Ok guys, I have checked the timing, replaced the cap, rotor, plugs, wires, fuel filter, everything tune up wise..engine runs great. I have also cleaned the IACV....D16z6.

Once the car is warmed up the idle gets really low almost to the point to where it shuts the car off or I have to keep my foot on the gas. At night when its cool its not as noticible.

Tonight following the procedures in the manual.
I pulled the IAC plug.
Started the car....Car wouldnt stay started.
Adjusted the idle screw..it barely stayed running(it still had the wax on it, and didn't notice until I turned it..doh).
Adjusted it some more..no change..no matter how far in or out, the car is idling on the first line of the tach right off of 0 no where near the 475rpm the manual says it should be at.
Finally I said screw it, adjusted it back to about where I thought it was, plugged up the IAC, reset the ECU and went driving...it was somewhat better, but still real low..

So that being said..Any ideas? It idles perfect cold..but after its to operating temp it gets worse and worse idle wise, but the car runs like a champ, so vac leaks don't seem like the culprit, and assume those would raise the idle if anything.

 

TTT for the morning crew

 

hmmm interesting, blowing any smoke? Air in the coolant?

Are you running a FITV? Have you bypassed it or are you using it?

It sounds vacuum related to me... do you have a vacuum gauge? How much vacuum are you pulling at idle when it starts dying?

 

did you try running with ur tps unplugged? Its the right side of your throttle body. I think i have a bad tps and my car surges at idle wen its plugged in. Im running with it unplugged right now and it just idles high.

Mike

 

Mine doesn't surge it just is straight low. No smoke at all, compression is 200+ across, I'm using FITV.... I would need to hook up a vacuum tester and I don't have one, but I would think a vac leak would make it idle higher if anything.

I'm leaning towards bad IAC or FITV, I'm going to swap the IAC, and see how that goes, the manual says if you can't adjust the idle to specification with the Idle screw then proceede to IAC troubleshooting.

Once I do that, I'm going to take the intake off and see if the FITV is leaking when its hot..but if its letting more air in essentially if its leaking, would that lower the idle, as I thought the point of it was when it was cold to bump the idle up.

 

how far out is your idle screw?

do you have a chipped ECU? (it's very easy to adjust the AICV in a chip, it may be set to low)

a vacuum leak should cause it to idle high not low.
did you check the AICV operation when it was off?
jumper 12v across the two pins and the plunger will move to full open. if it kinks to the side or moves a tiny bit then replace the AICV.

 

thanks relic, so it doesn't need the coolant lines, I can just pull it off and test its function?

And no, don't have a chipped ecu. The idle screw I did all the way in, and all the way out till it was wobbling like about to come out of the threads and I could see the washer an little o ring. It in no way adjusted the idle.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dmxsoulja3 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thanks relic, so it doesn't need the coolant lines, I can just pull it off and test its function?</TD></TR></TABLE>
to check the plunger operation, no it doesn't need to be connected to anything. but breifly connect the power to it, holding it too long may damage it.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dmxsoulja3 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The idle screw I did all the way in, and all the way out till it was wobbling like about to come out of the threads and I could see the washer an little o ring. It in no way adjusted the idle.</TD></TR></TABLE>
that is a problem. have you cleaned the TB? the idle passage may be clogged.
pulling it that far out should run the idle up to 2500 or more.

 

its probably your fitv, they are notorious for going out. They cause idle issues, they just run on wax amd a diaphram. There is a way to bypass them.

Just pull the fitv out and take off the plate on the flat side... if the plunger falls out that means its toast...

*edit*: to bypass, put the plunger back in and screw ALL the way in. The put a cereal box type gasket between the fitv and TB and your set!

 

yeah it did nothing at all to the idle, it raised it enough to keep the car running with the IAC discconected but thats it and that wasn't high at all. Is the idle passage the other hole besides the FITV hole? and if I back the screw out all the way, could I shoot some carb clean in there or do you have any procedures to clean it up. I have looked at the TB and its pretty clean but I haven't cleaned it myself.

When you say breifly, do I need to apply 12 volts to just one side of the plug or both and for how long should I wait to see it move.

I think I can get a spare as well.

Thanks for your responses.

 

ground on one pin and 12v on the other. doesn't matter which side is which. by breifly I mean don't leave it connected for 5 minutes. a second is more than enough, it should jump quickly. it's basically a solinoid.

removing the screw and shooting carb clener in there should work. I'd try this before messing with the AICV or FITV.

is your CEL on by any chance? have you reset the ECU?

 

No CEL, and I have reset the ECU numerous times, it actually got worse due to the fact my battery went dead and I had to reset the ECU, it was low before but after the battery incident I couldn't keep it running at a light. What worried me was oil pressure at such a low rpm, but I never have seen the light come on even when it was bottomed out idle wise.

 

cleaning the iac usually doesnt work if so not long replace iac, once replaced the comp hase to relearn the idle. diff ways to relaearn on diff vehicles