My car a 2000 Honda Civic SI 0bd1 conversion tuned with chrome.

in any gear held at the same RPM for a few seconds under load will bog down until no power is present. I can then just keep advancing the throttle and it eventually pulls through it and pulls like normal.

-I have an exhaust leak it is of a decent size located at the header collector, I am fixing this tomorrow

-The car idles fine and doesn't hick up at all.

-I replaced the plugs that looked pretty rough although they were only 5k old, after only driving on the new plugs for about 3 miles it still bogged, when pulled they were relatively black, they also had condensation on them. There is no missing coolant monitored it closely.

-fuel filter is 6k old.

-no CEL codes being thrown.

-all grounds hooked up and present

-distributor is new (less than 2k old)

-plug wires have been ohmmed out

-Car sat for 2 months with a full tank of gas while I was waiting on new transmission; during that time I started it every 4th day and let it run til at operating temperature

-still on that full tank of gas almost halfway through it; added a can of seafoam and bottle of HEET

-checked both ignition timing and timing belt all set properly

input thoughts would be great.

Thanks in advance,

Dave

 

what kind of distributer did you put in?...I have seen those ebay ones last years with no problems and I have seen them bad out of the box...it almost sounds like an ignitor problem...or its in the tune, too much fuel to low of rpms. Did it just start?

 

possibly bad map sensor, or wire. we've had cars come in where the map signal wire had a bad connection, causing the reading to fluctuate at idle to little throttle, causing it to think its in the wrong column

 

It is one of the lifetime warranty oreillys deals, I figure as prone to failure as they are repeatedly spending 300 bux everytime one fails is tiring. I have also done a few trips to dallas with the distributor and the car was not acting up prior to the tranmission swap

I will check the Map sensor; the wiring had been spliced by the previous owner. I could have bumped or pulled the wiring harness while swapping out the transmission; I checked its connection to sensor earlier. What voltages should I see out of the map sensor? i.e. closed throttle/ wide open? Is it is progressive change like the TPS?

thnx for the input good brainstorming

 

swapped MAP sensor, seemed fine for a bit then after prolonged driving it started again with the less than half throttle bogging, wide open throttle was fine. Going to clean out throttle body and IAC sensor tomorrow.

I swapped in the OBD-2 computer and it did the same thing, threw 02 codes due to running a test pipe, no other codes even during bogging.

Any other ideas?

 

I cleaned the throttle body, IACV, and adjusted the TPS .5V closed 4.7V WOT. Car runs fine in open-loop as soon as it goes into closed it is no dice below 2/3 throttle. I can simply cycle the Key and the car will run fine for a while. Any other ideas to test?

Also Ohmed my ignition coil .7-.8 primary, 16k secondary so it was all within specs.

I am going to pull out the ICM and take it to be repeatedly tested- a good 10 runs of it. Hopefully it is broken lol. I just want to find something not working right.

 

guy told me obd1 doesn't always throw a 02 sensor code if it goes bad... any ideas?

Also how do I put the car in open loop constantly?