I was in 5th and pulled to 2nd gear when I was going 75mph on the highway. When I got home, I heard a really bad rattle under my hood when I rev up. I looked under my hood and noticed that rattle was coming from my head. It wasn't exactly a rattle but more of a loud very fast knocking. What damage did I do to my motor when I overrevved? Could I have bent a valve? I can still drive my car fine. It idles just fine. The car does not bog down. The only problem is that when the RPM goes up, it makes the sound.

I also have another problem. I changed my oil about 2500mile ago and the oil light just turned on a few weeks ago. Why is it burning so much oil? The car has about 98,000miles on it. I'm using Valvoline Synthetic Maxlife by the way. My friend says he can smell something bad coming from my car. I'm assuming it's burnt oil.

I did a compression test right afterwards.
1 - 195
2 - 225
3 - 230
4 - 235

I just recorded a video of my motor making the sound. Hopefully, it'll provide you guys more information.

Video here

I also have pictures of the spark plugs if those provide anything info.

1

2

3

4

 

wow big problems, did u notice your oil light its on steady untill you rev it then it flickers. thats a sign of bearing failure.

was it burning oil prior to this??? was the light on steady?

how long before u pulled it back out of gear, and did the tach top out??

and that sound is alil off frequency for valves taping the pistons.

i would say that is deffinate rod knock, just b/c of the oil light being on. a bunch of bent intake valves would never cause the oil light to come on like that.

either way its gonna be a costly rebuild, dont keep driving it its just a matter of time before it completely fails now

sorry, about the bad news just hope its the bottom end it will be cheaper and faster to get done. as opposed to new guides, stem seals, valves, valve seats, and maybe a new set of keepers/valve locks for peace of mind

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by akstunt600 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">wow big problems, did u notice your oil light its on steady untill you rev it then it flickers.

and that sound is alil off frequency for taping the pistons.

i would say that is deffinate rod knock, just b/c of the oil light being on. a bunch of bent intake valves would never cause the oil light to come on like that.

either way its gonna be a costly rebuild, dont keep driving it its just a matter of time before it completely fails now

sorry, about the bad news just hope its the bottom end it will be cheaper and faster to get done. as opposed to new guides, stem seals, valves, valve seats, and maybe a new set of keepers/valve locks for peace of mind</TD></TR></TABLE>
You are only going to make it cost more by driving on it.

Your compression is way off in Cylinder #1. Thats probably where your probably lies.

 

Bearing is gone, time for a rebuild. Defianetaly rod knock

 

you can find out right now if u bent a valve. go get a feeler guage from autzone, pepeboys, napa, or even homedepot. set your enging at TDC and go stick the feeler guage # .006 under both of your in. valves and .007ex. if you cant adj. it back to normal with a 10mm deep socket and a flat head. theres your problem bent valve.

BTW, deffinatly sounds like rod knock to me though

 

why did you go to second from fifth?


Anyways, it isn't valve train because of the frequency, I'd have to agree with most people here and saying rod knock / bearing issues. Rebuild defintly required.

 

I'm not 100% on this but friend of mine did sort of the same thing whith same noise.

Did you notice is you left oil stains on your driveway?

If so, check behind the exhaust manifold and the back side of the engine bloc and check for hole made by a broken conecting rod.

Oil light coming on at any rpm higher than idle could mean theres just not enough oil left in oil pan.

 

^ummm no buddy, the oil light could come on b/c low oil but i would think that this guy isnt retarded, the dipstick is right ther why wouldnt he check especially if he mentioned above that it was burning oil. that means he was on top of the problem

once the rod goes through the block its gonna be alot louder and it will be alot harder to rev, if it even functions at all anymore.

 

if he thrw a rod out of the block he would have an I3 until he bought a new block... cant fix a rod goign through a sleeve and the rest of the block

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by akstunt600 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">^ummm no buddy, the oil light could come on b/c low oil but i would think that this guy isnt retarded, the dipstick is right ther why wouldnt he check especially if he mentioned above that it was burning oil. that means he was on top of the problem

once the rod goes through the block its gonna be alot louder and it will be alot harder to rev, if it even functions at all anymore.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

For the record, my oil light didn't come on when my old engine only had 1 qt of oil in it. The oil pressure light should not be used as a tell tale sign that something is wrong. You have to remember that the ECU will attempt to compensate for deficiencies....to a certain point.

On another note, if the over revving of the engine was brief and the engine and it's associated sensors were in good condition, odds are the damage is in the head. Bent valves and worn seals are a possibility.

 

wow man. im in the same boat... but thing is im not sure mines a rod knock or valves yet... didnt misshift but i over rev'd it to test out rev limiter.. but no kick in.. also im turbocharged.. =\ .. took it to two mechanics.. they arnt sure if rod knock ... juss sure its my valves..

 

would rebuilding be cheaper and better than buying an ITR motor?

 

rebuild

 

better off just buying a used or built head, you dont need the whole engine.. just the head.

sounds horrible and you shouldnt drive around with oil lights on.. especially, hitting vtec when you don't have enough oil there...
you should of check your oil regularly and make sure you top it up all the time..
hope you learn your lesson this time

 

rebuilding would be a lot cheaper. bearings would only be 200 tops for all of them, rings if you choose to another 100, depending on how messed up your head is, couple hundred more. first comes to worst you have to buy a new head for what 700? less than a grand &gt; ITR motor

 

i actually did it on purpose to find an excuse to build the motor, buy a new motor, or buy a new car. if i rebuild the motor with the right parts, can it be better than the ITR motor in everyway. give me a list of what to do.