I am putting my omni full coilovers on this sunday. Is there anything i have to watch out for or any special tools i should have ready for when i do this? And how long should it take with a little better than average car experience.

 

Bump

 

its pretty easy.. just have a friend help you..
there pretty much bolt in.. just get an alightment afterward.

dont take out the middle bolt on stock dampers. dont cut bump stops.

 

you dont need an alignment if you arent slamming the car. and you have full coils so disregard his bumpstop comment.

but you should cut them when doing regular sleeve springs.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dfoxengr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you dont need an alignment if you arent slamming the car. and you have full coils so disregard his bumpstop comment.

but you should cut them when doing regular sleeve springs.</TD></TR></TABLE>
You will always need an alignment after performing any work to the car that results in a change in ride height.
A decent Mechanic's Toolset from Craftsman should cover your needs during this installation, along spanner wrenches (typically supplied) to perform adjustments to the height. Always use jackstands, and an extra set of hands won't hurt.
If its a NE car, lots of penetrating oil (liquid wrench, PB blaster, etc) and lots of heat (read: torch) work well to deal with seized up bolts, and Anti-seize will do wonders for future installations/removal/changes.
Complete installation instructions, including the re-setting of bushings, can be found here.

 

your alignment changes whenever you change ride height.

 

you dont "need" it though unless youre looking for the best performance. itll be fine without it. especially since omnis dont lower a ton.

 

Unless you want the toe to eat away at your tires, then yes you do need an alignment. Even the slightest toe will be enough to put your tires at a constant slip angle, which is going to wear the tires fast.
At the very least, zero'd out toe is necessary. Negative camber gained from lowering the car will be beneficial to handling, and can be typically left as-is if the car is not lowered too excessively.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dfoxengr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you dont "need" it though unless youre looking for the best performance. itll be fine without it. especially since omnis dont lower a ton.</TD></TR></TABLE>

No, you definitely, 150% abso-freaking-lutely need to have an alignment done after changing your ride height. Period.

This is why there's so many 'what camber kit should I get' threads.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dfoxengr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you dont "need" it though unless youre looking for the best performance. itll be fine without it. especially since omnis dont lower a ton.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Just hush do you even know what you are talking about and you sell suspension...


AS stated before you will absoultuy need an aligment, I raided my car half and inch when I threarded sleeves and my toe was way off after I was done and so were my tires shortly there after.

 

This is the problem ... i cant find any body that will put my omni front and rear camber kit on and align it. I tried honda, pepboys, and some import shops.

 

One word: laziness. Just extra work for them. But if you shop around, there has to be a shop that will take your money.

 

If i get a torque wrench, then it shouldnt be that hard right? And if i put them on then any place should align them.


Modified by AllstockSIke at 12:23 AM 2/24/2006

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AllstockSIke &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Is there anything i have to watch out for</TD></TR></TABLE>

Watch out for this son of a bitch

Bolt head broke on me on both sides Had to take it to a autoshop and he had to heat it up and some how get it out. Took him 45 minutes each time

 

Yea thats what im affraid of. I ordered 6 lca bolts just incase they snap.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AllstockSIke &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yea thats what im affraid of. I ordered 6 lca bolts just incase they snap.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Cheers to you! No one EVER does this. Then they make a post on here saying, "snapped my LCA bolts... now what@#$@#?"

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BLUTO &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Watch out for this son of a bitch

Bolt head broke on me on both sides Had to take it to a autoshop and he had to heat it up and some how get it out. Took him 45 minutes each time </TD></TR></TABLE>

Im stuck right now at these bolts. I've tried 2 impacts and they wont budge. Does anyone know if there are threads in the control arm or if its just the one side on the shock? any suggestions are more than welcome, car has been on jackstands for a few days now

 

The bushing in the control arm is not threaded. The section of the bolt that passes through the bushing is also not threaded. But there is a very good chance that the bolt is simply seized up inside the bushing, due to corrosion. Thats what makes them difficult to get out.
My suggestion: get a Sawzall and cut on either side of the bolt, between the bushing and the trailing arm. Then simply bust out the remainder of the bolt inside the trailing arm holes, drop out the LCA, and put in a new one.