I recently did a motor swap in my eg.
00 B16A2 Block w/ 98 B18C1 Head (both bone stock)
Got the car started. But it's overheating!
The Upper Radiator Hose is HOT. &
the Lower Hose (running to the thermostat is COLD!!!).
What is the Problem w/ this??? Never Had this Before.
Replaced the Thermostat 3 times. and changed out the water pump.
REcheck the Water Hose Routing 20+ times Getting Sick of this.
things i checked:
rad cap 1x
50/50 5x
fan operating
water pump 2x
termostat 3x
Heater hose 10x
Is there a difference in the B16/B18 Water Pipe (back of the engine block underneath the intake manifold) ???
Help me out Guys

 

do you have a new radiator or old one?

i've seen brand new radiators clogged from factory=not letting water pass=overheating..

are you bleedng the system right?

 

well its the old rad. which is still good.
can't seem to bleed out the system. i just add 50/50
what is a good method of bleeding the system?

 

i use a funnel bleeder at work, it holds coolant while the engine runs..matco,snapon have the same tool...

or just let it run with the cap off the radiator,and keep on adding coolant...

 

Ive tried the Funnel.
New systoms:
When i take the car for a spin. & back
open the hood seems like the lower rad. hose isnt doing its job!!! still cold.
the water canister is bursting bubbles and boiling???
Rad. cap seems to be fine.
can a head gaket be the cause of the lower hose cold?
and control the flow of the water system?

 

is there a bleeder valve on the block?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by spoonhatchblack &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ive tried the Funnel.
New systoms:
When i take the car for a spin. & back
open the hood seems like the lower rad. hose isnt doing its job!!! still cold.
the water canister is bursting bubbles and boiling???
Rad. cap seems to be fine.
can a head gaket be the cause of the lower hose cold? and control the flow of the water system?</TD></TR></TABLE>

possibly, if you put it on backwards it can mybe, im not sure never had this happen to me before..

 

Make sure your waterpump is moving. Did you change the thermostat? It could be stuck shut as well.

To bleed the system, do this. When the car is cold, take off the radiator cap and start the car. Top off the radiator and keep topping off until the fan turns on at least once. At idle this could take around 20min. Make sure the lower radiator hose is hot, top off once again and put the cap back on. If you see a lot of bubbles or a milky foam in the radiator, this could signal a bad, or incorrectly installed headgasket.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM_Ej &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Make sure your waterpump is moving. Did you change the thermostat? It could be stuck shut as well.

To bleed the system, do this. When the car is cold, take off the radiator cap and start the car. Top off the radiator and keep topping off until the fan turns on at least once. At idle this could take around 20min. Make sure the lower radiator hose is hot, top off once again and put the cap back on. If you see a lot of bubbles or a milky foam in the radiator, this could signal a bad, or incorrectly installed headgasket. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Thermostat is changed. It looks like its stuck?? this is my 3rd t-stat.
when the car starts up. everthing warms up, except for the lower hose. even after 20 mins???
there are no signs of milkly foam in the rad. or in the oil.
so what is this problem?
How can you check the water pump if its moving?

 

i've had the same problem. its your radiator. it has a small leak in it and it will just bleed the pressure from the pump so therefore it will not force not hot water to the thermostat to open it.

try borrowing someones radiator and run it. i can almost gaurentee it will solve your problem.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DOHCtorTHRUST &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i've had the same problem. its your radiator. it has a small leak in it and it will just bleed the pressure from the pump so therefore it will not force not hot water to the thermostat to open it.

try borrowing someones radiator and run it. i can almost gaurentee it will solve your problem.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks 4 the Input.
I'll see if i can give that a shot.

 

where did u buy your thermostat at? go get one from honda its ur best bet. had the same problem before

 

to properly bleed your system, have your heater on full blast so coolant is circulated through the whole system

 

Thanks Alot 4 the Help Guys.
As for the T-Stat Got it from AutoZone.
Looks Generic, compared to OE.

 

Did you finally solve this problem? I have exactly the same gong on now.

 

Maybe I need to clarify things a bit more.

I have car equipped with B16A2 and we are building race car of it. Engine has been stupped about last 6 months radiator removed. Now we installed new radiator (from some accord) and fired the engine and kept it on idle mostly.

Lower water hose stayed cold and the fan was not running at all. Still temperature on the gauge raised up to maximum and upper hose was hot. (Luckily I installed the gauge in the first place at some point.)

My first suspected part is thermostat, but if somebody has had similar problems and is willing to help it would be nice. I`d like to point out that 6 months before when engine was stopped everything worked fine.

 

check your water pump. its ur only option now. by the way wat ecu did u use?