What would cause the code for IACV after turbo install, and its a new IACV (which wasn't broken before the install). I'm really frustrated on this one; would the IAT sensor have anything to do with this? I checked all my vacum lines that I messed with and they're still all connected. The idle won't come down from 1,500 RPM either. Would the basemap cause this because its a rich fuel map?

Setup-(96 civic hb)
-RC 440's
-Crome basemap on p06 ecu (phearable.net)
-T25
-D16y7
-Greddy BOV
-JRC 6" intercooler

Any help would be appreciated, I hate when my car is sick

 

did you try turning down the idle screw?

 

I was thinking about that but that wouldn't be solving the problem, it doesn't stay @1,500 it a jumpy idle. it doesn't go down either, it stays there. Its hard to explain. Thanks for the reply, I hope this gets smoothed out when its gets tuned.

 

Shoot wd40 inside the hole and lube it..

 

sounds to me like ur Chipped ecu wasnt done correctly, if you have juts replace the IAC and made sure it was hooked up!

 

does this stop happening when you turn the key off and start thr car back up again?

did you use a Check valve system or missing link?

cuz the ecu doesn't like to see the boost threw the Map sensor, and if ti does then your celwill come on and you car will idle ruff and suck out.

 

Bump, b/c I'd like to hear ideas people have on resovling this, too. My car is doing the EXACT same thing. Idle was ALWAYS at a perfect 650 rpm before I installed my turbo setup; now, it's up and down between 800 and 1300! The thing idels like a godamn cam'd V8. IACV is good, FITV is good, no vacuum leaks. Happens in cold AND hot weather, instantly on startup AND after the car has been running awhile.

Only assumptions I could make about this guy's problem and mine (which sound very similar) is that either we're running too rich or too lean (so the idle is struggling) or it's an ign. timing issue.

14b turbo on stock d16z6, btw.

 

First time I turned it over the idle was wack, and I've tried resetting the ecu and its still the same problem, so it can't be because the MAP sensor is seeing boost.

I haven't gotten into full boost (apx. 8 psi) so the stock MAP sensor hasn't been maxxed out or anything cause it can read up to 11 psi.

I guess the question now is can the car's' IACV set off a CEL because the car is running rich because its untuned?

Thanks for all the help guys, I appreciate it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by neocrynym &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Bump, b/c I'd like to hear ideas people have on resovling this, too. My car is doing the EXACT same thing. Idle was ALWAYS at a perfect 650 rpm before I installed my turbo setup; now, it's up and down between 800 and 1300! The thing idels like a godamn cam'd V8. IACV is good, FITV is good, no vacuum leaks. Happens in cold AND hot weather, instantly on startup AND after the car has been running awhile.

Only assumptions I could make about this guy's problem and mine (which sound very similar) is that either we're running too rich or too lean (so the idle is struggling) or it's an ign. timing issue.

14b turbo on stock d16z6, btw.</TD></TR></TABLE>

What program are you using. I have heard that is a problem with uberdata. My N/A basemap does the same thing. No vacuum leaks, no CEL I was reading about it at pgmfi.org but have learned to just live with it.......I dont really care.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by specv5150 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

What program are you using. I have heard that is a problem with uberdata. My N/A basemap does the same thing. No vacuum leaks, no CEL I was reading about it at pgmfi.org but have learned to just live with it.......I dont really care.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I thought uberdata has the part of the program that you enter what boost level you have and it hids it from the ECU or something like that. Ny buddy that really into chipping ecu's was telling me about this. Maybe try using chrome or another program that has the ability to hide the boost from the ecu.

 

What did you do for coolant lines? You can't just disconnect them and run them to the turbo, they have to be T'd or you will get what you describe.

 

what about your tps.

 

Its not watercooled, I decided against that because I know people who don't watercool their turbo's and have ran them like that for years.

The TPS seems to be fine to me, it isn't throwing a code for that and I've drivin' it for a little bit but its sort of dangerous to drive as you can believe, I just hope I can clear this up before I have to drive it tomorrow to get it tuned and hour and a half away.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bond &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I thought uberdata has the part of the program that you enter what boost level you have and it hids it from the ECU or something like that. Ny buddy that really into chipping ecu's was telling me about this. Maybe try using chrome or another program that has the ability to hide the boost from the ecu.</TD></TR></TABLE>

It does let you run boost as far as the MAp sensor you are running will take you. I was referring to the supposedly inheirent flaw that if you use uberdata, your idle will be screwy

 

this may sound stupid but by any chance were the plugs switched map and iacv have the same plug ....... you would be suprised how much tuning will help with idle if your car is running stupid rich it could cause it to idle like that

 

I just tried unplugging the IACV and it didn't change the idle. I have one of the ricer resistors in the IAT sensor could that cause a surging idle, cause I tried a couple of thing with that and it didn't do anything. I just bought the sensor part from Honda, but I don't think that's going to fix the problem.:l

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by specv5150 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

What program are you using. I have heard that is a problem with uberdata. My N/A basemap does the same thing. No vacuum leaks, no CEL I was reading about it at pgmfi.org but have learned to just live with it.......I dont really care.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm on the hack, for now. My idle settings are set as lean as they will go (-50%) on the VAFC2. Maybe it's too lean? This just makes me need wideband even sooner

Anyone think that plug gap could make the idle do this?

 

you probably didnt do the iacv 3 wire to 2 wire conversion. your obd1 computer will not read the obd2 3 wire iacv which is located on you d16y7's throttle body. get either a z6, y8 (must be from a 5 speed) or b7 intake manifold with the 2 wire iacv. look up info on it......
heres a link
http://www.ff-squad.com/tech/w...8.jpg

 

I tried looking for vacum leaks with the WD-40 trick to no avail. Searched ebay for a manifold with the IACV sensor and no luck there either.

Link isn't working for me

 

what rextec said, if the iacv is not wired it will idle very low when car is first started, and idle will fluctuate, when warm. bet its the iacv wiring problem. i belive u cut the orange wire/pin 14 on clip A, dosnt get used, and put wire at pin 13 in the blank 12 pin, and ur good. but u need a 2 wire plug for the iacv. good luck with problem

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VTcivicHB &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I tried looking for vacum leaks with the WD-40 trick to no avail. Searched ebay for a manifold with the IACV sensor and no luck there either.

Link isn't working for me</TD></TR></TABLE>

That trick only works with gasoline. Put some in a spray bottle and spray around the seems of gaskets and such. If the idle goes up then you found your leak .

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bond &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

That trick only works with gasoline. Put some in a spray bottle and spray around the seems of gaskets and such. If the idle goes up then you found your leak .</TD></TR></TABLE>

It works with WD40 or brake cleaner also, only the effect is the opposite of the gasoline method, the idle will drop.