After I relocated the battery to the hatch, flipped the key and all the lights/radio came on. I went to start it and nothing, now I don't have any power at all. My biggest mistake is that I did not run an inline fuse, figured I'd wait till tomorrow to buy one which was stupid. Trying to figured what I fucked up, I checked the main big fuses under the hood, none of them look bad. Any suggestions, possibly burnt out the main relay or something else? Btw, I'll be installing a fuse tonight after work, just need to figure out what went wrong first.

 

Good ground ?

 

make sure you have a good ground in the hatch. starter needs to have a good ground as does your fuse box. then make sure your giving the fuse box and starter some power as well. what gauge wiring are you using? i think a 2 gauge is the minimum you should be using

 

im using 2 gauge and im having the same problem, i just think my connection for the starter wire isnt good

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by beyondspecs_jamar &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">make sure you have a good ground in the hatch. starter needs to have a good ground as does your fuse box. then make sure your giving the fuse box and starter some power as well. what gauge wiring are you using? i think a 2 gauge is the minimum you should be using</TD></TR></TABLE> sounds good except 4 gauge works fine...4 gauge is the lowest you should go

 

Do you have any pics of the install?
I don't have an inline fuse for mine, yes I know I should, but cars being scrapped now. It's run for over a year no problem.
Here are a few pics of mine-
http://liam821.com/pix/friends...g.jpg
http://liam821.com/pix/friends...g.jpg
Ground for battery, it's 2 gauge
http://liam821.com/pix/friends...g.jpg
Rockfrod distribution block to connect the 2 gauge power and the starter and original power wire to gether.
http://liam821.com/pix/friends...g.jpg
Battery relocated w/ batt. box bolted down

 

this is my relocation setup and no problems just cleaned the grounding spot down to bare metal... i used 0/0 awg wire, your ground is suppose to be bigger than your power wire but i couldint find anything bigger than what i got, but this ground spot works very well and it cranks no prob
gota love the optima battery i got for $45 also

 

Your ground is bad. Sand down the connection to bare metal and put vaseline between the wire and the car, then clamp it down. This way, the vaseline will make an airtight seal so the metal of the contact points can't corrode. I had this problem too, exactly the same thing, everything turned on and then died with the starter.

 

Thanks for all the responses. It was a bad ground after all. I'm running 2 gauge for the power to the starter and the fuse box. Then I used two 4 gauge wires for grounds at different grounding points on the rear wall of the hatch. Everything works great now. How many of you are running an inline fuse with your setup and what's the rating on it, ie 100 amps?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hondacivic4g &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Do you have any pics of the install?
I don't have an inline fuse for mine, yes I know I should, but cars being scrapped now. It's run for over a year no problem.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Where did you get your battery box from, and how much? Btw, I like the distribution block up front, I think I'll do that with mine. I ended up soldering all of it together where the cables meet instead, ****** took forever even with a blow torch.

 

You can get a plastic battery box at Autozone or something, 12 bucks. Summit sells nicer metal ones. You should really have an inline fuse within 12" of the battery positive.

 

I got my Batt. Box from a Marine/Boat shop. My battery is a gell cell Wesco Miata replacement battery. It wieghs either 25 lbs. So I needed a small box for the battery. It's run strong for over a year and I have 2 amps and a sub running off it. Think name of the shop was "Viking Boat shop", can't remember, it's in Annapolis,MD.
Here's a link to the battery and specs http://www.westcobattery.com/miata.html

 

So what should the inline fuse (within a foot of the positive wire from the battery) be? Amperage = ?

How did you guys run your wires? Lift up the side panels? Never done it before, pics/link to thread?

 

Lift up the passenger side panel near the door, there are clips there that hold 2 ga perfectly. You should use a 100 amp fuse.