issue with code 1( oxygen sensor)
its weird. my car drives normal on roads but when i go on freeways or highways for a period of time ( 15+ minutes) my check engine lights pops up and shows a code 1. i would turn my engine off and turn it back on and it ll go away but after another 15+ minutes it ll pop back up. i checked my o2 sensor and its connected tight. anyone ever experienced this ? any recommendations? thanks alot.
Replace your o2 sensor and you should be ok. That is very common for a bad o2 too act like you described so just replace it w/ a new one.
but from what your describing. you need a new o2 sensor
obd0 o2 sensors do not have a heater like the 4 or 5 wire of latter years..
so the car cannot detect if your o2 sensor is bad or not until the car is warm enough..
ie 15 mins of highway, you turn your car off an on and the time starts again..
have you been noticing your gas mileage go down?
obd0 o2 sensors do not have a heater like the 4 or 5 wire of latter years..
so the car cannot detect if your o2 sensor is bad or not until the car is warm enough..
ie 15 mins of highway, you turn your car off an on and the time starts again..
have you been noticing your gas mileage go down?
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Outsane »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">have you been noticing your gas mileage go down? </TD></TR></TABLE>
its still the same. right now i got 170 miles and still have half a tank. thats about regular for me. thanks for the info
its still the same. right now i got 170 miles and still have half a tank. thats about regular for me. thanks for the info
hey guys this is my first post here. I just bought a 90 crx hf with a si motor I was getting code 1 and a chug-chug at highway speed so I replaced the O2 sensor and it fixed it for about 10 minutes and then it started again.
Any help would be very much appreciated!!
Any help would be very much appreciated!!
my apologies for reviving this somewhat old thread, but anyway...
I had this same issue, put in a brand new O2 sensor, no dice. It turned out to be the ground connected to the ecu (at the thermostat) wasn't tight enough, I was getting a good .5 voltage drop, turning a slightly rich running engine into what the computer interpreted as an engine running really really lean. So check your wiring, especially the ground. Either follow the instructions that the shop manual gives you, or do it this way: Get your car nice and warm, then as its idling pull out the ol' multimeter and test the voltage at the o2 sensor (ground to the battery), and then test it at the ecu (signal = C16, ground=A18) and then test at the ecu again but through a different ground, like a bolt on the frame (do it quick so your o2 sensor doesnt cool off too much). If the voltage is different at the sensor, your signal wire is bad; if it's different at the A18 ground, your ground is bad. If they're all the same... well... i guess the only culprit could be a bad ecu (as the shop manual dictates)
Hope that helps (if help is still necessary...)
Modified by mrhaasguy at 2:34 PM 8/15/2006
I had this same issue, put in a brand new O2 sensor, no dice. It turned out to be the ground connected to the ecu (at the thermostat) wasn't tight enough, I was getting a good .5 voltage drop, turning a slightly rich running engine into what the computer interpreted as an engine running really really lean. So check your wiring, especially the ground. Either follow the instructions that the shop manual gives you, or do it this way: Get your car nice and warm, then as its idling pull out the ol' multimeter and test the voltage at the o2 sensor (ground to the battery), and then test it at the ecu (signal = C16, ground=A18) and then test at the ecu again but through a different ground, like a bolt on the frame (do it quick so your o2 sensor doesnt cool off too much). If the voltage is different at the sensor, your signal wire is bad; if it's different at the A18 ground, your ground is bad. If they're all the same... well... i guess the only culprit could be a bad ecu (as the shop manual dictates)
Hope that helps (if help is still necessary...)
Modified by mrhaasguy at 2:34 PM 8/15/2006
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