Considering my brake fluid officially looks like Guinness Stout, I think it's about time to bleed and replace it. The strange thing is that the brakes still bite as hard as they did at 23k. Then again, it's never seen any track action, just autocross.

My question is, have you guys ever used those one-man bleed kits and if so how well do they work? I've been scoping out a few Harbour Freight ones that are in the $35 dollar range.

Any experience/input would be appreciated.

thanks!
-Matt

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Utilitarian &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Considering my brake fluid officially looks like Guinness Stout, I think it's about time to bleed and replace it. The strange thing is that the brakes still bite as hard as they did at 23k.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Brake fluid needs to be flushed (replaced) every so often because their resistance to boiling is reduced over time. You wouldn't notice any difference in routine driving. But if you get the brakes really hot - such as on the racetrack or even a hard panic stop on the highway - they are more likely to boil, which you will notice as a spongy pedal and less responsiveness. This is because brake fluid is hygroscopic, meaning that it absorbs moisture over time. As it absorbs moisture, the temperature at which it boils is lowered.

On a car that only sees normal street use, I recommend flushing brake fluid at least once every two years (or 30K miles, whichever comes first). On a car that is driven on a racetrack or autocross, or a car which is driven HARD on the street, I recommend flushing brake fluid at least once every 6-12 months.

You can improve the resistance to boiling by using a brake fluid with a higher boiling temperature. You can see the dry boiling points (boiling temperature when the fluid is new) and wet boiling points (when the fluid has absorbed moisture) for most popular brake fluids in this previous topic.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Utilitarian &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
My question is, have you guys ever used those one-man bleed kits and if so how well do they work? I've been scoping out a few Harbour Freight ones that are in the $35 dollar range.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

I have and use a Motive pressure bleeder: http://www.motiveproducts.com/ There will be some that say that this particular bleeder will force water vapor into the fluid because of how it compresses air to flush the system, but I haven't yet had any negative experiences with it or the new fluid the 4 to 5 fimes I flush the system per season.

There are also vacuum type systems that work with an air compressor but at the time I chose the Motive I didn't have access to a compressor and the Motive unit is extremely convenient to use when doing a one manned full flush at the track. Upon viewing Motive's site I see that they now have a vacuum hand fluid bleeder that is also an option. RJ will tout gravity bleeding and Newton's apple but it's slow, and who has time between sessions for a full flush.

I had also previoulsy used a one man vacuum hand bleeder and had poor luck with it as well as a sore hand at the end of a full flush.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Utilitarian &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
My question is, have you guys ever used those one-man bleed kits and if so how well do they work? I've been scoping out a few Harbour Freight ones that are in the $35 dollar range.

Any experience/input would be appreciated.

thanks!
-Matt</TD></TR></TABLE>

The 6$ one man bleed kit from Autozone get the job done for me.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Eva01 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

The 6$ one man bleed kit from Autozone get the job done for me. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Seriously? I have a very tough time believing that. I might explore that avenue though.

Anyone else? What about all the Expo/track rats that change fluid before HPDE's?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Utilitarian &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
What about all the Expo/track rats that change fluid before HPDE's?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah, what about all of them

Me = curious.

 

best way to bleed is to get another person to help you

 

I use a vacula. It uses shop air to create the vacuum, no pumping needed. It is expensive but worth it.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/produ...28013

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 98 Spec R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I use a vacula. It uses shop air to create the vacuum, no pumping needed. It is expensive but worth it.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/produ...28013</TD></TR></TABLE>

definitely makes the job only a ten minute task, at most..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Utilitarian &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Seriously? I have a very tough time believing that. I might explore that avenue though.

Anyone else? What about all the Expo/track rats that change fluid before HPDE's?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Why is that hard to believe? It's a one man brake bleeder that works on a simple siphon principle to keep air bubbles from going back into the brake lines as you pump the pedal. Basically it's a bottle and a hose...I'm sure you could probably build your own cheaper but I'm too lazy to do that. Anyway, it maybe low tech but I've done several brake fluid flushes with it and it works fine.

 

I use a two person method. My father has a pressurized one that seems to work pretty well with his german cars, but its just so easy and quick to do it the old fashioned way.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Utilitarian &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Anyone else? What about all the Expo/track rats that change fluid before HPDE's?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Changing fluid before every event is unnecessary (unless you've boiled the fluid).

- Ken, Track Rat

 

I have used this method that .rj describes in his post here.

.rj's post

I call it the "looser loop" because you can do it by yourself

 

Thanks for the information guys! I'm going to try Evo1's approach and go from there as soon as it stops raining here in NC.