i just got my R like 2 weeks ago.. well today yesterday hit the side of the car, which thankfully i dont think it was TOO bad.. just messed up the side of teh front bumper and the fender (passenger side).. it was driving fine after.. i wasnt that far from home. so this morning im going to work and i try to pass someone, and the car wouldnt hit vtec.. it just stayed at the same rpm for a few seconds and then it seemed like it died.. almost like it hit the fuel limiter.. this was in 3rd.. and then it threw an engine light, i tried it in 4th right after that and once it should have hit vtec it just dropped down in rpm.. not sure what happened or how to check what engine light/code it is..

 

i think you're in limp home mode buddy...

 

What code you showing? Could be a crapped out distributor. In order to check your code you need to go behind your glove box and remove the blue clip. The clip is by itself and easy to find. Once removed, fold a paper clip in half and place either end of the clip inside the blue clip. Turn the key in the ignition and record flashes of the CEL.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by abda53 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">not sure what happened or how to check what engine light/code it is.. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Find the service connector. Its on the passenger side under the dash near the glovebox. Its a blue clip which may have a soft plastic green cover on it. It is on the side near the door. There are two wires in the connector. Jump them with a paperclip or piece of wire. Then turn the ignition on. The check engine light will begin to flash. Count the flashes. A long flash = 10, and each short flash = 1. So 2 long flashes and 3 short ones means code 23. Then use this chart to determine what the code means.

1 O2A - Oxygen sensor #1
2 O2B - Oxygen sensor #2
3 MAP - manifold absolute pressure sensor
4 CKP - crank position sensor
5 MAP - manifold absolute pressure sensor
6 ECT - water temperature sensor
7 TPS - throttle position sensor
8 TDC - top dead centre sensor
9 CYP - cylinder sensor
10 IAT - intake air temperature sensor
12 EGR - exhaust gas recirculation lift valve
13 BARO - atmospheric pressure sensor
14 IAC (EACV) - idle air control valve
15 Ignition output signal
16 Fuel injectors
17 VSS - speed sensor
19 Automatic transmission lockup control valve
20 Electrical load detector
21 VTEC spool solenoid valve
22 VTEC pressure valve
23 Knock sensor
30 Automatic transmission A signal
31 Automatic transmission B signal
41 Primary oxygen sensor heater
43 Fuel supply system
45 Fuel system too rich or lean
48 LAF - lean air fuel sensor
54 CKF - crank fluctuation sensor
58 TDC sensor #2
61 Primary oxygen sensor
63 Secondary oxygen sensor
65 Secondary oxygen sensor heater

And yes, you are in limp mode. Dont drive it until the problem is corrected.

 

ok ill go try that right now thanks

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by abda53 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok ill go try that right now thanks</TD></TR></TABLE>

It only takes a few minutes. Post up when you get the code.

 

code 22 - vtec pressure valve

what is that and how do i fix it?

 

i just googled it and it said you can get that from low oil.. i did check the oil earlier today and i noticed it was pretty low.. and i was going to add more tonight. so im guessing thats what the problem is.

so what oil is recommended in the stock engine?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by abda53 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i just googled it and it said you can get that from low oil.. i did check the oil earlier today and i noticed it was pretty low.. and i was going to add more tonight. so im guessing thats what the problem is. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Fill up the oil to the proper level and check the wiring/ground on the vtec oil pressure switch. If that doesnt clear it up, replacement may be needed.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by abda53 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so what oil is recommended in the stock engine? </TD></TR></TABLE>

There are tons of threads on this, and everyone has their own opinion. Personally I use full synthetic 5w30 in the summer and 0w30 in the winter. My brands of choice are Redline, Motul, Castrol, and Mobil 1.

 

ok.. filled up the oil. engine light is still on.. do i have to reset the ecu/ecm?

also now my tail light fuse is blowing every time i turn the lights on.. wtf could this be related in some way?

 

Just disconnect your battery for a couple seconds. Should clear any CEL's. Reconnect and see if it starts again.

As far as the fuse you may have some wires touching somewhere. I had a similar problem, just upped the amp fuse I was using and it went away.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Opie &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just disconnect your battery for a couple seconds. Should clear any CEL's. Reconnect and see if it starts again.

As far as the fuse you may have some wires touching somewhere. I had a similar problem, just upped the amp fuse I was using and it went away.</TD></TR></TABLE>

ok will try that.

as far as the fuse, im hesitant on doing that.. i tried it once on my crx with the taillights, and it got so hot i thought it was gonna catch fire.. lol

but i will disconnect the battery and see if that helps. thanks for all the responses so far

 

Just leave it unplugged for 10 seconds or so. Reconnect and start the caR.

 

ok.. cleared the check engine light

i was trying a new higher fuse for hte tail light, and now the cluster/interior lights dont work..... when i put the 10 back into the tail lights, the tail lights dont come on, but the fuse doesnt blow either.

not sure what happened, but i think i just took a step in the wrong direction. lol

is there another fuse between the switches and the fuse box?

 

did you check the light bulb itself?

 

Changing the fuse size is not the right way to go. You have a short some where. The reason for a fuse is so that you do not damage the electrical equipment and/or start a fire. If you got hit, have his insurance pay for it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GZR4DR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Changing the fuse size is not the right way to go. You have a short some where. The reason for a fuse is so that you do not damage the electrical equipment and/or start a fire. If you got hit, have his insurance pay for it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I completely agree, changing the fuse to something bigger is Wrong. But he does not care... He no longer owns that POS.
HAHAH!!!

 

You should check your oil atleast everytime you get gas. Hopefully we wont see a "I think I seized my motor" thread in a few months.

 

informative thread. thanks guys.

 

thanks for all the replies

 

BTW, for future reference, Autozone will pull codes for free, and most stores are now equipped with a newer model scan tool, which will not only read the code number, but will usually give a pretty good "error message" so you don't have to go inside and wait for the guy to look it up on the computer

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by andyt &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">BTW, for future reference, Autozone will pull codes for free, and most stores are now equipped with a newer model scan tool, which will not only read the code number, but will usually give a pretty good "error message" so you don't have to go inside and wait for the guy to look it up on the computer </TD></TR></TABLE>

While thats good that they do it for free and all, I dont like driving my caR around when I have a CEL without knowing what the code is. I'd rather pull over on the side of the road, bend a paperclip, and check the code right then and there.

 

True, I agree with that...just trying to help.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by abda53 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok.. cleared the check engine light

i was trying a new higher fuse for hte tail light, and now the cluster/interior lights dont work..... when i put the 10 back into the tail lights, the tail lights dont come on, but the fuse doesnt blow either.

not sure what happened, but i think i just took a step in the wrong direction. lol

is there another fuse between the switches and the fuse box?</TD></TR></TABLE>

So, is VTEC kicking in now?

Also, maybe when u'r car got hit, maybe it jarred something loose underneath the hood which may have affected u'r wiring?

Please let us know of u'r findings. Thanks!

-Buzz

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by buzzman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So, is VTEC kicking in now?

Also, maybe when u'r car got hit, maybe it jarred something loose underneath the hood which may have affected u'r wiring?

Please let us know of u'r findings. Thanks!

-Buzz</TD></TR></TABLE>

yes, my vtec wasnt working because of the low oil.. which is why i was getting the check engine light.

as far as teh wiring, i looked but didnt see anything loose, and also all of the other electrical things seem to be working fine. ill post an update tomorrow when i look at it closer