Ie got my D16a6 apart now, I think i spun a bearing on the #3 cylinder, there was no rod beairng anyways, the rod is bea to **** but the crank is fine feeling by hand, cant feel anything with my fingernail but it does look a little black and crungy

I dont have the downtime to send this to a shop a few towns over to get it polished

What can I use to make sure its clean and not grooved and to polish it/clean it up a bit?

Im hoping the dark maroon scothbrite pads will work but wanted to ask first

Thanks

 

You will need to replace the crank or the same thing will happen in 20 miles. Your crank journal is now out of shape and there is no way to fix it yourself.

 

well, although i personally wouldn't do this to my own crank, this might be good for your situation. This technique is from Rick Voegelin's book on engine blueprinting. If you really want to see how to do this, buy the book it has some good pictures.

here's what you'll need:

600 wet/dry grit sandpaper
shoelace
solvent

Cut the sandpaper into a strip the width of the journal, wrap the journal with the sandpaper and then wrap the shoelace around the sandpaper, pour solvent on the area while sanding back and forth.

much better than scotchbriting the journal, but still nowhere as good as having a competent shop performing their services with modern finishing equipment.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Justin Jones &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well, although i personally wouldn't do this to my own crank, this might be good for your situation. This technique is from Rick Voegelin's book on engine blueprinting. If you really want to see how to do this, buy the book it has some good pictures.

here's what you'll need:

600 wet/dry grit sandpaper
shoelace
solvent

Cut the sandpaper into a strip the width of the journal, wrap the journal with the sandpaper and then wrap the shoelace around the sandpaper, pour solvent on the area while sanding back and forth.

much better than scotchbriting the journal, but still nowhere as good as having a competent shop performing their services with modern finishing equipment.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i am not knocking this method, although i wouldnt do it my self, BUT he spun a rod bearing. the crank needs to be replaced or machined. there is no other way about it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by earl &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You will need to replace the crank or the same thing will happen in 20 miles. Your crank journal is now out of shape and there is no way to fix it yourself.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Are you spying on me Earl?

That's what happened to me exactly.

 

The journal looks and feels perfect

Can I not take a measurement in 8-12 different places on the journal with a micrometer that I can get fomr work and see if everything is close to be inspec?

 

i am not te3lling you to do this, i still say it needs to go to the machine shop , but, yeah measure, it put it back together and drive it. you might get lucky, but odds are you WILL spin it again, oh and dont forget to get the big end of the rod resizd as it is out of spec also.

never once have i seen a spun rod bearing not do dammage to a crank.

but if you want to chance it go ahead. its not my money.

 

but if the crank cosmetically appears fine and I check multiple spots, wouldnt it infact be fine?

 

 

you will need a micrometer that measures down to ten thousands of an inch and a factory service manual to see if its still in specs. if it spun a rod bearing its probably flat spotted the crank and cannot be used.

 

Ive got access to mics form work that are capabale of measuring a number to the tenths, no problem. Just go in multiple spots around the crank and across the diamter right?

Any tips to clean up the surface?

 

and again i say,
if it spun, you WILL need to resize the big end of the rod.

do what ever you want. it seems that you have it in your head that it is fine.
put a bearing back in it and drive it.

 

Resize the rod? Im not using the stock rod that it spun on, im upgrading to eagles

 

well thats atleast one good thing.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Justin Jones &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well, although i personally wouldn't do this to my own crank, this might be good for your situation. This technique is from Rick Voegelin's book on engine blueprinting. If you really want to see how to do this, buy the book it has some good pictures.

here's what you'll need:

600 wet/dry grit sandpaper
shoelace
solvent

Cut the sandpaper into a strip the width of the journal, wrap the journal with the sandpaper and then wrap the shoelace around the sandpaper, pour solvent on the area while sanding back and forth.

much better than scotchbriting the journal, but still nowhere as good as having a competent shop performing their services with modern finishing equipment.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i did it to my crank with 2000 grit. drysanded after brake parts cleaner cleaned up... that book's worth well more than it's facevalue...

 

mic it to spec. if its good, do the shoe lace trick, if its not, dont waste your time, cranks can be had for less than $100.