The check engine light only comes on after about a mile down the road, but if you turn the car off and then back on again, it's off until you drive at least another mile down the road and then it stays on until you turn the car off again.
I've taken it to a local Honda dealership and they told me to replace the knock sensor, so I did and the same problem still persists, It is still throwing the knock sensor code. I had rebuilt the motor 40k miles ago and have had this unsolvable problem eversense. The car also sparatically cuts in and out while driving almost like it's going in and out of safe mode.

PLEASE HELP!!!

I would also like to add that the civic and motor is a 2k, but the crank, rods, and pistons are out of a 95 civic, both motors are V-Tec

 

Make sure you don't have a break/short in the wire running from the knock sensor to the ECU. If you replaced the KS new or with a known good used one this is really the most likely cause for the problem.

 

The wire was cut when the motor was removed, but then crimped and heat sheilded.

 

yeah check your crimp connection, could be not making a connection. My B16 KS wire was cut and just like your my CEL wouldn't go on for a mile or so. Guess that is when the ECU realized it wasn't getting any signal from the KS. Also consider soldering the connection since sensors can be a little picky about increases in electrical resistance.

 

Thank you very much for the info. Although I am NOT looking forward to trying to solder that wire. I'm sure you can relate. Any suggestions?

 

Do you have any suggestions on how to solder the wire in it's inconvenient location?

 

Yeah its kinda in a bitch spot to solder. Hmmm, first I suggest picking up something like this

Link to Radio Shack site

Radio shack for like $15. In this case I would just remove the bar that has the two aligator clips from the main unit. This thing has come in handy so much for all the wiring projects I have done. Plus girlfriends stop holding your connections together for ya after you burn em a couple times. This really makes soldering much easier, especially when working in a confined area. But beyond that I'm drawing a blank besides pulling the harness at least 1/2 way out to bring the connection up top to work on.

Just on a side note, it's not advised to use "cold heat" soldering irons when working on circuits going to the ECU since they produce their heat through vibrations and this has a very slight chance of damaging ICs in the ECU. If you have a cold heat soldering iron I personally suggest disconnecting the ECU. Better to be safe than sorry.

 

maybe your sensor is actually doing its job and sensing detonation?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by life sux die &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">maybe your sensor is actually doing its job and sensing detonation?</TD></TR></TABLE>That could certianly be the case, but somethig like that should be random. Not everytime the car is driven just a minute or two after startup. I would say just to be safe, do a continuity test from the KS to the ECU to make sure your getting signal..

 

how do you check the continuity?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Rebuilt D16Y8 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how do you check the continuity?</TD></TR></TABLE>Multimeter that has a continuity test, sometimes called a diode test.