I am making the assumption here that I would add a header, exhaust, intake and engine management with tuning or off the shelf software (ie from Jackson), at least with the FI options. I would like info from guys who have first hand knowledge of how well an option works and how much it cost to get the whole project up and running. For example adding the header and exhuast to go with a turbo charger.

Reliability is the other issue of critical importance. My ep3 is my DD, so whatever I do needs to be pretty bullet proof. For just this reason I have leaned towards a low miles swap or a supercharger. These options would also seem to need the least amount of tuning.

I would really appreciate any insightful feedback. Thanks!

 

since it's your daily driver I think that you're safest bet is to go with a turbo kit. More specifically the Greddy. It's ideal because it gives you a good amount of horse and you don't have to make it a full blown drag car to give it the power that the greddy does. It's safe and reliable. It also has alot of potential if you tune it with Kpro. A swap IMO is just unnessesary for a DD. the greddy will give you the power you desire without having to go to the extreme or hassle of swapping or guttin'. But then again, it's your car, so do whatever you want.

 

i have to disagree with the greddy. i think a turbo car, particularly with the greddy, becomes a bit more 'problematic' as a daily driver. the greddy gives you just enough to put in the kit, but i think a lot of their pieces are prone to failure. i'm especially referring to the lines and hoses. the k-pro will help with the kit tremendously, but unless you are a good DIY, i think the JRSC is a very well-made DD item.

certain items should be done with a turbo, such as tapping the oil pan. if you decide to go with a turbo, please find out which upgrades you will need to truly make it more reliable (grade 8 or 10 studs for the turbo, stainless braided oil lines, heat shielding, pyrometer, etc.).

the potential hp yields are lower with the jrsc, but i think the driveability is far more manageable and reliable. something to consider is the ability to continue driving the car *should* something fail. i think it's considerably easier to do that with the jrsc. also, should you choose to sell the car, it is far easier to remove the JRSC and leave fewer signs of it being in the car than with a turbo.

the engine swap is a great consideration, but considering the need for a 6speed transmission to fully use that engine's capabilities, it soon becomes a bit cost-prohibitive. again, should you choose to sell the car in the future, it would be a bit harder to do so with another non-stock motor and transmission. sure, there is always someone looking for that, but your audience is far smaller than those looking for one closer to stock. it would also be impossible to recoup your expenses in an engine swap, if you sell the car.

maybe some of the issues i mention don't concern you, but i think they should be taken into consideration.

good luck!

 

Good points kung fu. Whatever I do I want it to be installed right. I can afford to add fi or a swap or cams, but I cant afford to be continually doing maintence to the car or have it down for long periods of time because the oil line blew off and the turbo expired. Not to mention if I had to start borrowing my wifes car all the time she would kill me.

Although resale is important, that is not a concern at the top of my list right now. I bought this car when I did just to get the hatch, knowing the coupe was coming. The car is a purchase not a lease and I drive less than 10k a year so I will have it for years to come. But your point is made, sometime my business will grow and I will want a BMW or Skyline GTR or something crazy to make for all the years of sensible cars.

I have really considered the blower for the ease of installation and the fact that Jackson makes all the supporting parts that would make the thing really go with K Pro. I think they claim 225 whp with the race setup. If the blower is choice 1a then the swap 1b. I know the blower is the most practical and may be fairly economical, but I get really excited thinking about the higher reving VTEC goodness of a k20a2. Not to mention all the na power that could come out of it.

Having said all that I would really like to know what some of you guys are running, how much it cost and how hard it was to install.

Thanks again!

 

I think the swap, though while not the cheapest, would be the best way to go for the power. With the 225 or so that Jackson says with the A3 engine, you would swap the A2 engine and with extremely mild cams and tuning make more than that number. I would go with the A2 swap

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TrueZen &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I think the swap, though while not the cheapest, would be the best way to go for the power. With the 225 or so that Jackson says with the A3 engine, you would swap the A2 engine and with extremely mild cams and tuning make more than that number. I would go with the A2 swap </TD></TR></TABLE>

What is the going rate for a complete a2 swap, more or less? Have any of guys had luck finding swaps and knowing how many miles are on them when you get them. That is one thing that makes me nervous about buying a swap, not knowing how many miles are on the engine and who was beating the hell out of it before I had it.

 

GReddy turbo kit w/ GReddy FMIC; 9:1:1 Forged internals

 

giff,

what is your mechanical skill level? what is the most complicated job you have done yourself on a car?

 

the cams i'm producing offer a very favorable bang to the buck ratio.

The cams are very reliable, but the most reliable way would be a swap, however it's not the most economical. You can't beat the reliablity of a factory built honda motor. that is just plain fact.

there's a lot of things to consider, but usually the determing factor is budget. with enough $$$ you can make anything "reliable"

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kung fu grip &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">giff,

what is your mechanical skill level? what is the most complicated job you have done yourself on a car?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I have replaced wheel bearings, changed disc brakes, replaced a diverter valve, of course oil and filter changes and a bunch of body work. I think I could do the work on a supercharger, but am not sure about a swap. I actually think the really hard part about a swap would be the lack of having the car on a lift and no engine/tranny lift to lower and raise the engine.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by djvtoner &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">GReddy turbo kit w/ GReddy FMIC; 9:1:1 Forged internals </TD></TR></TABLE>

Now that sounds pretty expensive. Anytime I hear the word forged in conjunction with any engine part I start to imagine what my wife will say when the credit card bill shows up.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TrueZen &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I think the swap, though while not the cheapest, would be the best way to go for the power. With the 225 or so that Jackson says with the A3 engine, you would swap the A2 engine and with extremely mild cams and tuning make more than that number. I would go with the A2 swap </TD></TR></TABLE>

That sure doesnt sound bad. What should I expect to pay for a complete a2 swap? Do any of you guys know anyone who sells them with verifiable miles?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chunky &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the cams i'm producing offer a very favorable bang to the buck ratio.

The cams are very reliable, but the most reliable way would be a swap, however it's not the most economical. You can't beat the reliablity of a factory built honda motor. that is just plain fact.

there's a lot of things to consider, but usually the determing factor is budget. with enough $$$ you can make anything "reliable"</TD></TR></TABLE>

Are your cams basically running VTEC all the times on both the intake and exhaust? Do you have a package price for the cams, spring, retainers and k pro?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by giff74 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Are your cams basically running VTEC all the times on both the intake and exhaust? Do you have a package price for the cams, spring, retainers and k pro?</TD></TR></TABLE>

well, given the setup of the VTEC system on the k20a3, one valve is always running the high lift high duration profile. the other valve switches on and off at the vtec threshold.

there is a package price that will be officially announced when they are ready for sale.

 

How much have some of you guys paid for your entire k20a2 swaps, were you able to verify miles and where did you get them?

Thanks