Hey guys ...

I did the DPFI to MPFI conversion last night and this morning.
it all went well .. expect that the ECU is throwing codes left and right.
it had code 4 which went away when we didn't use the stock wiring which had to be jumped ... Now I get code 9 ... the car runs , but runs like ***. It actually sounds like a rotary with a small bridgeport.... Idle is eratic and there is like absolutly NO torque... I checked and rechecked my wiring ... it seems to be good....

I am desperate ..

I am using :
D16A6 Intake mani
91 Mugen chipped ECU ( from SI )
D16A6 dizzy ... ( from same car as ECU ) both ran....
Injector resistor from a 90 integra ( has the 4 black wires and 1 red rather then the 4 red and 1 yellow/black )

sorry to disturb

help needed ASAP

Phil

 

Little update...


I screwed around with it some more ... replaced ( once again ) the wires to the CAS .... The car DOES have torque now ... The weird idle is still there ... but that doesn't bother me so much .... it runs great now .. except for the IDLE ;(


Phil

 

Vaccum leak bud...

 

Ok ... I will check all the vacuum lines again .... Thanks

 

Maybe you left a nipple un-plugged.

 

well the car runs .... it sounds FANTASTIC ....
The ECU throws codes 1-4-14-16
1 is the O2 sens .. which makes no sense, since I didn't screw with that ..
4 is the CAS ... which "should" throw the car in Limp mode .. but doesn't ( maybe because my ECU is chipped ?? )
14 is IAT - now please explain to me like someone who has no clue .. I thought I hooked it all up right .... maybe pics would be nice ...
16 is injectors which makes no sense .. because all of them have power going through... and the car actually runs... and past like 3000 RPM it freaking screams

The Motor has a loping idle sound.... Pulsating of some sort...

I will replace all the Vacuum lines tomorrow ...

I have 2 seperate wires running from the dizzy plug to my ECU for the CAS ... it threw the code before .. and that took care of it ... but now it's back .... checked the wiring . even threw a DMM on it .. and there is current running through.

Thanks in advance

Phil

 

Bump ....

Anyone

 

make <U>sure</U> your pins are making contact to your ecu... i had trouble with my car for 2 months before i made sure and now it runs mint. it could be your ecu iv heard chipped ecu are alot of trouble.

 

Thanks ... I will try that tomorrow morning ... I cheched .. but I will double check .. I am trying to get a virgin PM6

Thanks again

Phil

 

Is the Intake manifold gasket good?

 

OMG. just check all your wiring. unless your ecu is bunk.

 

Intake manifold gasket is good. bought a new one so lol

checked and checked and rechecked the wiring

 

there should have been one plug left over.. it can fit on the iat so make sure to try that.. and honestly make sure your pins are making contact.. i couldnt beleive that that was my problem.

 

Code 4 is fixed ... pin in the ECU wasn't making contact ... figures ... lol

Code 14 and 16 persist ...

All theinjectors work .. I checked it with a DMM and I just unplugged them while the motor was running .. 1 by 1 and I could hear the a definate change in motor sound AND it started to jerk ...

The loping/pulsating idle was fixed by taking off the vacuum line to the manifold from the map .... WEIRD.

I drove it today without just flooring it .. and it does a massive herky-jerky thing ... any ideas ?

 

hm... if one of you could please post a pic of their intake manifold with the vacuum lines attached and were they go ... I confusing myself so bad now Oo

thanks for helping the noob

 

When you did the wiring did you switch the two outer wires of the TPS sensor around? Did you ensure that you didn't accidentally plug the TPS into the map sensor plug and vice versa?

 

hm... my friend did that part... I am not quite sure .. I will double check ...

Thanks

 

Yeah .. I checked that ... and neither I nor my friend touched the map sensor plug .. there was no reason to Oo... We did indeed switch the outer TPS wires around.

Here are some pics of my swap ... maybe thre is something obvious that I didn't account for . I am BY NO MEANS a professional . this was my first swap of any kind . please bear with me ..





Thanks

Phil

 

Hey guys ....

I started to screw around with the vacuum lines ... and when I have the MAP and the little thing next to it that leads to the fuel evap plugged in and start the motor .. the Idle bounces from 1000-2500 up and down ... but no check engine light .. if I then go out and pull the vacuum line of the MAP the car will settle and idle at 800-950RPM and be fine ... if I then turn the car off, and start it with no vacuum line in the MAP .. it will run good for about 20 sec . then go up to 2500 RPM and die ....

WTF ?

 

UPDATE:


Car runs good now .. found a picture of the proper vacuum line routing ... I should slap myself how I had it routed up there....
She idles at 1250 and I have to have to big line that comes in the front of the manifold pinched off .... I am gonna go and get the real size line for that ... I think it is to big .. I made it fit with different bits and pieces of line Oo.. The line I am talking about is the one right underneath the M, in PGM-FI... I have vise grips on that line, I just kept making them tighter and tighter until the pulsating idle actually stopped and the idle is pretty much steady at 1250 RPM.

Thanks for all your guys' help, but I would appreciate if someone could tell me what that line is for and where it goes . so when I go to the parts store they know what I am talking about .. Thanks alot

Phil