ok well, yesterday I did my first valve adjustment which went REAL good. I had everything done and I didn't torque any of the lock nuts because I read that it'll cause the adjusting screw to get out of spec, but my homeboy came over and torqued all the lock nuts to 25lbs, and I was like okay..... then I started it and it ran smooth so I thought it was all good, but now today its ticking like a mother ****** and almost every RPM. What could be the problem? Could it be that when he torqued it it got off spec ?

This is a b18a .006 intake .007 exhaust

I followed this from TI http://www.team-integra.net/se...D=485

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by redDAinteg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok well, yesterday I did my first valve adjustment which went REAL good. I had everything done and I didn't torque any of the lock nuts because I read that it'll cause the adjusting screw to get out of spec, but my homeboy came over and torqued all the lock nuts to 25lbs, and I was like okay..... then I started it and it ran smooth so I thought it was all good, but now today its ticking like a mother ****** and almost every RPM. What could be the problem? Could it be that when he torqued it it got off spec ?

This is a b18a .006 intake .007 exhaust

I followed this from TI http://www.team-integra.net/se...D=485</TD></TR></TABLE>

first off all 25 ft.lbs is almost TWICE the factory spec (14 ft. lbs). sounds like when your friend torqued the lock nuts he did not hold the adj. screw. without holding the adj. screw, more than likely the adj. screw turned also. this probably caused the clearances to go out of spec. i can tell you by "feel" that 14 ft.lbs is not much. best way i can describe 14 ft. lbs is when using a 10mm wrench, hold by the "neck" area and turn till it stops (from hand tight). when i adjusted my valves i did not torque the lock nuts. i just went with a general "snug". bottom line, if you're going to torque the lock nuts (imo, not ABSOLUTELY necessary) you'll have to use a open ended torque wrench because the adj. screw must not turn when torquing.

 

yeah, thats exactly what I thought when he did that, so tomorrow morning i'll just have to do another valve adjustment. those specs that TI gave for my b18a is fine right ? so as long as the lock nuts are snug it wont go flying out or anything ?

 

Correct. Now go beat the **** out of your friend.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by redDAinteg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yeah, thats exactly what I thought when he did that, so tomorrow morning i'll just have to do another valve adjustment. those specs that TI gave for my b18a is fine right ? so as long as the lock nuts are snug it wont go flying out or anything ?</TD></TR></TABLE>

yes. as long as its snug.

 

ok well, I did another valve adjustment dismorning and redid everything all intake valves set at .006 and all exhaust set at .007 Well after I did this I went on with my day and it ran smooth, then after a few hours, my engine starts ticking real loud again as if I needed another valve adjustment! What could be the problem? What im thinking is the specs I used are wrong! This is on a b18a. Should I use the b18b specs of INTAKE: .003-.005 EXHAUST: .006-.008 ?

I received all my information from here http://www.team-integra.net/se...D=485

 

it's possible that maybe one of your locknuts is not locking. when you drive throughout the day and it works fine that means your specs are ok. usually when cold valves tend to tick. when motor heats up clearances get tighter and USUALLY ticking goes away. i remember my friends DA had a similar problem with the ticking noise. turned out one of the locknuts was loose. i am not 100% sure, but i would highly suspect the locknuts. hope this helps.......

 

well ill check this on monday, but what IF all my lock nuts are all locked snug, then what could be the problem ? the wrong specs maybe, thats all i can think of.

and also, they tick loud even when my car is fully warmed up and im just driving around at 2-3.5rpm you can hear the ticking loud, after that my exhaust takes over.

 

did you have the problem before adj. your valves? damn...*thinking* if it's not the locknut, double check the clearances again. that's all i can think of now.........

 

the very first time I adjusted my valves, I used the .006 on all the intake sides and it wouldn't fit in any of them and I used the .007 in all the exhaust side and it wouldn't fit in any of them meaning they were all tighter to begin with. Does this mean anything? I think I just made all my valves looser than they were to begin with which leads me back to thinking the specs I used are wrong.

 

that's pretty unusual that it was tighter before you adj. anything. what it means-i have no idea. so, if the .006 and .007 didn't fit maybe you should try setting it to what it was before. maybe try getting a different source for specs? good luck man

 

You are adjusting them too loose. The factory specs for your engine while cold is:
.003-.005 inches intake and .006-.008 inches exhaust. So you can see that you have alot more space inbetween your rocker and valve than you need, causing the tapping. If after you readjust you still have tapping, then you might have other problems. Honda valvetrains are known for being noisey and fuel injectors also contribute some noise. Good luck and buy a manual for your car so your numb-nutt friends don't ruin your engine.

 

should I adjust the intake to .003 , .004 or .005 ?