I have the A6 head off my A6 block right now, fixing a burnt valve. I had a Z6 head on for a while, and when I pulled the Z6 head off to put on the A6, I noticed that cylinder 2 (same as burnt valve) was much darker looking than others.

So I am thinking of doing the rings as long as the head is off. Is it possible with the block in the car? Or a really big pain?

Also, is it possible the burnt valve damaged the rings? I drove for a while until I figured out it was a burnt valve, and with the Z6 head it burned more oil than I expected.

-Simon

 

It's possible to do the rings while the motor is still in the car. Just drop the oil pan and unbolt the rod caps and pop the pistons out the top.

 

The burnt valve won't hurt your rings. Make sure when you take the rod end of the car you mark one side of the rod and the rod end, they must go on the same way.
good luck

 

Not too hard to do in-car. Make sure you have all the tools and put the rings on right. It's also a hell of a lot easier when you have a helper, so one of you can be under the car, the other above it. Also make sure you hone the cylinders, and do a good job cleaning up all the crap that the hone makes.

 

do it!!!!those a6's love to eat oil..

its not hard at all...

 

OK, so I think I am going to go for it. What tools will I need? My Helm's says I need a 'bottle brush' style hone, is this required or can I use another style? And a ring compressor, what type of compressor works well?

Thanks...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by shbrown &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">OK, so I think I am going to go for it. What tools will I need? My Helm's says I need a 'bottle brush' style hone, is this required or can I use another style? And a ring compressor, what type of compressor works well?

Thanks...</TD></TR></TABLE>

you only need to hone if there are no cross hatches....per honda..if there is just install new rings and go...

you could use a bottle style hone or other, just make sure you have the right grit..about 400 or go by the manual...

ring compressor? i would use an ARP style compressor...but they are rather pricey if you're only gonna use it this once....
I've used an auto zone style compressor several times..it works well when its new...its only about ten bucks...

 

IMO, the bottle brush hones are lame. Get a regular 3-stone one, NAPA carries them, so does Sears. There are a couple of types of ring compressors, I got the standard one, but it's kind of a pain in the *** to use, make sure you get it tight around the piston. Here are mine, the hone and compressor on the left top:





Sorry the pic is huge, I don't know how to resize, someone let me know how and I'll edit it.

 

I have heard that style of ring compressor is a PITA. Is the scissor style any better? What is the ARP style compressor?

Thanks!

 

Never hone, and read why

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1085174

Make sure when you tighten the bolts down, make sure the flywheel is jacked up to relieve pressure.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 90blackcrx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Never hone, and read why

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1085174

Make sure when you tighten the bolts down, make sure the flywheel is jacked up to relieve pressure.</TD></TR></TABLE>

It sepecificly states, "If the block is to be re-used, hone the cylinders and remeasure the bores."

Hone, then check tolerences.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by UltimX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

It sepecificly states, "If the block is to be re-used, hone the cylinders and remeasure the bores."

Hone, then check tolerences.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Reread the thread again. I should of stated, never do a hone job yourself, unless you have the $350 Honda hone

 

wow that ring compressor looks the same as my buddys we got it for 10 bucks after tax

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by shbrown &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have heard that style of ring compressor is a PITA. Is the scissor style any better? What is the ARP style compressor?

Thanks!</TD></TR></TABLE>

http://www.tunerschoice.com/pr...FROOG

 

OK, there seems to be differing opinions on the hone. I looked at the cylinder walls, and I can still see honing marks.
If I do hone it myself, I will either be using a cheap hone I buy, or renting one. So is it better that I just leave them alone if these are my only options?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by shbrown &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">OK, there seems to be differing opinions on the hone. I looked at the cylinder walls, and I can still see honing marks.
If I do hone it myself, I will either be using a cheap hone I buy, or renting one. So is it better that I just leave them alone if these are my only options?</TD></TR></TABLE>

There is no way you will be in spec with a cheap hone.

 

I've rebuilt a lot of motors, and almost always honed them, with no problems at all. The point of honing lightly on a rebuild is to "break the glaze", you aren't trying to remove material, just make it easier for the new rings to have oil.

 

perfectly stated

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by downest &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I've rebuilt a lot of motors, and almost always honed them, with no problems at all. The point of honing lightly on a rebuild is to "break the glaze", you aren't trying to remove material, just make it easier for the new rings to have oil. </TD></TR></TABLE>

As long as you don't go over board thats fine, but then you're really just breaking the glaze on the cylinder walls, not honing.

All I'm saying is if you hone it at home, you will never get in the helms spec.