Letting air out of water jacket on B18B's and B20B's..
Hello, i know on vtec B-series theres a little bleeder hole to let the air out of the water jacket when you're refilling the system.
whats the best way to do this if you have a non-vtec powerplant?
I take off the upper radiator hose, fill up the block with as much coolant as i can, re-connect the upper hose to the radiator, then fill up the radiator. then i let the car run and watch the bubbles come out where the radiator cap goes.
i just finished the timing belt/water pump job on my gf's CRV, but i didnt have time to watch the bubbles come out, so i just closed the system up after a couple of minutes. it will eventually bleed out of the overflow tank correct?
whats the best way to do this if you have a non-vtec powerplant?
I take off the upper radiator hose, fill up the block with as much coolant as i can, re-connect the upper hose to the radiator, then fill up the radiator. then i let the car run and watch the bubbles come out where the radiator cap goes.
i just finished the timing belt/water pump job on my gf's CRV, but i didnt have time to watch the bubbles come out, so i just closed the system up after a couple of minutes. it will eventually bleed out of the overflow tank correct?
hmm..... what u said earlier is actually the proper one. take the radiator cap out, and let the engine idle until u see no air bubble coming out, then close the rad cap. if i were u, i will try my best to spend some minutes to see the bubbles coming out.
the idea of taking the rad cap out, is because air is compressable (im not sure if that a word. i mean air can be compressed). and.... the radiator cap is a pressure cooker that has so-and-so bar until the valve pushed open by the pressure. now..... because the air is compressed, all pressure that built up will compress the air bubbles but not pushing the rad cap valve open and allow some overflowing thing. this is so bad for ur cooling system.
given the absence of pressure, water boiling temp will stay at 100C (im talking about pure water, not with coolant. with coolant, add another 20-30C max. correct me if im wrong). so, if the engine cyl sleeve reach that temp, water at the hottest part (closest to the block) will start boiling and if u boil water, steam is what u get which means.... more 'air' (i hav to refer steam as 'air', which compressable).
and... there u go. bottom line, spare some time to do things properly, safely, and correctly first time to avoid future costly problem. once ur engine block overheated and pistons are seized, say bye bye to ur engine, time for an engine swap.... good reason for ur g/f tho....
the idea of taking the rad cap out, is because air is compressable (im not sure if that a word. i mean air can be compressed). and.... the radiator cap is a pressure cooker that has so-and-so bar until the valve pushed open by the pressure. now..... because the air is compressed, all pressure that built up will compress the air bubbles but not pushing the rad cap valve open and allow some overflowing thing. this is so bad for ur cooling system.
given the absence of pressure, water boiling temp will stay at 100C (im talking about pure water, not with coolant. with coolant, add another 20-30C max. correct me if im wrong). so, if the engine cyl sleeve reach that temp, water at the hottest part (closest to the block) will start boiling and if u boil water, steam is what u get which means.... more 'air' (i hav to refer steam as 'air', which compressable).
and... there u go. bottom line, spare some time to do things properly, safely, and correctly first time to avoid future costly problem. once ur engine block overheated and pistons are seized, say bye bye to ur engine, time for an engine swap.... good reason for ur g/f tho....
Here's what I do. Start by loosening the hose clamp where the upper hose connects to the head. Then slide the upper hose off. Partially connect the upper hose by holding it on in such a way that there is a small gap between the top side of the hose and the top side of the hose nipple. Then, while holding the hose in this position, fill the system with coolant. The small gap will act as a bleeder valve, allowing air to escape. When coolant starts to come out of this small gap, the system is full. Then slide the hose all the way back on and tighten the hose clamp.
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dbailey
Honda CRX / EF Civic (1988 - 1991)
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Nov 21, 2004 12:34 PM




