So i was installing my first Amp in my civic...i have ALL the lines run perfetly accept for remote power ...and like a dumbass i cut the main power line for my pioneer deh-p7300mp and spliced that **** in...turned on the car....nothing happend. the recievers not even displaying clock time. So then i go look at the wres and find the line in the wiring harness LABLED with a big NEON blue tab saying to connect to for remote power...acc:-/...soi get my tools out and sodder the yellow main power back together and use some shrinkwrap tubing...and put everything back in...still no power to the headunit....do i need a new audio harness adapter? i thik so right?

 

So you spliced the remote wire onto the 12 volt wire on the radio? first things I would do is check the fuse on the radio, then the fuse in the fuse boxs both under dash and under hood. Then check back in and tell us what happend.

 

idk if this will sounddum but better to cover all the basics first....when u soldered everything back, did u hit the power button on ur cd player?

 

some units need to be reset first...

my alipine has a reset button.. and the manual said, after you install it, you have to hit the reset button first, before it would turn on....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bpr0422 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">some units need to be reset first...

my alipine has a reset button.. and the manual said, after you install it, you have to hit the reset button first, before it would turn on....</TD></TR></TABLE>

thats only if you have power and acc. connected to it. it just makes it easy to reset to factory settings if you tampered with the settings. Theres no real use to push it when you 1st install it. but hey ive been wrong before. worth a shot. the button should be behind the faceplate

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by imadigitalgod &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">idk if this will sounddum but better to cover all the basics first....when u soldered everything back, did u hit the power button on ur cd player? </TD></TR></TABLE> lol, true! oh and when you first turn on the radio even after you pulled it out turn the car to on.

 

No reset button, all fuses fine, im stumped:-/

well there is one fuse thats bad...a 7.5 aux under the hood..but thats been blows for i dunno how many years....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SkorchedAsh &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">No reset button, all fuses fine, im stumped:-/

well there is one fuse thats bad...a 7.5 aux under the hood..but thats been blows for i dunno how many years....</TD></TR></TABLE> LOL, thats the fuse you need to change I bet, there are 2 fuses for the radio, one is for the acc., [in under dash fuse box] the other is almost always a 7.5A for constant power, [in under hood fuse box] if the fuse on your new HUs constant power wire, [yellow] is bigger then 7.5A, you are going to need to run another power line, [12ga should do] from the batt. to behind the HU and connect the yellow to it, under no circumstances replace the 7.5A with a bigger one. 94

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> under no circumstances replace the 7.5A with a bigger one. 94</TD></TR></TABLE>

iv seen someone try to run an amp off of the stock wire, he saw the 7.5amp fuse and decided that it would blow so he used a 30 amp fuse in place of it so it would get the power it needed, or he thought

the fuse is to protect the wire, NOT the actual device that it is running off of. the 7.5 fuse is protecting a wire that can <U>only</U> hold that much or it will be dangerous.

 

i was stupid and hooking up remote start power to the main power for the radio. not the MAIN MAIN amp power to the radio. . but yeah, that 7.5 under the hood...you think that could be it? Where can i buy a 7.5 fuse?


Modified by SkorchedAsh at 3:23 AM 6/10/2006

 

At any car parts store, Auto Zone, Pioneers side is down for maintenance so I can't check what fuse is used on the constant power, [yellow] but as I said before, check and see what it is, if it is higher then 7.5A do not use the oem constant, run a new lead from the batt., [just like you did for the amps power].

The reason you need to do this is for the oem HU the constant power is only for the HUs memory, [radio presets] on today's "high power" aftermarket HUs the constant power is like the power lead for an amp, [I should say exactly like the power lead for an amp, as it is the power for the HUs 4ch amp] and everything else in the HU and the acc., [that was power for the oem HU] is only a turn on, [trigger] for the aftermarket HU, [just like the control lead of your amp]. 94

 

Well, i got the 7.5a fuse from auto-zone...a 10pack for $2. The units running again...but the amp for the sub isnt coming on even though i have it wired correctly. Amp main power direct from battery to back, connected to amp...Amp ground connected to bolt connecting hatch to back. Amp remote power connected to amp remote powerline for HU (labled for amp connection so i KNOW its right) and R/B audio cable from preamp outs on Hu to amp in back...but the amp isnt coming on....could the ground not be in a good place? i checked the fuses again, and everythings fine.

 

Definitely the first thing I would check is the ground.

I am not sure I understand where the amp is grounded...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SkorchedAsh &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Amp ground connected to bolt connecting hatch to back.</TD></TR></TABLE> What bolt, where is the amp mounted?
Make sure the amp has a good ground, [amp turns on] before the RCAs are connected, if you have a poor or no ground on the amp and amp is turned on, amp can get it's ground through the RCAs, [some amps and HUs] and because they are just for signal return, [low current] the traces on the circuit boards will blow like a fuse, normally in the HU, however this will not keep the amp from turning on, [if it has a good ground]. 94

 

disconnect the remote wire from the amp, and run a jumper from the power wire to the remote terminal. If the amp turns on, you have a problem with the remote turn on (wire or headunit, most likely headunit).

 

Nope, i also tryed to repositin the ground to a few other spots, i used a small screw inside the left brake housing, the left shock top thingy, and the bolt it was on before....i think i give up..il just pay the $100 and have a shop do it.....i suck. Im just going to ahve to try harder on my Legend(^_^)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SkorchedAsh &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Nope, i also tryed to repositin the ground to a few other spots, i used a small screw inside the left brake housing, the left shock top thingy, and the bolt it was on before....i think i give up..il just pay the $100 and have a shop do it.....i suck. Im just going to ahve to try harder on my Legend(^_^)</TD></TR></TABLE> Your giving up already, if you think the ground is good then try what 02 accord suggests, just use a piece wire to jump from amps 12V (+) input to the remote input, if the ground is good, [and it would be if you used a shock tower bolt/nut] and you have 12V (+) on the power lead and the amp itself is not the problem, the amp will turn on, and as stated, if it does, then there is a problem with the remote turn on/amp control lead off the HU, [no power], or a break in the remote lead, if it's the remote output of the HU just connect the remote lead to the same lead as the HUs red acc. lead, be a bitch to pay good money if that was all that was wrong. 94

 

honestly, if you couldn't get past just getting the wiring straight, you souldn't be attempting the install yourself. You should've asked someone that knows their stuff to walk you through it

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vlude99 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">honestly, if you couldn't get past just getting the wiring straight, you souldn't be attempting the install yourself. You should've asked someone that knows their stuff to walk you through it</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by imadigitalgod &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">idk if this will sounddum but better to cover all the basics first....when u soldered everything back, did u hit the power button on ur cd player? </TD></TR></TABLE>

this is off topic, but wow! my parents were raised in olathe KS. kinda crazy for being such a small town. anyways. back on topic.

 

Its somthing i grounded it on the shock tower and tried to jump it, nothing, the amp didnt turn on. So now i know its the amp thats busted, deff. Guess that gives me an excuse to get a more powerfull one? im thinking Rockford?....but this time il just have someone do a pro install. Ive dont plenty of harder jobs(ran cable/ethernet/phone lines for whole house), but i want the SOUND....NOW!