Leak Down results need some advice.
here are the results compared to compression results
1. 220 1-2% warm 5-6% cold
2. 215 1-2% warm 3-4% cold
3. 215 7-8% warm 14-15% cold
4. 205 1-2% warm 3-4% cold
1 quart per 500 miles oil consumption. seemed that all the air escaping was rings.
1. 220 1-2% warm 5-6% cold
2. 215 1-2% warm 3-4% cold
3. 215 7-8% warm 14-15% cold
4. 205 1-2% warm 3-4% cold
1 quart per 500 miles oil consumption. seemed that all the air escaping was rings.
IMO, i would leave it as is. With numbers as such you arent going to notice a difference in driving. Oil consumption yes, performance i really dont think so.
This may or may not apply to your car, Josh, but it's a similar situation:
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1530646
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1530646
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by warwagon »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">here are the results compared to compression results
1. 220 1-2% warm 5-6% cold
2. 215 1-2% warm 3-4% cold
3. 215 7-8% warm 14-15% cold
4. 205 1-2% warm 3-4% cold
1 quart per 500 miles oil consumption. seemed that all the air escaping was rings.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Are you sure you heard air escaping at the rings? I'd take a closer look at your valve seals.
1. 220 1-2% warm 5-6% cold
2. 215 1-2% warm 3-4% cold
3. 215 7-8% warm 14-15% cold
4. 205 1-2% warm 3-4% cold
1 quart per 500 miles oil consumption. seemed that all the air escaping was rings.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Are you sure you heard air escaping at the rings? I'd take a closer look at your valve seals.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jon D »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">IMO, i would leave it as is. With numbers as such you arent going to notice a difference in driving. Oil consumption yes, performance i really dont think so. </TD></TR></TABLE>
yeah but i am sick of the nastyness on my rear end and the constant hassle of putting more oil in it all the time
yeah but i am sick of the nastyness on my rear end and the constant hassle of putting more oil in it all the time
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ebelp »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">This may or may not apply to your car, Josh, but it's a similar situation:
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1530646</TD></TR></TABLE>
after reading through that thread i think i might pull my header back tonight and check to see if the valve seals are dripping into the cylinders
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1530646</TD></TR></TABLE>
after reading through that thread i think i might pull my header back tonight and check to see if the valve seals are dripping into the cylinders
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ebelp »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">This may or may not apply to your car, Josh, but it's a similar situation:
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1530646</TD></TR></TABLE>
Beat me to it
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1530646</TD></TR></TABLE>
Beat me to it
If it is the valve seals and you happen to change them yourself (easy), you will receive two different colors from Honda. The rule of thumb is, is that the dark color (dirty color) goes with exhaust side and the light grey ones will go on the intake side.
Must always remember Leakdown does NOT test your oil ring seal, just compression for the most part.
You more than likely wont lose that much oil through valve stem. Possibly a cracked guide, but more than likely just a case of stuck oil ring.
-sander
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Haleiwa-Brando »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If it is the valve seals and you happen to change them yourself (easy), you will receive two different colors from Honda. The rule of thumb is, is that the dark color (dirty color) goes with exhaust side and the light grey ones will go on the intake side.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Also, it actually says on the valve stem which is intake and which is exhaust. it says "IN" and "EX" on respective seals.
You more than likely wont lose that much oil through valve stem. Possibly a cracked guide, but more than likely just a case of stuck oil ring.
-sander
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Haleiwa-Brando »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If it is the valve seals and you happen to change them yourself (easy), you will receive two different colors from Honda. The rule of thumb is, is that the dark color (dirty color) goes with exhaust side and the light grey ones will go on the intake side.
</TD></TR></TABLE>Also, it actually says on the valve stem which is intake and which is exhaust. it says "IN" and "EX" on respective seals.
I recently did maintenance on my newly purchased R and noticed some wear on the cams (original itr camshafts). So I did a compression test and found numbers between 175 to 185. Could worn cams cause loss in compression or could it possibly be the valve seals or something else? Thanks.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by shotenITR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I recently did maintenance on my newly purchased R and noticed some wear on the cams (original itr camshafts). So I did a compression test and found numbers between 175 to 185. Could worn cams cause loss in compression or could it possibly be the valve seals or something else? Thanks.</TD></TR></TABLE>
How can you tell the cams are worn?
How can you tell the cams are worn?
I'll post a pic when I get home from work. The lobes are not as "sharp" or "pointed" as new cams. They look more rounded out. Does anyone know if worn cams will cause a drop in compression? Or should I try replacing the seals?
*EDIT: I think I found my answer.....probably not valve seals since there is no black smoke, or big oil consumption.
Modified by shotenITR at 11:48 AM 2/22/2006
*EDIT: I think I found my answer.....probably not valve seals since there is no black smoke, or big oil consumption.
Modified by shotenITR at 11:48 AM 2/22/2006
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by shotenITR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I recently did maintenance on my newly purchased R and noticed some wear on the cams (original itr camshafts). So I did a compression test and found numbers between 175 to 185. Could worn cams cause loss in compression or could it possibly be the valve seals or something else? Thanks.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Did you do the compression check with the throttle opened?? I got those similar #'s w/ out holding down the accelerator...
Did you do the compression check with the throttle opened?? I got those similar #'s w/ out holding down the accelerator...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ITR908 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Did you do the compression check with the throttle opened?? I got those similar #'s w/ out holding down the accelerator...
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I don't know actually. I had a buddy turn the motor over while i was at the engine watching the gauge. I'll try it again today. Someone also suggested to do a "wet" compression test. How much oil should be dropped in? Thanks.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by warwagon »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
after reading through that thread i think i might pull my header back tonight and check to see if the valve seals are dripping into the cylinders</TD></TR></TABLE>
warwagon did you figure out what is causing oil to burn? Piston or valve seals?
Did you do the compression check with the throttle opened?? I got those similar #'s w/ out holding down the accelerator...
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I don't know actually. I had a buddy turn the motor over while i was at the engine watching the gauge. I'll try it again today. Someone also suggested to do a "wet" compression test. How much oil should be dropped in? Thanks.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by warwagon »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
after reading through that thread i think i might pull my header back tonight and check to see if the valve seals are dripping into the cylinders</TD></TR></TABLE>
warwagon did you figure out what is causing oil to burn? Piston or valve seals?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by warwagon »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
after reading through that thread i think i might pull my header back tonight and check to see if the valve seals are dripping into the cylinders</TD></TR></TABLE>
That would be a good start.
after reading through that thread i think i might pull my header back tonight and check to see if the valve seals are dripping into the cylinders</TD></TR></TABLE>
That would be a good start.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by shotenITR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
warwagon did you figure out what is causing oil to burn? Piston or valve seals?</TD></TR></TABLE>
exhaust ports were dry... leakdown is puffing up through the dipstick tube... so next weekend i;ll be doing a quick ring job
warwagon did you figure out what is causing oil to burn? Piston or valve seals?</TD></TR></TABLE>
exhaust ports were dry... leakdown is puffing up through the dipstick tube... so next weekend i;ll be doing a quick ring job
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ITR908 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Did you do the compression check with the throttle opened?? I got those similar #'s w/ out holding down the accelerator...</TD></TR></TABLE>
*PHEW....I tried a different gauge tonight and my compression is within acceptable range....the last time I did the compression I used a brand new $50 set from Sears (craftsman brand)....I tried my buddy's tester tonight and my numbers were way higher...so to prove that they were correct numbers (and that my craftsman gauge was defective)....I went out and bought two other compression testers...to make a long story short....I found out my gauge was bad and my compression is all between 215 - 235.....what a relief...
*PHEW....I tried a different gauge tonight and my compression is within acceptable range....the last time I did the compression I used a brand new $50 set from Sears (craftsman brand)....I tried my buddy's tester tonight and my numbers were way higher...so to prove that they were correct numbers (and that my craftsman gauge was defective)....I went out and bought two other compression testers...to make a long story short....I found out my gauge was bad and my compression is all between 215 - 235.....what a relief...
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