what's the difference on the CRs on a b16 with forged pistons and forged rods? my hp goal is 350. how much boost with a t3/t4 take to get to that goal with the CRs? reliability, dyno charts? any help would do. thanks

 

depends on alot of things. your setup to be exact. cant really give you a specific app. but obviously your going to want to run 9:1 over 10:1 if you wanna go turrbo and make those kind of numbers more reliably. but reliabilty is all in teh EMS and tune. tune tune tune

 

well with a 10:1 you can achieve the 350 goal with less boost psi but youll need atleast race gas because youll probably detonate or lean out..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IT’S ME DAVID &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well with a 10:1 you can achieve the 350 goal with less boost psi but youll need atleast race gas because youll probably detonate or lean out..</TD></TR></TABLE>

Compression ratio has nothing to do with an engine leaning out...

 

you will hit 350 with less boost in a 10:1 car, still have more low end "out of boost" power... better for a daily IMHO, you just better spend the 500 or whatever it may be in your area to get a good tune.

 

The limit of how much boost/timing advance you can run is very heat related.

Both high compression ratios and forced induction push cylinder heat upward. If you boost a car with 10:1 pistons you'll have to be sure that you have a good I/C setup, and in hot wheather you may still run into problems.

 

http://forums.evans-tuning.com...=1612

 

exactly what 98vtec posted, you lose no bottom end going 9.0:1 it's just easier to tune on pump gas (9:1) because you can control the flame front better when tuning. Most of the time, with honda's, when building a street motor ~ 9:1 is recommended by most, and 10:1 + if it's only going to see race gas

 

are you buying an engine that is already 10:1? or just wondering what parts to order?

 

well, right now i have 10:1 je's and eagle's ready to be put in. block just got back from the shop honed ready to go. for tuning i have a p28 w/ hondata s200. so, is everyone else trying to say i can't really tune with pump gas 350? i really want to see dyno charts. tuning is going to be done with shawn church at church's automotive.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TnC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well, right now i have 10:1 je's and eagle's ready to be put in. block just got back from the shop honed ready to go. for tuning i have a p28 w/ hondata s200. so, is everyone else trying to say i can't really tune with pump gas 350? i really want to see dyno charts. tuning is going to be done with shawn church at church's automotive.</TD></TR></TABLE>

oh no you can definitely hit 350 on pump gas with your setup if the tune is there. We're just saying that there is more room for error with lower compression.

 

9:1 is the less expensive route to go. 10:1, at higher power levels, means tighter control of AFRs, timing, more attention to cooling system upgrades,etc. and less of a safety margin.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IT’S ME DAVID &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well with a 10:1 you can achieve the 350 goal with less boost psi but youll need atleast race gas because youll probably detonate or lean out..</TD></TR></TABLE>

race gas for 350 wheel? at 10:1? come on now...

dude, if u already got the 10:1 pistons, just use them.

none of the stuff being said applies at the 350 whp level, u'll be fine, so long as ur tuner knows what they are doing

edit: haha @ cali 91

edit 2x: jersey still has 94 octane @ sunocos

 

hmm... so reliability is out of the question?? i might just send the 10:1s back for a trade with 9:1s. i really just want to hear from the guys running 10:1 compression and the ups and downs about it. i'm looking for this set up to last me more than a year, it's my daily driver. then just "scramble" the boost to hit my 350 goal when i need to..... cali gas is what i'm doing it with though

 

Theres a load of **** in here, 10:1 is fine its more efficient.

It is fine theres nothing detrimental to it your just going for 350 horsepower, as long as fuel and ignition are tuned properly.

 

please more info or opinions

 

10:1 is fine for boost. There are plenty of stock h22's running 300+whp on stock compression (10:1)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 98vtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">10:1 is fine for boost. There are plenty of stock h22's running 300+whp on stock compression (10:1)</TD></TR></TABLE>
no doubt, you're fine with the compression, we're just giving you more information on the subject than you probably wanted lol

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 98vtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">http://forums.evans-tuning.com...=1612</TD></TR></TABLE>

.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TnC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hmm... so reliability is out of the question?? i might just send the 10:1s back for a trade with 9:1s. i really just want to hear from the guys running 10:1 compression and the ups and downs about it. i'm looking for this set up to last me more than a year, it's my daily driver. then just "scramble" the boost to hit my 350 goal when i need to..... cali gas is what i'm doing it with though </TD></TR></TABLE>

first of all, u should be asking ur tuner instead of a web forum, altho there are smart ppl on here, u never can separate the dumbasses who repeat half-right info, vs the ppl who actually know. So ask ur tuner.

If ur still unsure, re-read the post i made just above urs, where i said if u already have the 10:1's, just keep them, its not worth the trouble to sell them and step down to 9:1, especially when ur only gonna be in the 300 whp level.

10:1 + 18psi on 93 octane = omg no issues