My blow off valve is not releasing anything when I let off the throttle. The turbo has a very loud whine to it now when I accelerate. Before the whine was never audible until yesterday when I heard a big pop come from the engine when I was boosting.


My symptoms are a loud pop from the engine, no more sound from the blow off valve, and my turbo spool is very loud now. Before the spool was inaudible to me. Did a quick check of the couplings/rubber boot connecting the intercooler pipes and found a tiny cut but it looks superficial cut so I dont think air is coming from there.



Modified by Luchini at 5:54 PM 1/5/2006

 

no matter how small the hole is you will lose pressure, so change the coupler.

 

bumpage. even a small cut like that would lose all pressure? I could understand if it was a hole but this cut is tiny.

 

that tiny cut will make a difference...

 

Is it possible to stick a needle through the hole/cut? If so, change the couplings.

Dont tell me you used couplings from Lowes/home depot? -=P Those are made for other things. Not fabric layer braided.

 

Where can I get some good ones? Prob have to order it online?

 

In all honesty, if your pipes fit together well enough-- those couples from home-depot or lowes work damn good. I actually feel safer using those than a lot of the silicone couplers. A lot of the silicone couplers are very tender, and can slice very easily, or get a hole blown in them. The home-depot ones are pretty stout.. especially the transitions which fit perfect.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Luchini &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Where can I get some good ones? Prob have to order it online?</TD></TR></TABLE>

PM STAN from FAST-TURBO.COM. His name on here is FLAMENCO-T

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ccivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">In all honesty, if your pipes fit together well enough-- those couples from home-depot or lowes work damn good. I actually feel safer using those than a lot of the silicone couplers. A lot of the silicone couplers are very tender, and can slice very easily, or get a hole blown in them. The home-depot ones are pretty stout.. especially the transitions which fit perfect.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes, It will works if pipe fits nicely. But they tend to get very SOFT when heated.

SILICON couplings are layered with nylon also.. 2-3 layers with the silicon. Are you sure they slice easy? and blow holes? Your kidding right?

Do it right the first time, saves you the headaches.



Modified by synik at 8:26 PM 1/5/2006

 

It sounds like more than just a little cut in the coupling, did you check the other couplings too? I bet one of them completely popped off from how you described it. Yeah and get silicon couplings and T-bolt clamps if you are gonna run a lot of boost anytime.

 

Are there any couplings in a DRAG kit that are hidden by plain view? im going to check them all out tomorrow and dont want to miss one.

 

I have 4 of those home-depot couplers on my car.. not one has blown off, nor has one popped. My friend with a s/c Accent had one of his slice. Another friend with a 240 SR20DET swap @ 11psi had one of his blow a hole in them. I base my decisions on experience and what I've personally seen. I've never had a problem with my couplers.

 

i prefer napa couplers which, when heated up stick to the piping!
i had a tbolt break and my car still held 11 psi without a clamo holding one side of the coupler!

 

if you need REAL couplers. I have a few 2.5inch black ones laying around from ATP. Make me an offer if you need some. I ordered a bunch in bulk and never used 1/2 of them

 

nobody even mentioned anything about the loud pop, maybe his compressor wheel dissinigrated or something, and hes not even making boost

 

Well guys I looked around a bit more and found a blown coupling on the side of the intercooler. Looks like all the pressure is being lost through there. Im going to order some more new ones. Is there a specific size I should be looking for?


I still dont understand how this would cause the turbo to whine so much louder. Maybe since the piping is connected to the turbo the sound is coming through the opening where the coupling was? Hopefully when I get a new one all will be fixed.

I prob wouldnt have found it without your guys help. Thanks guys

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Luchini &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well guys I looked around a bit more and found a blown coupling on the side of the intercooler. Looks like all the pressure is being lost through there. Im going to order some more new ones. Is there a specific size I should be looking for?


I still dont understand how this would cause the turbo to whine so much louder. Maybe since the piping is connected to the turbo the sound is coming through the opening where the coupling was? Hopefully when I get a new one all will be fixed.

I prob wouldnt have found it without your guys help. Thanks guys </TD></TR></TABLE>

That what HT is all about. Tech related issues.

PM flamenco-t He got good deals on couplers and clamps. (fast-turbo.com)

 

Here is a list of things to do that are sometimes overlooked when finalizing a turbo setup.

-Get high grade silicon couplers(those that have layers of fabric in them).
-Use t bolt clamps (I do not trust worm drive clamps even if they are doubled up).
-Either bead roll the edges of the intercooler piping or have a bead welded around the entire pipe(this will alomost completely eliminate hoses coming loose from vibration or high boost).
-Pressure test your intercooler piping. This actually makes a difference in boost response as well. Making the most efficient use of a turbo is imperitive. (Use some sort of rubber ball to block off the compressor inlet. Use an air hose to build pressure in system. You can attach the air hose to a vaccum port on the manifold. If you have a standalone EMS watch your engine load parameter and see if pressure is constanly increasing. Have a helper spray a soapy solution on all connections and watch for bubbles. I do this on all my cars and it truly makes a difference.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by msmotorsports &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Here is a list of things to do that are sometimes overlooked when finalizing a turbo setup.

-Get high grade silicon couplers(those that have layers of fabric in them).
-Use t bolt clamps (I do not trust worm drive clamps even if they are doubled up).
-Either bead roll the edges of the intercooler piping or have a bead welded around the entire pipe(this will alomost completely eliminate hoses coming loose from vibration or high boost).
-Pressure test your intercooler piping. This actually makes a difference in boost response as well. Making the most efficient use of a turbo is imperitive. (Use some sort of rubber ball to block off the compressor inlet. Use an air hose to build pressure in system. You can attach the air hose to a vaccum port on the manifold. If you have a standalone EMS watch your engine load parameter and see if pressure is constanly increasing. Have a helper spray a soapy solution on all connections and watch for bubbles. I do this on all my cars and it truly makes a difference. </TD></TR></TABLE> Yup!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Luchini &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I still dont understand how this would cause the turbo to whine so much louder. Maybe since the piping is connected to the turbo the sound is coming through the opening where the coupling was? Hopefully when I get a new one all will be fixed.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Not to be the bringer of bad news, but the extra sound you were hearing was the turbo trying to increase boost in an infinitely large area(which is the air in the atmosphere). The turbo has no limitations on how fast it can spin except for the materials and quality the CHRA (Center housing rotating assembly) are made out of. Basically, the faster the turbo spins the louder it gets. Over spinning can do quite a bit of damage by burning the layer of oil on the shaft and having metal to metal contact. The wastegate actually controls how fast the turbo ultimately spins. Hopefully nothing is wrong with the CHRA. Just do a little check by spinning the turbo by hand and check for shaft play. If everything feels very smooth and lubricated don't worry. If its unsmooth your going to have to take off and check the internals. It will get quieter once you hook the intercooler piping back on. Hopefully I answered your question. Just felt like typing some info out.

 

Well I ordered some new couplings and jury rigged the coupling to get it back on. It didnt have a hole or anything but was rather just ripped at the edges. The loud whine of the turbo is gone and the blow off valve is releasing the boost out.