How much of a bitch to change this
Are you insane!? You don't have to drop the gas pan or anything like that. I just did mine in like 30 minutes!
Just to make sure on one thing here, mine is an LX but it shouldn't make a difference in where the filter is (Driver side firewall towards the bottom).
1 Get a rag and place it under the 17mm nut on your fuel rail towards the driver side.
2. Crack the nut and let the gasoline drain from there into the rag. This is relieving the pressure on the system.
3. Use a huge extension and remove the 17mm bolt from the top/out side of the fuel filter.
4. Remove the hose and take care to retrieve the two washers.
5. Remove the 14mm nut on the bottom of the filter. This was the most bitching part to do. I did it with a combo wrench. REMEMBER, LEFTY LOOSEY RIGHTY TIGHTY.
6. Remove the 10mm bolt holding the filter in it's support bracket. You may have to remove the 10mm bolt holding the bracket to the car. I did.
7. Remove the filter and replace with new filter. Reattach to bracket. (And bracket to car if needed)
8. Reattach the 14mm bolt/feedline that goes into the bottom/in side of the filter.
9. Replace the washer (with a new one preferably) on the 17mm bolt that goes into the top/out side of the filter. Make sure the bolt is going through the right side of the fuel line you removed.
10. Replace the washer on the fuel rail (again, preferably with a new one) and attach the fuel line to the rail. Place 17mm nut on and tighten.
11. Make sure all nuts and bolts are tightened.
12. Turn key into the run position a few times, making sure to hear the fuel pump priming, and then start the car.
13. Check for leaks. I have a trouble spot with the fuel line coming from the filters top/out side. I just had to tighten it a little more. If no leaks, then congratulations, you're done. Have a beer and if you're underage, have a coke.
On a side note, it helped me out by removing the 10mm bolt holding a wire loom to the intake manifold. It game me another inch of space and it was much needed.
Just to make sure on one thing here, mine is an LX but it shouldn't make a difference in where the filter is (Driver side firewall towards the bottom).
1 Get a rag and place it under the 17mm nut on your fuel rail towards the driver side.
2. Crack the nut and let the gasoline drain from there into the rag. This is relieving the pressure on the system.
3. Use a huge extension and remove the 17mm bolt from the top/out side of the fuel filter.
4. Remove the hose and take care to retrieve the two washers.
5. Remove the 14mm nut on the bottom of the filter. This was the most bitching part to do. I did it with a combo wrench. REMEMBER, LEFTY LOOSEY RIGHTY TIGHTY.
6. Remove the 10mm bolt holding the filter in it's support bracket. You may have to remove the 10mm bolt holding the bracket to the car. I did.
7. Remove the filter and replace with new filter. Reattach to bracket. (And bracket to car if needed)
8. Reattach the 14mm bolt/feedline that goes into the bottom/in side of the filter.
9. Replace the washer (with a new one preferably) on the 17mm bolt that goes into the top/out side of the filter. Make sure the bolt is going through the right side of the fuel line you removed.
10. Replace the washer on the fuel rail (again, preferably with a new one) and attach the fuel line to the rail. Place 17mm nut on and tighten.
11. Make sure all nuts and bolts are tightened.
12. Turn key into the run position a few times, making sure to hear the fuel pump priming, and then start the car.
13. Check for leaks. I have a trouble spot with the fuel line coming from the filters top/out side. I just had to tighten it a little more. If no leaks, then congratulations, you're done. Have a beer and if you're underage, have a coke.
On a side note, it helped me out by removing the 10mm bolt holding a wire loom to the intake manifold. It game me another inch of space and it was much needed.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95ACM »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">A big bitch, you have to lower the gas tank to do it the right way, or cut a hole in the metal behind the back seat, not recommended but its been done.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Are you kidding dude??? Fuel filter sits in engine compartment bay, it has nothing to do with dropping the gas tank. I guess it is hard because of tight space but could be done by anybody.
Are you kidding dude??? Fuel filter sits in engine compartment bay, it has nothing to do with dropping the gas tank. I guess it is hard because of tight space but could be done by anybody.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Obsidian »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">1 Get a rag and place it under the 17mm nut on your fuel rail towards the driver side.
5. Remove the 14mm nut on the bottom of the filter. This was the most bitching part to do. I did it with a combo wrench. REMEMBER, LEFTY LOOSEY RIGHTY TIGHTY.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I agree with you on everything but the ones I quoted you on.
You DO NOT have to remove the line from the fuel rail, only the line on the filter.
To remove the pressure in the system just remove your fuel cap.
The only tool to use on the 14mm bolt on the hard line on the bottom is a flared crowfoot wrench. this is the easiest way to access the bolt without stripping it. You can easily access this bolt under the car with a long extension attached to the crowfoot wrench.
Yes it is a pain in the *** to do. It took me about 30-45 min to do it today.
Here is a picture of what a flared crowsfoot wrench looks like, you can get them at Sears, Auto Zone, ect....
5. Remove the 14mm nut on the bottom of the filter. This was the most bitching part to do. I did it with a combo wrench. REMEMBER, LEFTY LOOSEY RIGHTY TIGHTY.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I agree with you on everything but the ones I quoted you on.
You DO NOT have to remove the line from the fuel rail, only the line on the filter.
To remove the pressure in the system just remove your fuel cap.
The only tool to use on the 14mm bolt on the hard line on the bottom is a flared crowfoot wrench. this is the easiest way to access the bolt without stripping it. You can easily access this bolt under the car with a long extension attached to the crowfoot wrench.
Yes it is a pain in the *** to do. It took me about 30-45 min to do it today.
Here is a picture of what a flared crowsfoot wrench looks like, you can get them at Sears, Auto Zone, ect....
I went and bought the Haynes book for it, it is not in the gas tank, it's definately, in the engine compartment.

The car has a hesitation/shudder around 1800-2800 RPMS.
Any ideas of what it could be? If I gas it hard it goes away, and it goes away with the shift of the car, because of the rpm change.
I'm thinking possibly gummed up EGR, or a dirty injector.
Any thoughts?

The car has a hesitation/shudder around 1800-2800 RPMS.
Any ideas of what it could be? If I gas it hard it goes away, and it goes away with the shift of the car, because of the rpm change.
I'm thinking possibly gummed up EGR, or a dirty injector.
Any thoughts?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95ACM »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">A big bitch, you have to lower the gas tank to do it the right way, or cut a hole in the metal behind the back seat, not recommended but its been done.</TD></TR></TABLE>
WTF? Unless Honda magically relocated the fuel filter, I've been replacing mine in the engine compartment. Though that is no easy task either. It takes awhile to do but can be done by anyone.
WTF? Unless Honda magically relocated the fuel filter, I've been replacing mine in the engine compartment. Though that is no easy task either. It takes awhile to do but can be done by anyone.
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vietintegboi
Acura Integra
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Aug 20, 2006 01:35 PM




