I think I know what the issue is, but was looking for some validation.

I have a '92 Si that was an H23 and now has an H22A4 (still OBD-1) and the swap was completed about 4 weeks ago. The throttle cable was recently replaced and ran fine before the new cable was installed...now the car idles at around 1800 (checked all vacuum connections and all seems fine) and sputters (mildly) as it is idling. Once I shift, the engine feels like it is hesitating through accelration until I shift to the next gear.

When I got the car back, the mechanic said that he thought the FPR (which is supposed to be adjustable with an oil faced gauge) is not adjustable and the gauge does not work at all.....

He said to just replace the Adjustable FPR with the stock one because it seems like the engine is running rich and causing misfires(?) Also, the O2 sensor needs to be replaced, so am pretty sure that is not helping things either.

If I replace the FPR (to stock) and then pop in a new O2 sensor, is there anything else that could cause the feeling of a misfire....? Does the new throttle cable need to be adjusted...? Is it bad to idle at 1800-2000 constantly..?(and the throttle adjusting screw is tight, so don't think that would help the idle..?)


Need some advice everyone, as I drive down the highway, I can hardly get enough speed to keep up with traffic...

I also have some dyno time scheduled for next week as well so I hope everthing will be taken care of then.....

 

Take your IACV underneath your throttle off. You will see a small plate with 3 screws on the side of the IACV take that off . You will see a large white thread sleeve with slots on each side. Screw that in until it bottoms out. Reinstall in the reverse order and your car should run better.

 

Check your plugs and wires if you haven't already done so. I too had a sputtering/hesitation problem caused by misfire, changed plugs and wires and problem was solved.

 

Yeah, since the engine is almost at 500 miles during the break in period, I was already planning on changing the plugs and wires. I will see if this helps in conjunction with changing the FPR, installing the O2 sensor and checking the IACV.

any one else got ideas or things I should check...?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NoVALude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
&lt;1&gt;now the car idles at around 1800 (checked all vacuum connections and all seems fine) and sputters (mildly) as it is idling.

&lt;2&gt;Once I shift, the engine feels like it is hesitating through accelration until I shift to the next gear.

&lt;3&gt;He said to just replace the Adjustable FPR with the stock one because it seems like the engine is running rich and causing misfires(?) Also, the O2 sensor needs to be replaced, so am pretty sure that is not helping things either.

&lt;4&gt;If I replace the FPR (to stock) and then pop in a new O2 sensor, is there anything else that could cause the feeling of a misfire....?

&lt;5&gt;Does the new throttle cable need to be adjusted...? Is it bad to idle at 1800-2000 constantly..?(and the throttle adjusting screw is tight, so don't think that would help the idle..?)

&lt;6&gt;Need some advice everyone, as I drive down the highway, I can hardly get enough speed to keep up with traffic...

&lt;7&gt;I also have some dyno time scheduled for next week as well so I hope everthing will be taken care of then.....</TD></TR></TABLE>

ANSWERS:
&lt;1&gt;no idleing around 1800 is not good..could be vacume lines hooked up wrong, wiring problem..I'm sure others will chime in with other suggestions

&lt;2&gt;Timimg? Ignition??...you say misfiring?? any detonation as well?? 91 or higher octane is what you use depending on where you live

&lt;3/4&gt;what kind of fuel pressure regulator is it?? I'd go back to a stock one......if your O2 is bad you'd be throwing a CEL..is it?? misfire...are your spark plugs gapped at 44-45??? how old are they??? wires? cap rotor??? Internal coil or external coil??? Bad timing

&lt;5&gt;only way to find out is to adjust it? but it is idleing WAY to high

&lt;6&gt; wow...I wouldn't drive a car with problems like this IMO..sounds like bad timing?? but you are listing ALOT of problems?

&lt;7&gt; IMO I wouldn't drive the car more than I have to untill these major problems are fixed..Dyno...out of the questions, but it is your car...IMO for a car running as bad as stated 3rd gear pulls=no way....

hope this helps.....I don't know man..you never said if your throwing any CEL I'd bet my H22 you are.....I'll watch this topic to see your updates...and see if I can think of anything else

 

Went out this morning and the car smelled like gas. Popped the hood and the hose from my FPR to the fuel rail was dripping gas...the FPR was some aftermarket one that was supposed to be adjustable, but replaced with the stock one and started on my way to work. First half of my ride to work was great.....real strong!! .... got about halfway here and it started sputtering again.

Just replaced the plugs (they were over a year old and the H23 plugs, instead of the H22A4 plugs (old ones were not platinum...) and the wires were real loose..am getting new wires later this afternoon and will throw those on too....

Vaccum lines were all checked....three or four times!! not just by me either....the guys that did the work after the swap checked them too but had nothing to offer to fix the idle.

Thought I mentioned that the O2 sensor is not in there right now, but has not been in the exhaust since I got the car and when I got the car until 2 days ago, the car ran fine. So I do have a CEL, but only for the O2 sensor.

I am hoping that the plugs and wire replacements will help.....still worried about the idle. How bad is idling that high and driving still....? Won't have time until this weekend and if not then during Dyno time next week.


I will keep you posted to see what happens after lunch with the ride home.

edit: would a bored out TB mean I need to adjust the FITV?

thanks!!


Modified by NoVALude at 9:05 AM 6/27/2006

 

Get some wires that aren't loose, install an O2 sensor and reset your ECU and then give it a test drive.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hondabigblock &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Take your IACV underneath your throttle off. You will see a small plate with 3 screws on the side of the IACV take that off . You will see a large white thread sleeve with slots on each side. Screw that in until it bottoms out. Reinstall in the reverse order and your car should run better. </TD></TR></TABLE>

That's not an IACV, that's a FITV (fast idle thermo valve) on the bottom of the throttle body.

 

Any ideas about the idle? should I try that FITV fix...?


thanks hawkze

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NoVALude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Any ideas about the idle? should I try that FITV fix...?


thanks hawkze</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah, for sure. FITV is a big cause of idle problems, but if you're still idleing at 1800, you might have a vacuum leak somewhere you haven't checked yet....intake manifold gasket for example.

 

Ok, the sputtering seems to have subsided....new plugs and tightening the wires seems to have solved the problem...am still going to get new wires later this afternoon.....and have to get the O2 sensor yet....

quick ? about the O2 sensor:

I have a 92, but the engine and downpipe are from a 99 Base.....I still just get the H23 (92 Si) version of the sensor right?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NoVALude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

edit: would a bored out TB mean I need to adjust the FITV?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

how much did you mod it???? and you didn't use Bocsh plugs did you????

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by I got the CD5 Jeebies! &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

how much did you mod it???? and you didn't use Bocsh plugs did you????</TD></TR></TABLE>

check my sig... and NO I did not use BOSCH...got the NGK platinums......

edit: oh, the TB was bored out by maxbore here on H-T.....not sure but maybe 67 mm?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NoVALude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">check my sig... and NO I did not use BOSCH...got the NGK platinums......

edit: oh, the TB was bored out by maxbore here on H-T.....not sure but maybe 67 mm? </TD></TR></TABLE>

get rid of the platinums and just get v-powers.

more expensive isn't always better

Sounds to me like the IM gasket could be leaking.

With the engine cold, spray some starter fluid or carborator fluid around
all of the hoses and the im gasket and listen for a change in sound or rpm.

If there is no change, then it's probably not leaking anywhere.

Edit, I see its not hesitating anymore, but you know how to check
for leaks next time

 

I about **** when the dude said the plugs were like $15 each....


I am using a hondata IM gasket and I know that I torqued everything properly when I did the engine swap. I am going to check the lines again this weekend, I am just worried about the effects of having the idle that high.....




edit: also I forgot to mention that when the clutch is released (not in gear) the idle drops real fast and it feels like the engine has to force itself to start idling or maybe that the pressure that brings the idle up to 1800 is speeding the crank up too fast...?


Modified by NoVALude at 5:36 AM 6/28/2006