i just finished my turbo project on my d16y8 97 civic the turbo is a t28 and its the edelbrock kit with the turbo water cooled and oil cooled but when i startd the car the rpms went up to 3krpm and then back to idle then back to 3k and back again back and forth........so basically my vacuum is screwed up somewhere but i have no clue where or wat, possibly the iac but i dont really kno, could it be a coolant line?

 

lright well ill try to explain this better...

Im running the supplied performer x manifold from his turbo kit.. Upon re installing, the directions were very unclear where we should T in for coolant lines for the turbo.. although we have intercepted the FITV, and Im 99% sure it is alright like that.... As we start the car, it starts fine, but immediately revs to 3000+ rpms and fluctuates between 3-4K rpms pretty violently. The Throttle cable is loose, so that is not hte issue. Also the TPS has not been recalibrated (or taken of the tb) so thats not the problem. On the boost gauge, it reads 20 vaccuum and then fluctuates to 10, (which makes me believe its a big vac leak) i cannot seem to locate. Also which line would have such a large impact on vacuum? (not the brake booster, ive checkd it).Another thing that it could be is coolant bubbles. Since the IM was taken off, and some coolant has been drained.. There might be large air pockets.. But when we start the car with the rad cap off... it doesn't really seem to help and the D series does not have the bleeder screw on the thermostat...
He is running the electronic FMU ( i think thats what it is) so i dont belive that is the problem, although it posssibly could be.. im not sure..... Any help is appreciated, of what we should check first

 

(my post above)


ON TOP of the idle issue, thte TURBO is spooling somehow! Its ball bearing, and i guess the voilence of the 3-4K rpm flucation are spinning the turbine blade and it DOESNT sound good at all.. You can hear almost the blade spinning/kind of a cutting/scraping sound.. almost like there is no lubrication, although the return line is shooting out oil.(when unpluggd)



Modified by DarkBB4 at 6:48 PM 4/9/2006

 

bump

 

have you checked the oil level?

 

yes the oil level was full and that means that i am not at risk for damaging my turbo correct?b/c oil already came out of the oil drain hose soo its def circulating i hope

 

then it should be fine but that cutting scraping sound would be my main worry... have you checked the turbine for shaft play or damage? how do the fins look?

 

add coolant. make sure all you stuff is pluged in good. i was having the wierd idle, on my h22 swap. a turned my idle screww all the way to the right and unplug the map and plug it back in. now my car idles alot better, no up and down bullshit

 

the fins on the turbo are mint, the coolant isnt really that low at all, but im also wondering if it could be that the wastgate spring is turned way up or is getting stuck open, i have an internal wastegate that came mounted to the turbo but idk ?http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive/...act/index.html

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MBlake55 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Upon re installing, the directions were very unclear where we should T in for coolant lines for the turbo.. although we have intercepted the FITV, and Im 99% sure it is alright like that.... </TD></TR></TABLE>

What do you mean by that? The lines going into and out of the air assist valve are actually vacuum lines (No Civic ever used a FITV). That valve sits in the thermostat housing - we're talking about that piece, Part 24?

 

i think i figured out wat it is............i calld edelbrock and they said that on 96-98 models i had to block off holes directly above the intake ports on the flange, with 4 1/8" npt pipe plugs when putting the intake manifold onto the head has anyone ever installd the performer x manifold on a 96-98 civic??????

 

part #24 is the fuel injection air control control system 99-00 y8 only

 

An easy check for a bad IACV is to drive the car. , If the idle stabilizes once there is a load on the engine and then surges when you put the clutch in or take it out of gear its most likely the IACV. least ways that's what mine did

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sicones &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">part #24 is the fuel injection air control control system 99-00 y8 only</TD></TR></TABLE>

Agreed, which is why it's a little confusing to even read this:

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MBlake55 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">although we have intercepted the FITV</TD></TR></TABLE>

There doesn't exist a FITV on any 6th gen Civic, but the air assist valve is about as close as something can be considered as a FITV. And so knowing that 99-00 Y8's were the only ones to get it, I asked my original Q of:

"What does intercept the FITV" mean.

 

if anyone has installed a performer x manifold onto a 96-98 civic let me kno b/c it is a vacuum leak located above the intake ports and there are 4 little holes that have to be plugged above the gasket

 

I had those on a 99 intake manifold I put on my car, they're for the air injection system on 99-00 civics. helps start it on cold days. I used quik steel and plugged them up, worked fine for me

 

I also have the edelbrock performer x turbo kit, and have had the exact same problems. There are the two holes that may need to be plugged up. Use carb cleaner and spray along the top of the manifold, if the idle stabilizes or dies out the leak is definately from the top of the manifold. You may need to plug those holes, but I had to bring the manifold to a machine shop and have it planed flat. It was.003 off. I also had to check the head if it was warped or tapered, i have since reistalled and also blocked those holes and every thing ran fine.