I keep seeing different ways to mount the roll cage... some people create boxes then weld the cage to the box, some weld down large plates then weld the cage to them... which one is better? Why is one better than the other?

 

It depends where you mount the bar at and how are you planing to piece together the pipes. If you want to weld around completely without chopping off your roof/drill holes on the floor/ or removing the windsheild, then the box will give you a few inches of room/area so you can make that complete weld around the material. Some area, boxing it would be a better idea if its not on a complete flat surface.. Its up to you, ask a few local shops for their opinion on what you should do.

 

Its called a gusset

 

boxes make no sense whatsoever.

plates are superior as they allow you to seem weld/beef up vital parts of the chassis and you can cover more area with zero deflection.

 

I agree, a box is just attaching the cage to a part that will flex and isn't going to stiffen the chassis near as well.

 

I don't want to dispute you , but that is not necessarily the case.

It depends on what type of racing you are planning, what the sanctioning rules are and how safe you want your cage to be.

I race a 1987 CRX on a 1/2 mile 30* high bank asphalt track, where the rules REQUIRE 2" box around the floor of the drivers compartment. I put mine in the side rockers each side, with a cross under the pedals and another behind the seat next to the hump that goes to the hatch area. Having said that, I have my 6 points below the halo going directly to this box, with 3-1.5" door bars on drirvers side plus more going from the backside of halo to the rear strut tower, etc. etc. Maybe overkill to some, but it's my neck.

JMHO


Donnie

 

I don't like boxes.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Goal_Kar &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">



</TD></TR></TABLE>

In the above set up, if you didn't have the box and the plate was on the floor, you could then bring another plate up the rocker panel and gusset the tubing to both plates.

 

wow! I thought the primary reason of those boxes is to compensate for mounting only. I see people use them when an odd or awkward corner is present to compensate for a mounting location, such as going around a strut tower or a frame like the pictures above

 

I agree with everyone who says the boxes are worthless. By using a box, all you are doing is creating a space under the plate that the tubing will actually be welded to. By creating the space, you are allowing for the tubing and the top plate of the box to flex. On the other hand, if you were to attach the plate directly to the floor, the only flexing that is going to happen is going to be the flexing of the floorboard itself.
All in all, if it were me, I would DEFENITELY stay away from using the boxes.
Kyle

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by D Jaws II &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I don't want to dispute you , but that is not necessarily the case.

It depends on what type of racing you are planning, what the sanctioning rules are and how safe you want your cage to be.

I race a 1987 CRX on a 1/2 mile 30* high bank asphalt track, where the rules REQUIRE 2" box around the floor of the drivers compartment. I put mine in the side rockers each side, with a cross under the pedals and another behind the seat next to the hump that goes to the hatch area. Having said that, I have my 6 points below the halo going directly to this box, with 3-1.5" door bars on drirvers side plus more going from the backside of halo to the rear strut tower, etc. etc. Maybe overkill to some, but it's my neck.

JMHO


Donnie</TD></TR></TABLE>

Seems like in this situation the "box" is different from the ones in question. Your "box" is more of a frame for the floor from the way i'm reading it.

 

I like the box

 

Yes, in the image above, look next to the shifter and you will see the left beam of the box. This beam goes completely around the drivers compartment and IS welded to the frame with plates. Off of these 2" box beams, the rollcage is attached at 6 points and the box is attached at 6 points to the chassis & or frame where available.

If he was implying that by "boxes" he meant encasing a support member for example, that is another issue altogether. I mis-interpreted what he was refering to in his question.

Donnie


Modified by D Jaws II at 9:57 PM 11/3/2005


Modified by D Jaws II at 9:59 PM 11/3/2005

 

Yeah, different boxes. Yours makes much more sense.

 

Dang, illiterate computer people (ME) when I go to post an image, I get that garblee-**** stuff, how do you all do it? Well, what should I see prior to posting


[url=http:/www.....????? Where does the "....".


Noob me Can't figger it out.


Thanks


Donnie

 

Haha, i had that problem too at one time. Insert your link in between the img things. The pic has to be hosted on the internet already.

 

Cool thanks guys. I have a good explanation of both now.

 

Tony,

Thanks, dumba$$ me forgot to first go to "view image on the right click of the mouse then post the location. duh!!!

Thanks for your assistance. I appreciate that very much.


Donnie

 

Building a box for trickness/coolness is useless... and about as useless as slapping a flat piece of 6x6 plate on the floor.

IMO, pads should always be multi angled and the base of the hoop/bar should be resting on something structural. If the hoop has to go to the floor per the rules, the pad material should extend up the rocker and other structural members as much as possible.

I use "boxed" pads quite a bit, but only to extend a structural element (rockers or cross braces) or to turn the pad into one huge gusset.