Hi!

I'll try to explain shortly what has happened.

I am running d16z6 engine. At first I upgraded it with 59300 Zex camshaft and problem appeared. Every time vtec engaged, engine didn't work properly. In fact it didn't work fine (after vtec activation) when I went lower- out of vtec rpm. I reinstalled camshaft again.. no changes.. looked like there is something with cam,but it was brand new.

Then I decided to upgrade my valvetrain and bought JGE valve springs and titanium retainer kit to solve this. I put them into engine and vtec worked fine at first then I tested it driving and things went down. At the ~7500 rpm engine stopped.. reason- bent intake valve. I bent just one valve. So I thought it was valve keeper which slipped off and piston hit valve.

I changed bent valve to new one. Replaced valve guide and did inspectoin of rocker arms. Seemed everything was perfect. Tested it on the street.. engine went down again- bent valve. And again the same intake valve.

If someone can help me with advice- you are welcome. Want to ride my d16z6 wo trouble again..


Modified by roberts at 8:22 AM 6/27/2006


Modified by d16z6 user at 9:45 AM 7/2/2006

 

P.S. Timing isn't off after this..

 

Maybe the valve guide is messed up? Did u adjust ur valves? Only thing i can think of

 

Maybe it's doing it out of spite because you keep saying v-tec instead of VTEC. It's not "VEEE-TEHCNOLOGY!". Seriously: it says it on the valve cover most of the time, so stop ******* it up.

Variable valve timing and lift electronic control.

 

LOL

 

Archidictus if you're the smart one you could help me other way than learning spelling vtec properly. btw how it looks now?

Ok,back to bent valve..
It can't be valve guide cause before cam install everything was perfect and valves were adjusted after 59300 install.

It seems like valve jams somehow.

Any other ideas?

 

if it keeps happening - STOP DOING IT

 

Its very possible you are floating the valve at 8000 rpm, maybe you should keep it under 7600 to keep things safe....Not all products are meant for extreme use. Check with JG to see what the springs rev limit is....

 

i dont think there is any reason for that d-series to go above the stock rev limiter...
which is 7200.
wtf.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by graveltravel2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i dont think there is any reason for that d-series to go above the stock rev limiter...
which is 7200.
wtf.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Different cam and different valvetrain = different powerband, noob.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by roberts &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Archidictus if you're the smart one you could help me other way than learning spelling vtec properly. btw how it looks now?</TD></TR></TABLE>

If you're getting good - and fast - at doing the valve replacement, why not clay the motor and see what kind of lift characteristics you're dealing with? If you can roll it over by hand a couple times while keeping the high-lobes locked (I'm sure you can do this, but I don't remember how off-hand) you'll be able to tell what clearances you've got and the valve might display some of the same binding/misaligning/bending that you're seeing when you drive it.

Just something to think about. Sorry for getting on your *** about the spelling It's a site pet-peeve and it's strictly comedic. No offense meant