The car has been lowered with King Super Low springs and camber at the front is very negative (very bad tyre wear).. 17" wheels.

Anyone know how to fix the camber? are there any kits out there for this? Roll Centre Adjusters? Camber tops?

If anyone can help me it would be much apprecaited.

Thanks

 

http://www.passwordjdm.com
they carry omni power camber kits. that'll solve it

 

Get a camber kit!!

 

Skunk 2 are nice, but pricey.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AllstockSIke &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Get a camber kit!!</TD></TR></TABLE>
read u idiot


if you go on ebay they sell the skunk 2 controll arms for i think 150 i belive and there is a sliding plate that the ball joint is attached to that you can correct this. I would not do the washer trick i just feel this will not fix it but if you are tight on money i would look into that since its better than nothing.

 

skunk2 pro-series kit works great for me

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Slow_CvC99 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if you go on ebay they sell the skunk 2 controll arms for i think 150 i belive and there is a sliding plate that the ball joint is attached to that you can correct this. I would not do the washer trick i just feel this will not fix it but if you are tight on money i would look into that since its better than nothing. </TD></TR></TABLE>

you're the idiot that needs to read.

washer trick = rear

sliding ball joint = front.

the plate you're talking about is the upper control arm / front camber kit. That is what he needs.

 

washers for the rear. he's talking about the front.
it's a ghetto version of this:


This is what he needs:

 

oh yeah and I remember that pic of your girlfriend... lol she was straight nasty lol

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .Beaver &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">oh yeah and I remember that pic of your girlfriend... lol she was straight nasty lol</TD></TR></TABLE>

never posted one of her on ht but if you think she is pm me and i will shine some light on you, she actually was a model yeah it is nice dating a model don't be jealous. Your one of those 20 year old virgins that sits on ht all day because they have no other things in life to do, but hey if you need help finding a hot girl i could maybe help you

now im going to stop ruining this poor guys thread sorry about this to the original poster

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ewendc2r &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The car has been lowered with King Super Low springs and camber at the front is very negative (very bad tyre wear).. 17" wheels.

Anyone know how to fix the camber?</TD></TR></TABLE>
What were the camber specs when you had the car on the alignment rack?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Targa250R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
What were the camber specs when you had the car on the alignment rack?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'm curious about that, too.

You can drive with 2.5 degrees negative camber on the front with no adverse effect on tyre wear <u>IF</u> the car has an otherwise good alignment, with total thrust correct and toe in correct. If you're serious about your car it's important to get a good competition alignment after you change the height. You can throw off alignment that you'd never know how to correct, like the total thrust, and the car can end up feeling quite twitchy at speed because the front is fighting the back, even though to the back yard alignment specialist it looks like it's fine.

Most "camber wear" is really "toe wear." Seriously. My DC2 ITR was drive for two years with 2.5 degrees negative camber, on street and track, with no adverse tyre wear symptoms at all.

But, if you have something ridiculous like 4 degrees negative on the front, that is inappropriate for a street car, is going to be hard to correct, and is probably a sign that you've lowered the car too much.

The most often recommended camber kit for the EG and DC is the new, revised Skunk2 control arms. The design was changed to make it harder to lose the correction under the pressures of racing.

Another popular kit is the Ingalls adjustable ball joint.

Either one would work just fine.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by George Knighton &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I'm curious about that, too.

You can drive with 2.5 degrees negative camber on the front with no adverse effect on tyre wear <u>IF</u> the car has an otherwise good alignment</TD></TR></TABLE>


I belive i have about a 2.5 neg and my alignment is straight on but my tires still wear to the inside where as my back i have set at 0 and the tires are like new...... i always thought 0 was what was needed

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Slow_CvC99 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I belive i have about a 2.5 neg and my alignment is straight on but my tires still wear to the inside </TD></TR></TABLE>
Post your alignment sheet. I'd like to see the front toe specs.

I have approximately -2.0* camber up front on both sides, and the toe on each side is set at 0.00". I have no uneven tire wear - my fronts are both at 4/32" tread all the way across.

 

i dont know where it is but, for the back i have a tool that you attach to the axle screw and adjust it off of that, thats how i figure the camber for the car.. but thats weird

 

Hmm -- Any prices?

I don't have a camber reading at the moment but the tyre has worn so badly on the front that one has gone flat, due to the inner-most section of the tyre wearing out / de-laminating, wearing through the radial band and down to the canvas. Not cool. The rest of the tyre has at least 3-4mm tread.

 

Anyone know how to fix the camber??

 

you can get the front camber kits for about 150 on ebay and are skunk 2 there maybe off brands cheaper i dont know for sure... that is the only way to fix it. After you install it if you dont have a camber tool then take it to an alignment shop then can set it to 0

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ewendc2r &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I don't have a camber reading at the moment but the tyre has worn so badly on the front that one has gone flat, due to the inner-most section of the tyre wearing out / de-laminating, wearing through the radial band and down to the canvas. Not cool. The rest of the tyre has at least 3-4mm tread.</TD></TR></TABLE>
That is NOT camber wear, that is TOE wear. Negative camber does not wear a tire like that. Your front end is toed out pretty badly - you need to buy a new set of tires, then get your car on an alignment rack and have them set the toe to exactly 0.00" at all four corners. This will stop your uneven wear.

 

+1

Have the same problem ^^^^ he's right

 

Ahh that'd make sense actually thanks mate .. That'd also explain why it tries to drive all over the road.

Thanks

 

Also if the car is pretty slammed too shitty tire wear comes with it without any suspension adjustment mods. but thumbs up on the toe answer

 

Question, do certain years require different kits than others? I have a 97 EX that I would like to lower but I have been told I need a camber kit for the front, and not the rear? Then I have a freind who has an EP3 and said his car only required a camber kit on the rear. Or do you not know untill you get to the alignment shop? I work at a service center and we do alignments all day long, but never had to deal with a honda needing kits, more like Chevys needing knockouts, and Grand Ams needing cam bolts.

 

I'd get front and back just to be on the safe side. But in my 92 hatch my front is more cambered than anything but it's not that bad either

 

you can find it on HT bro....i remember seeing 2 pairs of skunk2 cambers for 150....check out the classfie
ds