Neptronix

I'm considering getting the '#1 Number one' Cold air intake for my '99 DX Coupe. I had one on my chevy and it was allright. Is anyone here running one of these? and if so.. how's the fitment?

p.s. removed the air intake resonator today out of curiosity. I gained .05 horsepower. Sweet.

Neptronix

Yeah, that makes sense. I see it this way: i can either spend $100 and change the filter later for ~$50, or spend $200-$300+ so i tend to go for cheaper intakes.
my only concern is that my cavalier had two holes on the intake, and the intake temp. sensor was hard to get in.. the civic has three holes on the intake.. so i wonder if anyone has had fitment issues worse than the ones i had before..
yeah.

Archidictus

Leave your stock intake on. Bolt-ons don't do dick for power on your engine, so don't waste the money. Save up for boost or a swap or - better yet - a real car!

Neptronix

I knew someone would say that.
I'm sticking to my stock engine until it dies. I drive about 700 miles a week and i enjoy getting gas mileage in the upper 30's. If i can squeeze 5-10 extra horses out of this puppy i'm happy.

Syndacate

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Archidictus &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Leave your stock intake on. Bolt-ons don't do dick for power on your engine, so don't waste the money. Save up for boost or a swap or - better yet - a real car!</TD></TR></TABLE>

Amen to that.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NathanMorris &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">an intake is an intake if you're going for anything other than the big brands... the bigger brands have arguable differences. AEM and Injen do fit superior to most 'generics' for sure, and they sometimes do make a little more power - they def. have better 'stock' filters. The biggest difference I see is the filter... cheapest intake pipe you can find + quality filter = good as anything else for most people.

Nathan</TD></TR></TABLE>

^^ load of crap.

All ****'s the same, it's just piping, it doesn't matter worth of crap, hell, some people make their own.

Just run a good filter at the tip like a K&N and you're peachy.

Or you can keep the stock box and get a K&N drop-in filter. Only thing that matters is the filter at the tip - and it has nothing to do with horsepower either. Piping is all the same, aluminum is aluminum, regardless of which company it's from.

Even with a 150 dollar short ram Injen take will get ya 1 or 2hp AT THE ENGINE, making a negligible difference at the wheels, the only "hp difference you can feel" is the throttle response increasing due to the shorter tubing.

Go with one of two things.
A) K&N drop in (or performance brand drop in into STOCK INTAKE BOX)
B) $30 e-bay intake arm and slap a real AEM or K&N filter on it

Paying $340 for a V2 or some ridiculous price like that is pathetic.

THE V2 MADE 12HP ON A CHEVY COBALT SS!

That's supercharged, and it only made a 12hp difference, these aren't V8's, it's not an LS1 in ur DX, it's not a 440 in the EX, headers won't give u 40hp, save your money.

Check this out, right here:
4-2-1 Two Piece Headers
4-2-1 Brushed Stainless Steel Header, Two Piece
HHS5013 $502.43

V2 Intakes
V2 Air Induction System
24-6014 $348.47

Single Canister Exhaust
Single Canister Stainless Steel Cat-Back Exhaust System
SCS7020 $485.10

Now you're up to $1,336 for your I/H/E - and you gained 10-20hp at the flywheel, possibly 3-10hp at the wheels. Yes, some can argue that you can get a cheaper header, but even if it's 200 dollars cheaper, that's still $1,136.

Don't you get it? That's 75% of the money you need to go turbo and make 200hp at the wheels - ONE HUNDRED PERCENT INCREASE IN POWER.

Boost or stock, if you're gonna go basic azz I/H/E like me, utilize what you have - don't go out of ur way for name brand stuff.

I'm running a cheap **** pipe I bought from a member on H-T with a K&N drop-in, the exhaust was just a pipe that was custom bent (the old owner had a pipe bender) so I kinda got lucky with that, and a no-name header, which is just as good as any DC-Sports header on a 4 cylinder motor.

It cost me $0.

Cheap piping is everywhere, just slap a real filter on it .

As for catbacks, they sound nice, no extra power, but they def. sound nice. Just see if you can pick one up used that's not rusted to ****.

I/H/E can be built in a stupid fashion, or a smart one; pick smart, it doesn't do **** for your engine.

akunamatta

actually a lot of the name brand intakes are powdercoated and are proven to resist heat more effectivley.... but still its negligible.

egsleepercivic

if you have already removed the baffle just get a K&n drop in and leave it alone

Neptronix

Hey dude.. thanks for your reply. Nice to find a fellow budget ricer on here.. ha ha.

I usually just like to do pulleys + ignition + intake cuz i find i don't take a hit in mpg. Gains are little, but really.. have headers and exhaust done anything for ya?

Still no answers on anyone getting the NOPI intake -_-
Maybe i'll just get the k&n drop in 'till i can afford a b18 swap. the $150 i wanted to spend is a nice down payment on the swap now that you dudes mentioned it.

word.

egsleepercivic

by baffle I mean the silencer in the bumper, i don't think this makes me a ricer