looking for something on ebay or on here but i need a name brand

 

i guess i should also mention im going turbo. so turbo camshafts that will allow me to rev to 7500 on stock motor but just cams

 

your rev limit is all in the ecu, but if your replacing your cams you should get springs and retainers also. comp makes turbo cams for the ls i believe.

 

how hard is it to replace the springs and retainers?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JThrasher79 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">your rev limit is all in the ecu, but if your replacing your cams you should get springs and retainers also. comp makes turbo cams for the ls i believe.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i would honestly get just the upgraded springs and not worry about the retainers. also if your wanting to up the redline you have to adress the bottom end weakness issues to(weak rod bolts...bearings, etc)

 

like others have said, definitly upgraqde your valvetrain before cams. that's the bottleneck that's keeping you from revving higher. it's a good idea to get new rod bolts and bearings too.

 

its also what will prevent him from bending a valve....lmao your springs and the bottom end of the engine are what allow you to safely rev higher (for example, i dunno how happy an ls crank would be revving too high)

 

crower makes turbo cams to

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lVlemphizStylez &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">its also what will prevent him from bending a valve....lmao your springs and the bottom end of the engine are what allow you to safely rev higher (for example, i dunno how happy an ls crank would be revving too high)</TD></TR></TABLE>

yea, expecially with the added lift on the cams if will put more stain on the springs even with the stock redline.

 

good luck with the change

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lVlemphizStylez &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">its also what will prevent him from bending a valve....lmao your springs and the bottom end of the engine are what allow you to safely rev higher (for example, i dunno how happy an ls crank would be revving too high)</TD></TR></TABLE>

Its not the ls crank that's the issue. Its the oil system, and the rods/rod bolts. Also, the ls bottom end is not as balanced from the factory that the b16 or GSR is.

But for the cam question. If you are definitely going turbo, and you want cams, get some turbo cams. And DEFINITELY get springs/retainers. How high are you planning on revving?? another 300 rpm, and I would just get a type R oil pump. another 500-1000 more rpm, and I'd get the type r oil pump, oil pickup, windage tray, oil pan, and definitely the block girdle. With that many more rpms, I would recommend you get the rotating assembly balanced, but if you do that, you need to take everything apart, and at that point, you might as well rebuild it, and while your at it, since you're going turbo, you might want to think about forged rods and pistons. But if your going only another 300-500 rpm, just get a type r oil pump.

 

yeah i wanted to rev to 7500. will the type r pump fit?

 

just don't overrev, how do you know you'll even be making power up there? If you're not sleeving the block, and you're going turbo AND revving high, it's going to put lots of stress on the cylinder walls with the LS's low rod/stroke ratio.

loudassVTEC said it well.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slvrblckf4i &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">just don't overrev, how do you know you'll even be making power up there? If you're not sleeving the block, and you're going turbo AND revving high, it's going to put lots of stress on the cylinder walls with the LS's low rod/stroke ratio.

loudassVTEC said it well.</TD></TR></TABLE>

its not gonna put much more stress on the cylinder walls then the b18c1.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by the.hamburglar &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yeah i wanted to rev to 7500. will the type r pump fit?</TD></TR></TABLE>

the type r oil pump is a direct replacement. It'll go right onto the LS with no mods. My friend did this on his LS. I would recommend replacing the timing belt, and tensioner, and waterpump. You can also switch over to the type r water pump as well, it'll help you out a little. If you do decide to go with the type r waterpump, you'll need to use the GSR/type r timing belt, or your motor will die a horrible death. Rule of thumb: Type r waterpump = type r timing belt
LS waterpump = LS timing belt
the oil pump makes no difference with the timing belt.

Revving to 7500, I wouldn't worry about the bottom end being balanced, but I would definitely put the type r oil pump, windage tray, oil pan, oil pickup, and block girdle though. I dunno, with turbo, you're going to be putting a LOT of stress on the bottom end. With turbo, you're not going to need to revv high to make power, so me personally, I would keep the stock rev-limit, and play it safe. 500 rpm isn't going to make much of a difference on a forced induction motor. N/A, its a different story. You need high compression, big displacement, and high revving to make power.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by the.hamburglar &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yeah i wanted to rev to 7500. will the type r pump fit?</TD></TR></TABLE>

yea honda when they went to obd2 they used the same oil pump on all b-series engines.