check out my sig, any suggestions on injector size? I was thinking like 550's

 

for 350hp you should go with the 780cc it will leave you room to grow and you will be able to run lower duty cylce

the 550cc is about at its peak limit when you are hitting 350-400hp

 

Yup, leave room for safety in case of a boost spike, as well as room to grow.

 

thanks now what brand, or even better what injector do i need to buy? I noticed like peak and hold and low and high impendence and i dont know anything about injectors...

 

High impedance (saturated) RC750's are an easy tune and run like cake. No resistor box needed.

Precision 880cc low impedance (P&H) are about as big as you can go and still have a true stocklike idle... across a resistor box anyway. Also silly cheap, compared to others, and a good injector.

 

we have had great luck with the rc sat 750's. we will see about their p-h's soon once i break my clutch in.

 

What do you guys suggest using for a EMS? i was thinking the hondata s300...but my ? for that ecu is, its the ecu itself, datalog cable and the s300 and software all for 595 is that right?

 

so 550's would be good for like a 300hp set-up? what about DSM's ?

 

With the current state of Honduh ECU development, if you had REALLY big injectors, in order to get proper cold startup corrections + idle functions, I'd steer you towards Neptune.

With the goals you've stated, you should be able to get in and out of a Crome tune on your existing ECU for less than the cost of the Hondata. Cold idle AFRs shouldn't be terribly skewed, or a problem. That's the route I'd suggest.

Hondata, EMS, etc, are ranked 3rd +, with there being a big step down after number 2. If you had bigger power expectations and in need of speshul functions meant for a racecar, EMS would bump up a couple notches.

 

thanks anyone else

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by J. Davis &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">High impedance (saturated) RC750's are an easy tune and run like cake. No resistor box needed.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

so you can just drop these in and let you mangement handle the rest ( i run neptune )

i thought 550's were as big as you could go WITHOUT a resistor box (at least they were when i bought injectors

 

In the last year+ RC came out with 550, 650, and 750 high Z injectors, no resistor box needed. They are really nice units.

I have a set of the high Z 550's with 75 miles on them I'd trade even for Precision 880's

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by J. Davis &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">In the last year+ RC came out with 550, 650, and 750 high Z injectors, no resistor box needed. They are really nice units.

I have a set of the high Z 550's with 75 miles on them I'd trade even for Precision 880's </TD></TR></TABLE>

thanks.
how about my 550's and some cash ?
lol

 

so at what hp will the 750cc inj max out at?...

 

you'll need the Peak and Holds, the H22 uses a resistor box OEM.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by J. Davis &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">In the last year+ RC came out with 550, 650, and 750 high Z injectors, no resistor box needed. They are really nice units.

I have a set of the high Z 550's with 75 miles on them I'd trade even for Precision 880's </TD></TR></TABLE>

On a stock ECU why wouldn't people be running these over Peak and Hold? The most current that can be supplied is ~1A by the stock drivers. Where P&H initially need ~4 Amps to "yank" open the injector. Am I the only one who see's a problem there? I'm just wondering if you know what impact this has on the P&H injectors? Wouldn't they open slower?

 

Honduh cheaped out with some of the older cars... saturated injector drivers where the cheapest, p&h injectors the cheapest, and an inline resistor is dirt cheap. With increasing emissions mandates, they started using correct injector + driver pairings with *most* OBD2 vehicles. All current ones are correctly paired.


The P&H open a lot slower, especially the really big internalled injectors. Small duration injector events start becoming really hard to control, very muddy, and you see a lot of the bigger injectored Honduhs (1000cc+) running 1100-1500 rpm idles because anything lower is a bitch to achieve.

Some people run injector driver boxes, also. I believe mikes01gsr runs one, he said he picked up a lot of idle quality and part throttle response from it.

 

that's some good info. Thanks

Are the injector boxes pretty expensive?

 

Acceleronics or wtf they are called sell them in the $200-250 range.