NO INTAKE, SAFE??
Okay here's the deal I was out messing around racing and all of a suddenly I noticed a big noise difference, more deeper and throaty, and at high rpms my car was sucking in air like crazy. I felt it had more power. Here's why this change occured, my intake slipped out of the rubber tube connecting it to the Intake Manifold. So my question is this, how safe is it run it like that? I've seen dudes just slap the air filter straight to the Intake Manifold, no intake pipe, is this basically what that would be like? Is that safe?
Ive seen people who have done it. I dont think it sounds as toned without the pipe and I prefer a short ram.
It is possible that the air rushing at a certain velocity, created by the intake arm tubing design, produces more HP.
Safe though... yup.
It is possible that the air rushing at a certain velocity, created by the intake arm tubing design, produces more HP.
Safe though... yup.
Why would the bending in the pipe create more HP. I thought it just has to do with being bent in order to fit the engine bay correctly and comfortably. This is like running individual throttle bodies I would imagine. Just quicker access to the air to be sucked into the Intake Manifold.
No, It will create more of an "Air column" with a short pipe attached, there is a negligible increase in drag with a single bend mandrel intake pipe... You prefer the sound better now? What intake did you have that came off?
Im not saying there is alot of power difference, but a little bit. It sounds real good with a short ram and looks better under the hood than a big void with ac lines and wire looms.
ITB's are a completely different story.
Get it dyno'd if you have the chance both ways.
Im not saying there is alot of power difference, but a little bit. It sounds real good with a short ram and looks better under the hood than a big void with ac lines and wire looms.
ITB's are a completely different story.
Get it dyno'd if you have the chance both ways.
I had a short ram. I mean dude I didn't even know it was off thats why I was tripping out it sounded like a really mean machine. It felt it was producing more power too at the same time. True it'll not look as good, but I'm not too worried considering I don't pop my hood around others anyways only when I need to at home or if something comes up.
wait, so you were driving without a filter on for a while? isn't that a bad thing? like, sucking crap like leaves or big pieces of dirt and **** in to your engine would be.... bad...right? did i misread this or something? damn, its 3:30am i should be sleeping
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plus if you just slap the filter right on to the inatke manifold your gunna be sucking in hot air. and everyone nows hot air does not make more hp this is why people use cold air intakes.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by teggy182 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">plus if you just slap the filter right on to the inatke manifold your gunna be sucking in hot air. and everyone nows hot air does not make more hp this is why people use cold air intakes.</TD></TR></TABLE>
tests have shown that the ambient air temperature under the hood is the same as the ambient air temperature outside when the car is moving at speed.
You want to keep that tube on there. You want to have a good flow to your intake manifold, why?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Michael Delany »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the most important factor is not cold air. Instead, it's the diameter and length that determines powerband location...the worse thing you can do as a newb is choose one that's too small for your eventual peak power goal. Not much more to say than that...
Those tapered Carbon Fiber intakes? Great for low to mid rpms. Looks great as well.
But at high rpms? Your worst nightmare for high rpm'ers since the taper increases flow speed into the TB entry at the bend of the intake. Net result at higher flow speeds at higher rpms?: turbulence at the TB entry. Basic flow dynamics at bends...read up on it and learn. A neat trick is to open up the diameter just before the bend and slow flow down so it doesn't shear and induce turbulence as the rpms rise and entry flow speed into the bend rises at the same time. Or you can open up the diameter just before it reaches the TB after the bend to slow down the flow at high rpm and hopefully reduce the turbulence that way.</TD></TR></TABLE>
tests have shown that the ambient air temperature under the hood is the same as the ambient air temperature outside when the car is moving at speed.
You want to keep that tube on there. You want to have a good flow to your intake manifold, why?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Michael Delany »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the most important factor is not cold air. Instead, it's the diameter and length that determines powerband location...the worse thing you can do as a newb is choose one that's too small for your eventual peak power goal. Not much more to say than that...
Those tapered Carbon Fiber intakes? Great for low to mid rpms. Looks great as well.
But at high rpms? Your worst nightmare for high rpm'ers since the taper increases flow speed into the TB entry at the bend of the intake. Net result at higher flow speeds at higher rpms?: turbulence at the TB entry. Basic flow dynamics at bends...read up on it and learn. A neat trick is to open up the diameter just before the bend and slow flow down so it doesn't shear and induce turbulence as the rpms rise and entry flow speed into the bend rises at the same time. Or you can open up the diameter just before it reaches the TB after the bend to slow down the flow at high rpm and hopefully reduce the turbulence that way.</TD></TR></TABLE>
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Neptronix
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Jun 25, 2007 09:39 PM




