Modified by MadCityLude at 1:44 PM 6/23/2006

 

Swap out to a manual timing belt tensioner, replace the watter pump, Seals, and head gasket (if you are not going to be boosting u may waunt to look into a thinner one, Commetic)

It can be a little intimidating if it is your first time And the crank gurddle can be a snood little biatch. But i will let someone who is less likely to forget to tell you about the inportant things give you the details.

I like the clevite77 bearings .

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NewOrleansH22 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Swap out to a manual timing belt tensioner, replace the watter pump, Seals, and head gasket (if you are not going to be boosting u may waunt to look into a thinner one, Commetic)

It can be a little intimidating if it is your first time And the crank gurddle can be a snood little biatch. But i will let someone who is less likely to forget to tell you about the inportant things give you the details.

I like the clevite77 bearings .</TD></TR></TABLE>

Already did manual swap and new belt, and new water pump less than 7k miles ago.

I was speaking more internal stuff! Thanks though!!

clevite77 bearings!! I will look into those!!

Any other thoughts! Thanks in advance!

 

Well it seems that you and i may have the same problem. Imma try to keep tabs on the info you find out, so i can figure out forsure if im in the same boat as you.

 

This doesn't actually seem like it will be too bad, as long as there isn't worse than expected damage inside!

 

Use OEM bearings, no reason to change.

Got a crank pulley holder ? All necessary tools for a valve adjustment ?

New stuff you most likely will need are:

headgasket, cam seals, IM gasket, header gasket, hondabond, have the head checked for warpage and put new seals in it while its off ( why not ? ) might need a few extras here and there depending on what you break or damage while removing everything.

Watch out for that damn knock sensor. Ive seen 3 people break that thing while removing a head ( for some odd reason )

If you are going to have the motor completly torn down, may as well opt for some fresh rings and have yourself a nice rebuild. Maybe go for some Type S pistons if you want N/A.

 

Actually, I was planning to just have the crank ground, and replace all the bearings, if everything else is OK.

Is that not advised? Should I do a complete rebuild?

 

if you know the rings are good and are happy with them, no reason to replace them.

If you are unsure of their condition or just want to be safe and not have to worry about it, replace them.

I personally would be a little weary of an imported JDM motor that is supposed to have between 30K-50K and have no idea how it was driven or how it was maintained. If you did a compression test before you spun the bearing and saw good results, skip it.

And that avatar is awesome. internet find or a gf ?

 

Avatar - internet!

Yea I just did compression and leadown tests about 500 miles ago.

Copression was 195-205 on all 4 - without wide open throttle
Leakdown - I had a mechanic do and all I know is it was less than 9%
(if it had been 10% or more he would have informed me)
Hasn't burned any oil as long as I have owned it!

So do you think it is safe to skip the complete rebuild?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MadCityLude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So do you think it is safe to skip the complete rebuild?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Sure it's safe. I think the suggestions you are getting are because you will already have the engine prettymuch torn down so if you ever plan on doing other modifications now is the time.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MadCityLude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Actually, I was planning to just have the crank ground, and replace all the bearings, if everything else is OK.

Is that not advised? Should I do a complete rebuild?</TD></TR></TABLE>


Derek -

Have your crank miked (sp?) and see if you need to have it reground first. If you dont, then just get it micropolished. I'd def. get it balanced, and replace the pistons to Type-S and replace the rings and bearing with OEM parts. Double check your piston rods to make sure you didn't slightly bend one when you almost hydrolocked your car! You should be able to do it yourself though with a nice torque wrench then. Good luck and let me know if you have any more questions!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by aRaBiAn RiCe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


Derek -

Have your crank miked (sp?) and see if you need to have it reground first. If you dont, then just get it micropolished. I'd def. get it balanced, and replace the pistons to Type-S and replace the rings and bearing with OEM parts. Double check your piston rods to make sure you didn't slightly bend one when you almost hydrolocked your car! You should be able to do it yourself though with a nice torque wrench then. Good luck and let me know if you have any more questions!</TD></TR></TABLE>

I think I will do that, but I will prolly go ahead and replace the rods too!

What is (sp?)

Should I get OEM bearings or something better?