I'll try to keep this story short, but give you guys the details.
97 turbo gsr, friend was mobbin, got pulled over, cop poped hood and somehow messed up the oil line to turbo. My friend didn't notice it untill he was almost home and the car was smoking from oil burning on the mani. Friend didn't know what to do, or how to fix it. he let the car sit for over a year. Now its in my hands, and Im wanting to get this baby running again. He just had a shop look at the car, and they are saying that it needs new oil pump,water pump,new bottom end and possibly turbo. they said they found traces of metal in oil pan. They are also saying bottom end is blown due to lack of oil from when the turbo wasn't gettin oil. Yet, they said that it started up just fine? Does any of this make sense to you guys?
My friend didn't drive home more than 5 miles after he got pulled over, and didn't push it when he was on his way home. I have no idea why he didn't get it fixed right after he new something was wrong.

Questions...
1)Where do I start? what are some simple steps and checks that I can do to diagnose what could be wrong? (if anything)
2) The car runs apparently. but will it be hurting anything if i start it up again?
3) car sat for over a year, what needs to be changed? I know the basic fluids, what about seals,gaskets,belts?

Car:
97 GSR w/ stock head and eagle rods/9.8:1 81mm CP pistons
-custom turbo kit
-Blox manifold
-custom Spoolin Performance Piping
-t3/t04e .57 trim 63 ar Turbonetics turbo
-full 3" dp
-750 injectors
-S100b Hondata *MASE Tuned!!! Car made 359hp/293 tq*
-Thermal 3" exhaust
-Edlebrock Intake manifold
-Ohlins Coilovers with rear ITR LCA's
-Spoon front and rear strut bars
-JDM ITR red Recaro seats and JDM rear seats
-JDM ITR LSD
-JDM 23mm rear Swaybar
-APR CF mirrors
-CF hood
-Retrofitted 00 BMW 740il 6000k HID's
-Mugen Pedal covers
-Clifford IG8000 alarm with built in turbo timer, blackjax and auto windows
-dvd player
Turbo gauge

 

What the expletive does "mobbin" mean?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Archidictus &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What the expletive does "mobbin" mean?</TD></TR></TABLE>

ROFL

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Archidictus &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What the expletive does "mobbin" mean?</TD></TR></TABLE>

haha, just goin bout 75...
but im not lookin to get flamed, I need some serious help

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 20civic00 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

haha, just goin bout 75...
but im not lookin to get flamed</TD></TR></TABLE>

Then dont say things like mobbin

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b16adx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Then dont say things like mobbin</TD></TR></TABLE>

ok..got it, but this isn't helping me with my car. "honda-tech" not "honda-we-don't-like-a-word-you-said"

just want some help with the car.

 

the cop messed with his oil line when he was MOBBIN.

BAHAHAAHAHHAHAHAAH

what next?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by shortyz21 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the cop messed with his oil line when he was MOBBIN.

BAHAHAAHAHHAHAHAAH

what next?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'll bet a fireman sets fire to his house OMG!

 

I was gonna ask the same thing.... maybe in a few years that word will make it to michigan

Either way, how much was it leaking oil? I mean if it ran low on oil from leaking out the turbo, then yes it could cuase damage. I'd drain the oil, drop the pan, if it looks clean you could call it good, or you could pull the caps and check out the bearings. May want to just bite the bullit and rebuild it, having sat for a year prolly some rust in the cylinder walls too. Or, you could fire it up and listen to what it sounds like

Good luck and keep on mobbin !!

 

do a compression check and leakdown test. do a complete tuneup and work from there.

also, how do you know the cop messed up the feed line? did you actually see him messing with it? can't always assume things...

 

Shutup you retards, why would anyone come on here just to flame the guy for a word he used. WHo cares why do you care, shutup and stay on the topic help him out.

My only guess would be during the bottom end build he re-used the oil oil pump and and it just felt like siezing up (unlikely) and stopped flowing oil thus causing the motor to sieze up. Oil pump failure is rare but I have heard of it so its not impossible.

Unfortunately he had nice pistons in there and Im gonna assume they are junk now. Whatever, A set of eagle rods and the same pistons will run you about $650 max on ebay with rings pins and locks.

It does not appear you have much tech knowledge so what I would do if I were you and had a car as sick as that, buy your parts off ebay and buy this:

96+ obd-2 GSR/Type R OIl pump (they are the same) $100 from Honda
GSR/Type R timing belt($20 non oem)
GSR/Type R water pump ($40)
A complete engine gasket set ($150)
HondaBond $15 from Honda
Thats all I can think of for now, of course there are many little things that may need to be replaced and you can only find them at the dealer. A great place to get this is at acuraparts 2 4 7 dot com. They have the oem blow up diagrams of all the parts for the car and engine. I order from them all the time and the prices beat the dealer but equate the same after shipping but it works out because You dont have to go to the dealer and place an order and then wait and then go pick it up. The stuff comes right to your door no BS.

But before you do any of this listen to the guy before me, do a complete compression and leakdown test, if you dont know how or dont have the tools bring it to a mechanic if you can baby the car there. A tune up may help but its highly unlikey new plugs, wires, cap and rotor will help from what it sounds like what happened.

I doubt the cop did anythig tothe oil feed because he would need a wrench to get in there and it would have been way 2 hot to loosen.

Ive blown 1 and built many B series honda vtec motors I know wtf I am talking about.

 

thanks b18c turbo for the back up and for the information. I'll do all I can, see how it goes from there. If I have anymore questions, I'll just pm you since it seems to me you are the only one wanting to help.

 

1.pull oil pan check for metal shavings
2.check shaft play on turbo
3.compression test and leak down
4. hook up an oil pressure gauge and tell us what your oil pressure is at durring idle and driving
5.then post results

 

do exactly what this guy just said above me, in that order, then let us know.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TheCheeseWedge &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">1.pull oil pan check for metal shavings
2.check shaft play on turbo
3.compression test and leak down
4. hook up an oil pressure gauge and tell us what your oil pressure is at durring idle and driving
5.then post results</TD></TR></TABLE>

will do! thanks cheese

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TheCheeseWedge &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">1.pull oil pan check for metal shavings
2.check shaft play on turbo
3.compression test and leak down
4. hook up an oil pressure gauge and tell us what your oil pressure is at durring idle and driving
5.then post results</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18C Turbo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">do exactly what this guy just said above me, in that order, then let us know.</TD></TR></TABLE>

not arguring or anything but why would you drain the oil before you did the compression test/leak down test? just to do it with new oil? maybe lube the walls better?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18B-SC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


not arguring or anything but why would you drain the oil before you did the compression test/leak down test? just to do it with new oil? maybe lube the walls better?</TD></TR></TABLE>

nah its cool. you dont want to be turning your motor over with the possibility of having metal shaving in it. but typically it is not nessisary to change oil before you do compression test/ leak down test

 

I had this girl mobbin my ****.... today

Whoops I done messed up used that word.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MidShipCivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I had this girl mobbin my ****.... today

Whoops I done messed up used that word.</TD></TR></TABLE>

and mobbin reappears