alright so ive been slutting myself hard on HT tryin to figure out how come my car is smoking...

finally got around to doin a comp test again (last one yielded 175 across during tuning... replaced the head since then with y8 HG and ARP's due to what i thought was a blown head gasket.. LOTS OF white smoke, the stocker HG looked fine tho)

anyways this time around i got 175/175/175/130... boo-urns
totally looks like blown rings or a cracked sleve.. heres a vid of the smoke show..

http://tinypic.com/player.php?v=i1xxro&s=2 <---- LOL

can anyone think of any head related issues that would cause smoke AND low comp on a single piston? maybe a burnt valve AND faulty valve seal? i did throw a used A6 head on the mill, only replacing the valve seals, the guides seemed a bit sloppy but not too bad

this car owned me so bad... im pretty sure the head is sound, but im just hoping and preying its the head not the block..

how could i have popped this bitch in less than a month at 7psi? fuel tune is MINT, 14.7 in vac and 12.5 in boost... o2 disabled...
I am using the timing maps from "ng60brenttestricher.bin", from the xenocron basemap selection.
ran the car open atmosphere at the VC and black box on back of block for the majority of the time the car was on the road.

i wanted to boost my d15b2 before my SOHC ZC to learn something and hopfully not blow up a good engine, but i have no idea why the d15 went! lol
any insight from people who have blown their **** up as to why it happened and how to remedy it would be kick ***

now... to go and rape 3 cyls at 14psi


Modified by welfarepc at 3:53 PM 10/6/2007

 

Put a teaspoon of oil down the spark plug hole and then repeat the test. If the compression goes up, then it's the rings.

 

Thanks for helping out.

I answered his other post and was trying to remember that test.

 

12.5 is a little lean for boost IMO...

 

might ha had some moderat detonation. 11.5 is usually closer to what people are usually comfortable with

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B20luda &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">12.5 is a little lean for boost IMO...</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah, but its also a d15, who knows how great it was before boosting. (any previous compression test?)

I wouldn't worry about it, get a new block and tune it instead of a relying on someones basemap. (try running a tad richer)

 

175 across before boost and shortly after boosting. motor had 200km on it, not too bad. didnt smoke either... i guess im just an inexperienced tuner.. learning still

i would love to dyno tune the car, but that means obd1 swap... money money... TE and chipped PM6 gotta make due... (do have an LC-1 as well, might try messing with the data logging options..)

any practical tips to detect detonation? cant be reading the plugs on the side of the road hehe


On a side note: The car runs very very well and handles the 14psi im throwing at it like a champ, just smokes soo bad!! haha im tryin to get some ripper vids of the d15b2 before its dead

 

http://v2.tinypic.com/player.swf?file=15hxwqw&s=2

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by welfarepc &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
i would love to dyno tune the car, but that means obd1 swap... money money... TE and chipped PM6 gotta make due... (do have an LC-1 as well, might try messing with the data logging options..)
</TD></TR></TABLE>
so you would rather keep replacing motors than spend money on actual tuning?

 

i think im gonna pick replacing motors right now, especially since its easy to do, and i have extras...
might as well keep learning and not be a rich *** boy paying to play

i have only spent like $1300 on the car, including purchasing it, turboing it... everything

come to think about it, i wish i could afford tuning

heres another vid...

http://tinypic.com/player.php?v=imt0yb&s=2

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by welfarepc &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">)

any practical tips to detect detonation? cant be reading the plugs on the side of the road hehe


</TD></TR></TABLE>

Do a full pull, (max psi to redline) cut the ignition at the top of the pull, pull over and check the plugs.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by welfarepc &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> might as well keep learning and not be a rich *** boy paying to play</TD></TR></TABLE>

i payed 250$ for a tune on the dyno and squeezed out about 35whp more than the street tune i did. its a good way to make more power and know you are free of detonation.

definitely the best investment so far.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by egriffith45 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

i payed 250$ for a tune on the dyno and squeezed out about 35whp more than the street tune i did. its a good way to make more power and know you are free of detonation.

definitely the best investment so far.</TD></TR></TABLE>

But i can understand his side. I built my own setup and tuned my own. Sure i bet a "tuner" could get more power, i enjoy the challenge, its half the fun.

 

That's pretty dumb bud to keep blowin motors out of your *** and all of those long *** nights swappin them out.

Me I would just pay the darn $300 bones and get it tuned. Then sell your spare motors for money to invest in the motor you have running.

Not tuning a forced induction motor is just completely dumb. Why dont you just crank the boost to 40psi while your at it.

**** you got other motors dude.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by almostboostedgsr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That's pretty dumb bud to keep blowin motors out of your *** and all of those long *** nights swappin them out.

Me I would just pay the darn $300 bones and get it tuned. Then sell your spare motors for money to invest in the motor you have running.

Not tuning a forced induction motor is just completely dumb. Why dont you just crank the boost to 40psi while your at it.

**** you got other motors dude. </TD></TR></TABLE>

your pretty off topic buddy... but thanks for the contribution

i found it really exciting today blowing the **** out of the mill! I was tryin to get some good ripper vids and snapped a rod... only bad part was having to get it towed. thank god for AAA

not tuned? think again and read the entire post... not tuned perfectly, maybe

long nights doing swaps? how about 2 afternoons tops

$300 for tuning? how about $250 an hour, plus OBD1 swap (ECU, IM, harness, etc)
sounds like a lot more than $300... and this my friend, is a budget build

you dont learn anything when someone else does it for you. next time, ill have better toys

 

Take a leakdown test, that way you can see if the comp leak is from your pistonrings/cyl walls/Headgasket or valves

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by atec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Take a leakdown test, that way you can see if the comp leak is from your pistonrings/cyl walls/Headgasket or valves</TD></TR></TABLE>
I think it's a little late for that if he sent a rod through the block.

 

:D