I am going to keep this short and sweet since I'm tired.

Setup -
D16Z6 w/OBD-1 conversion done by yours truly, Crome is the program
CEL --> 41 (Oxygen Heater)

Issue -
There is a random misfire that restricts first and second gears predominately. Part throttle doesn't feel it but full throttle has the car going, pausing and surging again. Sometimes its a blip, sometimes its a full shudder.

I have replaced the spark plugs with some nice shiny OEM Densos (because Honda handed me those instead of NGK) which are gapped to 1.05mm, tried two sets of known good wires, and a total of three good distributors. Oh, and it has a nice new Fuel filter filtering out my 93 octane (eat that California)

Now here is the quicker - if the tires loose traction for any reason and spin -- say go around a corner and hit the gas to early -- the misfire because MUCH MUCH worse. 1-3k just shudders in all gears, and you can't get it smoothly into VTEC without the shudder. It'll go away eventually, but first and second will still give me that shudder. Now I have eliminated the drivetrain, since one it isn't constant and two I know what a bad clutch feels like, the motor keeps revving but you don't get anywhere. This is a definite break in the powerband.

COULD IT BE:
- Ignition? If so what bit?
- Clogged bit of the exhaust?
- Jesus intervention?
- Anything else?

Also, what would cause it to really act up after the tires spin? It's making FTL (Full throttle Launch) a biznitch to use

 

I'm having a similar problem on my mini-me. Fix your code 41 first, are you using a 4 wire O2 sensor? I think on mine the issue is my VSS isn't working because the speedo cable isn't in, but I know it will run like crap without good O2 readings. What header are you using? It's ok to use a 1 wire with a stock header because the sensor is close enough to the engine to stay hot, but if you have say, a DC header, where the sensor is behind and under the motor, it's got to be a 4 wire or it won't give accurate readings.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by downest &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm having a similar problem on my mini-me. Fix your code 41 first, are you using a 4 wire O2 sensor? I think on mine the issue is my VSS isn't working because the speedo cable isn't in, but I know it will run like crap without good O2 readings. What header are you using? It's ok to use a 1 wire with a stock header because the sensor is close enough to the engine to stay hot, but if you have say, a DC header, where the sensor is behind and under the motor, it's got to be a 4 wire or it won't give accurate readings.</TD></TR></TABLE>I'm using a four wire Oxygen sensor, and if I was having a bad VSS reading my rev-limiter would lock at 4K which isn't happening. This car ran fine for....three odd days and then some FTL testing and bam, straight to hell. I am using a DC-Sports 4-1 and I used a one-wire back when I had my A6, ran fine. Now If I knew how to hook this damn 4-Wire Oxygen sensor up I'd be glad to get rid of the CEL...I'd even be able to use my CEL as a proper shift light then.

 

So it sounds like you just need to wire the 4 wire correctly? It's weird that it was running right and then started throwing a code...
Your 4 wire has directions with it that tell you which colour corresponds to each function, one is signal, one is the ground, and 2 for the heater. The signal comes off your CRX harness' stock signal wire, or C16 on the OBD0 harness (D14 on OBD1). The ground, obviously, goes to a ground. The heater wires are non-polar, they will both be the same colour. One goes to A06 on the OBD1 harness, the other to an ECU power wire, I used B01 (again, OBD1 side).

I don't think the VSS would set the rev-limiter at 4k RPM, I know for a fact my speedo cable is hanging loose in the bay, and I can rev right up to redline no problem (and yes I'm getting a code for the VSS).

Just curious, how do you have the CEL wired for a shift light? I'm putting an A6 in my friend's HF and he wants to keep his stock HF cluster and use the shift light on it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dr_latino999 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">COULD IT BE:
- Jesus intervention?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Lol @ that. Bump 4 u.

 

you can chip most honda ecu's to make the cel act as a shift light, or you can get an rpm switch and wire it to the check engine light.

if you have launch control and your vss is unplugged, that will surely cause it to not rev past whatever your launch control point is set at. i assume you do have launch control, since you have the cel shift light, both of which are common features of turboedit. launch control only reads the vss and rpm for input, so if any of the sensors that send that data are messed up, launch control might kick in.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by downest &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So it sounds like you just need to wire the 4 wire correctly? It's weird that it was running right and then started throwing a code... </TD></TR></TABLE> What I mean by that is that mechanically, the engine ran fine. This code has yet to go away.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by downest &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I don't think the VSS would set the rev-limiter at 4k RPM, I know for a fact my speedo cable is hanging loose in the bay, and I can rev right up to redline no problem (and yes I'm getting a code for the VSS). </TD></TR></TABLE> The VSS itself wont, but on Crome if the ECU reads the Signal coming off my VSS as less then or equal to 0 mph my redline is set to 4K.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by downest &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just curious, how do you have the CEL wired for a shift light? I'm putting an A6 in my friend's HF and he wants to keep his stock HF cluster and use the shift light on it.</TD></TR></TABLE>Again, in Crome, if the RPM is equal to or greater then 6800 RPM, the CEL is told to activate and not turn off until the RPM drops below 6800.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tippyman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Lol @ that. Bump 4 u.</TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sanimalp &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you can chip most honda ecu's to make the cel act as a shift light, or you can get an rpm switch and wire it to the check engine light.

if you have launch control and your vss is unplugged, that will surely cause it to not rev past whatever your launch control point is set at. i assume you do have launch control, since you have the cel shift light, both of which are common features of turboedit. launch control only reads the vss and rpm for input, so if any of the sensors that send that data are messed up, launch control might kick in.</TD></TR></TABLE> Ok, I'm going to check the VSS cable before I leave, and make sure the distributor RPM sensor is nice and snug, but any clues yet on why wheel spin makes this an unfun place to be?

 

the wheel spin thing has me stumped.. obviously there is no electronic traction control.. the only thing that comes to mind is the ingnitor or the coil being bad, to the point where your car injects enough fuel to fire, then you get no spark, so the next rotation you inject more fuel and get spark and have a problem. no idea why that would be affected by wheel spin. if you have a helms or a honda manual, there should be troubleshooting guides for the coil and ignitor. ignitors and coils for our cars are expensive but it may solve your problem. just test them first to save yourself some money. good luck.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sanimalp &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the wheel spin thing has me stumped.. obviously there is no electronic traction control.. the only thing that comes to mind is the ingnitor or the coil being bad, to the point where your car injects enough fuel to fire, then you get no spark, so the next rotation you inject more fuel and get spark and have a problem. no idea why that would be affected by wheel spin. if you have a helms or a honda manual, there should be troubleshooting guides for the coil and ignitor. ignitors and coils for our cars are expensive but it may solve your problem. just test them first to save yourself some money. good luck.</TD></TR></TABLE> I have three known good distributors, and all have exhibited the same....issue...after the wheel spin incidents. It's just damn well annoying and is really starting to make life unbearable.

 

List of items to complete tomorrow -

Finish Wiring Harness
Check valve lash

Hopefully that will clear this up, if not, next item on the plate will be the fuel pump, a walbro isn't that expensive, and it isn't 17 years old either.

 

tps can be bad

 

ahh.. injectors. . i wonder if it is one of your injectors giving up the ghost. an injector not behaving could definitely cause the problem you are having.

i read your distributor statement at the very beginning and still managed to suggest something you already tried

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SFlCrx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">tps can be bad </TD></TR></TABLE> If TPS was going bad then it would exhibit the same symptoms in all gears.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sanimalp &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ahh.. injectors. . i wonder if it is one of your injectors giving up the ghost. an injector not behaving could definitely cause the problem you are having.

i read your distributor statement at the very beginning and still managed to suggest something you already tried </TD></TR></TABLE> I was thinking injectors too, but I don't have any spare OBD-0 injectors laying around.

 

for 4-wire o2 sensor.

obd1
A6 = heater
C14 = Signal

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crx_88_si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">for 4-wire o2 sensor.

obd1
A6 = heater
C14 = Signal</TD></TR></TABLE>
I have all that, I just didn't know what to do with the other two wires. So I fully dissected my OBD-1 harness I had lying around and know have the two same color wires on the sensor going to the correct location. Green to harness ground that goes back to ECU, and yellow black to Injector 12 volt. I'll show a picture later.

 

Ok, I patched the harness back up together....

Mis-fire deal seams to be gone...
Idle seems to be normal...
CEL Switch installed in glovebox (no more jumping the damn wire!!!)...
Oxygen heater still throwing a code. I know believe my car is racist.

AT HARNESS
Orange Wire - Heater
Grey wire - Signal
Yellow/Black - Injector 12 Volt lines
Green/White - Merges with the other Green White lines in the harness

AT OXYGEN SENSOR
Green - Heater
White - Signal
Black - Injector 12 volt lines
Black - Merges with other green white lines in the harness

 

So, I drove to NC yesterday (570 miles) and the car didn't as much as twitter.....Averaged about 34MPG which is good for cruising at 82mph@4000RPM and one window open.

And lets not forget the O2 CEL for the heater.

 

Ok, ladies and gentlemen, boys and girls, I have fixed the Oxygen sensor heating issue. For the record, this is the correct destination for the wires at the oxygen sensor plug and their destinations with the harness-
Orange/Black - Heater (ECU A6)
Grey(WHITE) - Signal (ECU D14)
Yellow/Black - Injector 12 Volt
Green/White - Ground

Oxygen Sensor Proper, to the plug
Orange/Black --&gt; Black
Grey(White) --&gt; White
Yellow/Black --&gt; Black
Green/White --&gt; Green

<FONT SIZE="3">REFERENCE</FONT>
http://www.sohchonda.com/forums/inde...howtopic=10073

 

I posted that WAY up there

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by downest &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So it sounds like you just need to wire the 4 wire correctly? It's weird that it was running right and then started throwing a code...
Your 4 wire has directions with it that tell you which colour corresponds to each function, one is signal, one is the ground, and 2 for the heater. The signal comes off your CRX harness' stock signal wire, or C16 on the OBD0 harness (D14 on OBD1). The ground, obviously, goes to a ground. The heater wires are non-polar, they will both be the same colour. One goes to A06 on the OBD1 harness, the other to an ECU power wire, I used B01 (again, OBD1 side). </TD></TR></TABLE>

I feel you though, had problems with my 4-wire as well. I used your OBD0-1 conversion (archived by now, and I don't think linked in the FAQ ), you should go back and edit it to add the sensor wiring in. Most people who are going to be using that are going to need to do the 4 wire as well.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by downest &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I posted that WAY up there </TD></TR></TABLE> I know, but the problem was with my setup, the harness side was correct, down to a T - I compared with a good OBD-1 harness and color and connection matched, but my OXYGEN sensors wires didn't match up to the plug correctly so the only thing functioning properly was the Sensor itself. Does that all make sense?

 

So you have a real OBD1 harness, and it has an O2 plug on it, which was wired wrong? I see... I'm a poor student and had to find out the hard way by running all my wires... and doing them wrong....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by downest &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So you have a real OBD1 harness, and it has an O2 plug on it, which was wired wrong? I see... I'm a poor student and had to find out the hard way by running all my wires... and doing them wrong....</TD></TR></TABLE>Well I had a spare OBD-1 harness that I was going to sell, but I started ripping into it for wire references, much easier to understand what goes where when it is in front of your eyes instead of tracing out wire diagrams all day and night. And believe me, I as well am a poor student.

 

Did your 4 wire come with a plug? Mine had 4 bare wires...

 

Mine did have a plug but all the wires were cut so I had to put them together...which it appears the first time I did wrong Reason number two why I switched from Electrical to Mechanical engineering lol