I went out to eat with some friends yesterday. I went to park the bike, then decided to park it over next to my friend(realized I was right next to a 95 Cadillac De Ville with a handicap permit hanging from the rearview ). I tried to start the bike again and it cranked for a second, then the guages went blank and came back on again (The fuel pump would prime, all the lights lit up on the guages, etc.--just like if I were to have turned the key to the off position and back to on again). The clock and the trip odo both reset everytime. So, I go in to eat and come back out. I turn the key and it started up, though it cranked slowly. Right after it started, the guages reset yet again, but the engine kept running.

I am going to check the battery/connections today. Would this be a regulator/rectifier, as well? I have one from my previous F3 that I never used. Would this work?

Just thought I'd post before I started doing any unneccesary tests to the bike. Thanks for any inputs.

 

The RR and battery would be the first things I'd check.

I don't think the RR from an F3 would fit your F4i.

http://www.electrosport.com/el....html

On this page, it lists a different model for the F4i and F3.

 

yay for honda RR's. Can you believe I had to resort to a suzuki part to fix this issue? lol

 

Thanks, guys. That's what I suspected, and hopefully, that'll fix it.

 

Your F3 RR may work. They accomplish exactly the same thing - the only thing that might hold you back is the connections for the wiring harness. I used an RC51 RR on my '87 VFR.

There's a very nice flowchart to debug the charging system that I'll dig up - I'll post it when I get home this afternoon.

If your RR is toast just assume your battery is as well and replace it. The battery can appear to be alright, registering 12 volts when you put a multimeter on it and lose it's charge over night. It can also register 12 and at that exact same time not have enough juice to crank over the bike. A bad battery can cause an RR to go bad and a bad RR WILL cause a battery to go south. Be on the safe side and replace both.

 

"realized I was right next to a 95 Cadillac De Ville with a handicap permit hanging from the rearview " ... wtf is that has to do with anything?

 

Good idea. I'll do that.

Reading through some threads, I guess it's either OEM or Interstate that comes recommended by the majority of the people?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FR-MOB: Jerk &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">"realized I was right next to a 95 Cadillac De Ville with a handicap permit hanging from the rearview " ... wtf is that has to do with anything? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Old Caddy + Handicap Permit(usually old people) = busted up bike.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by P Nut &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Old Caddy + Handicap Permit(usually old people) = busted up bike.</TD></TR></TABLE>

only in utah

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FR-MOB: Jerk &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

only in utah </TD></TR></TABLE>

Is IL some kind of a fairy tale land where old people don't ding up your ride or cut in front of you?

 

This is the chart I was referencing earlier. Print it out, grab your multimeter, and go work on your bike

http://www.electrosport.com/Im...g.pdf

 

Thanks, man. I'll get to work.