No check engine lights, idle is kind of rough, ex/in is set to zero, timing is 16 degrees btdc, but the thing is, I had to use my d15z1 injectors(VX).
The motor is a b20b.
People told me that the flow rate of the VX injectors are 235cc, but I'm beginning to doubt that a little. If I'm driving just with a little bit of gas it runs fine, but if I give it a little more gas the car/rpm's starts to choke/studder, at about 3-4ooo RPM. After 5k rpms the car accelerates fine, it's just before that. You think it might be the injectors causing this problem?
I'm using a P75 ECU.

 

up

 

all i can tell you is try tapping on the injectors with a wrench a little bit maybe there is trash in em...or buy the ones ur supposed to have

 

i have had a few engines come with bad plug wires. would idle fine but as soon as you put it under load, when the engine needs the hotter spark, the resistence through the wires would cause a breakup. you can use a set of wires off of a single cam for testing, i dot it all the time. so you dont have to go buy another set without knowing exactly.

 

My car is in the shop right now for the same problem. I have new plugs and wired, cap and rotor, fuel pump, FPR, injectors are working fine, no other problems and no check engine light. I gave up before I dumped a lot of money at something and didnt' get it fixed and took it to my buddies shop. I pick it up in the morning and will post what he found, could be the same odd elusive problem.

 

it could be many things....proper clearances between cam and rockers,fuel filter,water in your gas,pcv system...etc

 

I checked everything but the cams that you listed, I can't see how that would cause a problem like this though.

 

do u know how the PCV system would cause the bad studdering?
BTW it happens mostly from 3000-3500 rpm.

 

on my cousins civic... it was a b16a turbo, it was doing the same thing.... ended up being a map sensor.. see if one of your buddies has an extra one to try out and see if that fixes the problem.

 

The map sensor I am using is from my old motor. It worked.

I'm throwing a code 10 now (IAT). For the life of me I can't get rid of it! I tested the IAT itself its right at 4k& or whatever that symbol is, like the helms says, also the red/yel wire shows 5V, so I'm not sure what the problem could be.

Tested the TPS, it's at .47 idle and 4.4 WOT, changed the fuel filter, changed the plugs, wires.

Weird thing is, when I plug the EGR plug into the IAT sensor the check engine light goes away but the car still runs the same.(bogs until 4000 rpm)

Sometimes I can't even get the car to move, it will just sit there powerless at a stoplight, I could have the gas pedal all the way down and it jus sits there.

ANy help would be appreciated.

 

update:

I adjusted the TPS sensor to .50V at idle
Removed FITV, covered up the holes
Resealed the IACV
Advanced timing 2 degrees so it is now at 18 BTDC

The car ran a lot smoother... for about 15 minutes.
Then it started to bog again

Still throwing code 10 (IAT)
Tried different ECU, code 10 still there.

HELP!

 

Ergh, sorry bro, they fixed mine and it was nothing like yours, the cleaned the throttle body and changed the map sensor (even though I had no codes) and this thing is running like a top and idles steady as hell. Wish I could help but being as this is my first honda, all I really do is read and try to learn.

 

it's ok, I'm glad they fixed your problem.

Today I will hopefully recieve my new injectors, and I am also going to remove the engine harness and double check all the wires to see if there isn't a short somewhere.

Does anyone know if, when I attach the ground cable back to the battery, there is just a little smoke, could that be a short somehwere?

 

wtf, I just took my injectors out and on the number one injector the little plastic piece is missing. It's the plastic piece from the side that goes into the intake manifold. It's the piece that surrounds the little metal pinhead where the fuel sprays out of.

 

my stock vx did that crap.... could never figure out the problem ... some people said it was the tps ... some guy said he had an accord that did that and found out his distributor had somthing wrong with it ... did you convert your 5 wire o2 to a 4 wire o2?????????????????? thats a must i think ....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by inline4 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">wtf, I just took my injectors out and on the number one injector the little plastic piece is missing. It's the plastic piece from the side that goes into the intake manifold. It's the piece that surrounds the little metal pinhead where the fuel sprays out of.</TD></TR></TABLE>
That would be your problem, also theres a very thin metal clip that goes around the plastic and holds the injector in place, make sure you replace it. That was most likely the cause of it breaking in the first place.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by eg1point8 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">it could be many things....proper clearances between cam and rockers,fuel filter,water in your gas,pcv system...etc</TD></TR></TABLE> any one of these would make the car idle like ****, or be blatantly obvious.<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by xxturbodreamsxx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">on my cousins civic... it was a b16a turbo, it was doing the same thing.... ended up being a map sensor.. see if one of your buddies has an extra one to try out and see if that fixes the problem.</TD></TR></TABLE>
p.s. it would throw a code if it was the MAP.

 

Thanks a lot guys for all your replies and suggestions. I got it fixed! Turns out the VX injectors just don't push enough, even though people say they're 240cc/235cc I don't think so, unless I just had a bad injector. Got some z6 injectors and the car is running like a champ now.