I recently had the idling surging problem and cleaned out my IACV and that seemed to solve that problem but now it seems that when the car is revved to anything over 3k and it goes back down it doesn’t go down smoothly.

When you normally rev a car the idle goes up and smoothly goes back down but the idle goes up and then gets to about 1300-1200 and then suddenly drops to about 7-800.

 

yes def. could be the tps

 

sounds like a bad iac...

but it could be a bad tps..measure resistance of the tps...

 

I thought it could be the TPS and already did some research. I'm going to follow these steps in testing the TPS and see what I come out with.

http://www.integra.orcon.net.nz/tps

Could the problem be my IAC? I have already taken it off, cleaned it real well and replaced any hoses that might have look bad.

 

sometimes cleaning them doesnt do its justice...

test the tps then go from there..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by onepoint6i &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">sometimes cleaning them doesnt do its justice...

test the tps then go from there..</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'll probably be able to check the TPS tomorrow or this weekend. If the IACV goes bad or is messed up is there anyway to fix it or do I just need to get a new one?

 

a new one is your best bet..but they are quite pricey...so :shrugs:

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by onepoint6i &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">a new one is your best bet..but they are quite pricey...so :shrugs:</TD></TR></TABLE>

EEK, I'll just try and see if fixing the TPS will work and if it doesnt then good thing I still have the CRX to steal parts from since that engine is trash.

Thansk for the help onepoint6i.

 

no prob, keep us updated...

 

If you're in need of a TPS lemme know. I have three on ebay right now. They all come from MPFI engines.

They're used, but they have no dead spots on them, so they should work without a problem.

Oh, and you can't buy a TPS at the dealership. Stupid honda.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SiMateoAko &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you're in need of a TPS lemme know. I have three on ebay right now. They all come from MPFI engines.

They're used, but they have no dead spots on them, so they should work without a problem.

Oh, and you can't buy a TPS at the dealership. Stupid honda.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

bump for a good price in tps's

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SiMateoAko &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you're in need of a TPS lemme know. I have three on ebay right now. They all come from MPFI engines.

They're used, but they have no dead spots on them, so they should work without a problem.

Oh, and you can't buy a TPS at the dealership. Stupid honda.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I figured out that you have to buy the whole throttle body for the car if your TPS went a long time ago my girlfriends 1983 Accord's TPS went out and I called Honda for a replacement, big shock.

I'll keep everybody posted on what happeds and SiMateoAko thanks for the offer and I'll let you know if I need one.

 

UPDATE: I tested the TPS and put the voltmeter on the green and red wires and got a reading of .65, isn't the reading suppose to be about .45?

I'm going to use my dremel and see if can cut a notch in the rivet and adjust the sensor.

 

Have you tried checking for vauum leaks yet? Bleeding air out of the coolant?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by drachir &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Have you tried checking for vauum leaks yet? Bleeding air out of the coolant? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes I have checked for leaks and replaced any hoses/clamps that needed to be replaced. I have also bleed the coolant and it is working fine with no air, check it pretty regularly.

I tried to adjust the TPS by making a notch in the rivet but it didn't seem to work very well. Can I just cut out the rivets on the TPS and use screws instead or is it a better idea to keep them?

 

u should check ur cel's before cutting anything to make sure it is the tps

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SFlCrx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">u should check ur cel's before cutting anything to make sure it is the tps</TD></TR></TABLE>

You dont always get a CEL when your tps is outta whack. Mine was WAY off and my car ran like **** but i didnt get any CEL's. I adjusted the tps and it ran like a charm.

To the OP...its not that hard to notch the rivets to adjust it. Just make sure that you make the notch directly i the center. If not then youll prolly break the rivet trying to get it out. But yes, you can use little bolts to hold it in.

And .65 is WAY off. Im surprised your car isnt bucking and stalling and sputtering all the time. It should be ~.45v at idle and ~4.5v at WOT. Good luck man

 

Thanks for the info but I think the problem went away when the camshaft pulley broke off. I'm not sure why it went away and haven't really had a chance to test drive it since I still need to replace the front engine seal before any real testing is done.