i have a fully built motor with a drag gen 3 turbo kit

i wanna use the manifold still...
i have a full size pwr raditor...fal slimline fan kit and ac / ps

i want to get another turbo and dp
what turbo would bolt up and work good
i'm lookin to use a 3" vband dp as well and still run my WG closed loop

i'm lookin for all around more power...quicker spool and higher boost


i run pump gas on the street 91 oct....lookin to run c16 sometimes

i'm lookin for mid 400hp on pump and whatever i can get on c16

i have a 84mm sleeved gsr fully built...9.5:1 compresson

thx for the help

 

the drag manifold is one of the weakest pieces of that setup.

In my mind if you were to upgrade the kit (which I also run), do this:

- Equal Langth/ Ramhorm/ Neukin SS Manifold
- Upgrade intercooler (precision)
- Upgrade charge pipe size

Im not sure what the kit comes with, i have a tial WG and a HKS SSQ that I got with my used kit, but if you are running a deltagate WG or osmething i would upgrade that as well.

As far as turbo and downpipe it depends what you want. A larger turbo will give you more power but will take longer to spool and will deliver power later in the power band (6krpms+) a more midsized turbo will give you good midband power and a quick spool but will generally fall flat on its face as you get into larger amounts of boost (20psi+)

I run the one that came with the drag kit, its one of the more medium sized ones and i love it. Gives me power starting at 3k full spool by 4.5k and holds all the way til 8.8k rpms.

 

i already upgraded the IC and piping...i hpc coated the mani...turbo..dp....i dont wanna change my raditor fan setup...that's why i wanna keep the drag mani...i have a TIAL wg...no boost creep at all i boost like 15psi on the street........i think they make a BB center section for the turbo now...would that make a difference....i think i saw like a 1k price tag...don't know who makes it thou.....if that part would work i could keep my dp i have now aswell....bump for BB center setion info for my drag turbo

 

bump...i got money to spend...lol

 

Any t-3 flanged turbo will bolt right up. Gt35R would bolt right up, it's a bb turbo and will easily support your power goals

 

You can make 400whp with the stock turbo and a 3 inch downpipe. Just get a 1 bar wastegate spring, turn your boost controller off, and have a ball driving around on 17-18psi. Boost creep is my friend.

What cams and intake manifold are you using?

 

i have the gsr cams....aebs intake mani with a 65mm TB....no more rubber 90degree elbow any more....redid all the charge pipes and flared them ...no more charge pipes blowing off anymore...btw i have the 7psi wg spring.....why do you recommend no BC

 

How bout port and polish head and ITR cams?

 

head is PnP...fully manley valve train skunk2 cam gears

 

i read that o1 itr cams is a big difference...where is a good place to pick them up at....would it be better to just get some turbo cams...any suggestions

 

I also have a drag kit and im currently in upgrade situations, I also have the full fluidyne fal fan setup as do you. I upgraded all my pipes to 2.5 inch and have gotten a big pwr intercooler. Am looking for the same whp goals as you 400-450 on a fully built motor.
Do tell me whats the best turbo for me and lucids goals, fast spool times, responsive and powerful. I wanted to upgrade my turbo mani. for a long time but also want to keep the full sized radiator with a/c. 57 trim, stage 3 blades, 63a/f

 

well i think the turbo is capable of that power especially on the bigger bore and pnp head. as far as the mani and downpipe im not too sure you can get a full 3" dp that is still ac and ps compatible. i know spoolin makes a 2.5-3 flared dp. and turning up the boost might cause some spiking with the drag mani. but i say go for it. bigger exhaust and more boost, and hope it doesnt spike. if that doesnt work get a bigger turbo.

 

like i said before weakest part of the whole DRAG kit is the manifold, pretty much ANY SS manifold will not only flow better but will yield faster spool times as well.

I know the next upgrade for me is the neukin manifold.... stock MAP + 8.7psi spring and DRAG mani kreep = BOOST CUT

I ******* hate that DRAG manifold, its a good starter manifold but ask anyone making big power and they will tell you it cant flow past 14psi efficiently.....

 

Yeah but were limited with the full sized radiator, unless we go for that other manifold, the one thats identical to the drag mani almost with no boost creep, I forget the name.

 

wow...i have never had any boost creep with my drag kit...i have the tial WG...it will hold at 7psi all day long with the BC off..i run a bar all the time and still no creep.......

anyone else have a opinon

 

Yeah im at 12 psi with no creep myself

 

i run 8.7psi, 38mm tial, open dump, and it will still creep to 10.

Only reason i know it will creep is that i am using stock map and when it creeps to 10 i hit a boost cut.

It doesnt hapen all the time, has only happened 4 or 5 times in the 5months or so ive had the kit....

 

turbotime ??? where do you get ur pressure source for the WG at the turbo on the intake mani

i swear i have tried to get mine to spike....on the dyno we even had it at 18psi on 91oct pump gas...lol....still no creep....

 

im tapping off the brake booster, before the check valve, and the wg is the only thing tied into that vac source... running on just the spring 8.7psi (.6bar)

 

have you tried runnin it off the turbo...it's a shorter line and a faster signal

 

yeah i was running off the turbo for a while but then you wont see full boost at the manifold... cause there is like a 2psi pressure drop after the intercooler.... i heard u want to get as close to the throttle body as possible...

or so i have read.

 

i've have ran both ways...usin a vac. mani.....now i run a boost controller...the solinoid runs off the turbo....but the digital boost sensor runs off my vac. mani..

i would run it off the turbo housin...it's better than getting a boost spike

what IC and piping r you using?? iats??

 

im nots sure on iats cause it was tuned by someone else and im not all tunerly ya know..

but i am running the spearco core IC and stuff, all drag pipes, they start really small from the turbo to the ic (1.25-1.75") ish never measured thats a guesstimate. then after the IC it is a little bigger around 2"-2.5" i would guess, which goes to the rubber elbow and finally to the main charge pipe which tapers out from 2.5"ish to the size of the throttle body (3"?).

I can get exact measurements if thats what you think is causing my cut...

Also it only seems to "cut" when im boosting in the first 15min of starting the car. Even if its fullwarm....

Like once i went out for a drive after the car was full warm and boosted out of the neighborhood in 2nd and it 'boost cut'. But after that i waited a few more mintues and it didint cut anymore...

Is this just something with hondata? Also im running stock MAP. It seems like it only happens in the first 15-20min of starting the car... then none after that.

very weird, appreciate any insight, when it cuts CEL flashs for a half second then goes away so im pretty sure it is a boost cut.