the opitional **** liek the seals and tensioner somthing orether, anyways its like 450$ for the belt and water pump + like 100$ for the valve adjustment so like 550$ or the honda dealer wants like 530$ for everything without the valve adjusment. my valves sound like a deisel there really loud. what do you think I should go for. btw I stilll ow like 4k on the car an d will have to barrow the money from my parents for this so moneys kidna an issue. btw its 195kms or like 125miles

Stealthman80

oh yeah umm, what happens if you leave the valve after they need aadjusting do they break? or does anything happen or do they just get noisy?

redlude94

i would like to know this as well. rubber gasket

Schmitey

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by redlude94 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">just make sure everythin is aligned ,, timing belt with gears for example u weont have one gear has the belt in the middle of the gear the other the belt is abit on the site. and just make sure the belt doesnt have rips/fades and that the teeth are strong and not torn or chiped. besides that theres nothing and u cant see any of this unless u took the timing belt cover off which takes alot of work while the engine is in the car. thats y lots of ppls belts snap before they know it </TD></TR></TABLE>

One of the worst pieces of partial advice I've ever heard! I've had belts break on me and replaced belts that you could tear with your bare hands. The belt looked fine with no missing teeth but the inner fibers were weak as hell. When in doubt just replace the belt. Your choice: $20 belt vs. several hundred dollar valve job (potentially, accords are clearance engines unless on VTEC at high RPM and you're unlucky). Get a goodyear belt with the copper core, you can't break those very easily (I know autozone sells them).

$100 for a valve adjustment, it'll take them 30 minutes tops?!? You got ripped off on that car by the way. I paid 4k for a 96EX with 130k miles. Anyways...you absolutely have to get the water pump done. Valve adjustment can wait (just that adjustment, no parts needed) and is non-intrusive. Don't need new valve cover seals but couldn't hurt (stop oil leaks). Oil pump gasket would be nice but IMO not necessary if its not leaking. Definitely try to get a new tensioner and pulleys if you can, if those bearings fail you just pissed away your money. Get balancer shaft belt too!

There's a fine line between minimal maintenance and total car care. If it were me I'd replace every seal and gasket I could get my hands on while they're in there. On the other hand unless it absolutely fails (unlikely) at worst you're just gonna have an oil spot on the driveway. Without a doubt budgeting sucks, but I can tell you from experience its better to to pay the money up front than get broadsided when stuff breaks down that you could have replaced cheaply and easily. Maintenance is ALWAYS cheaper than repair.



Modified by Schmitey at 12:31 AM 10/18/2005

Stealthman80

dude im in canada, the book value for my car is like 5,500, the cost for valve adjustment is 89.99-100$ everyware I looked, the dealer accualy being the cheapest. I just came back form the dealer and they said it only had to be changed every 144kms my cars got 196k so itll be fine for a while. its funny it says 144k in the manual and I had another honda dealer say 100k and my dads freind said 100k wtf


also look at the prices here see I paid 3800$ for mine

http://www.trader.ca/search/Re...CAT=1

Schmitey

****, I'm selling my car in Canada when it comes to that! Sorry man, didn't even think to look where you were from.

100k sounds right for the valve adjustment. Honestly man I'd say do it yourself if its gonna cost you $100 (dollar right?). Its really not that hard and almost impossible to screw up. The hardest part is finding top dead center, but that's only important because both the intake and exhaust valves are up (you need this so you can adjust them otherwise you're fighting the springs). It'll take a 10 mm socket I think it is (valve cover), a gaping tool for the valves, a flathead screwdriver, and a large 1/2 in. breaker bar or ratchet to turn the crankshaft by hand. You may need another wrench for the adjustment I can't remember. I believe there is a screw that goes down and locks a nut that is the actual adjustment; you hold the nut in place with the wrench and tighten down the screw.

LookingForVTEC

Just to let you know that your timing belt will not look worn even if it needs to be changed. I have seen people that have changed there timing belt well after 100k mi and did not look worn out even though it was. So you will not be able to tell if your belt needs to be changed by looking at it. You only know by the miles!

Stealthman80

yeah well im going to get it changed next week my cars 12 years old so even tho milage might be ok its at 6 years

stooge63

hi - 99' accord LX, 72K (mostly) highway miles, faithful 3K oil changes, 2 tune ups in that time, brakes replaced once, but just had new rotors put on front last week. am considering doing the timing belt now (an ounce of prevention... ). Do i need the whole job (water pump, etc), or would just the belt job cover me till 100K, maybe. i know you don't have a crystal ball, but the car seems to be a-o-k and money's tight. dealer says they will only do the whole job. any advice would be helpful. thx.

Schmitey

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by stooge63 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hi - 99' accord LX, 72K (mostly) highway miles, faithful 3K oil changes, 2 tune ups in that time, brakes replaced once, but just had new rotors put on front last week. am considering doing the timing belt now (an ounce of prevention... ). Do i need the whole job (water pump, etc), or would just the belt job cover me till 100K, maybe. i know you don't have a crystal ball, but the car seems to be a-o-k and money's tight. dealer says they will only do the whole job. any advice would be helpful. thx.</TD></TR></TABLE>

you tell me. If the water pump, seals, balance shaft belt, or bearings give you gotta go in and at best remove the belt. You're talking about $100 extra to be on the aggressive side of maintenance. Water pump and balance shaft belts are a must, I'd try to replace the tensioner pulley as well. Sure there's more labor involved for the dealorship so they make more, but its really worth it if anything goes wrong. Its always cheaper to do things right the first time than have an "ah crap" moment. I learned that the hard way after doing two costly valve jobs within 6 months of each other because I didn't replace the balance shaft belt on my old Eclipse!!!

Stealthman80

ok I got my belt and all that changed last sat

total 668$ cdn

t belt
balancer belt
water pump
seals
screw &lt;-nice
+4 hours labour

it took them 5:30 hours and they said my water pump was leaking the engines a little quiter at idle now

YeuEmMaiMai

I believe that the new belts are good for 105K (that is what the honda dealer told me when he changed my t-belt at 90K)

Thunder Cat

any recommendations for a T belt/90ex acccord?