I have completed my engine rebuild with crower rods, SRP pistons, ACL bearings. I was very liberal with the assembly lube on all of the parts, including the head. I really oiled the cylinder walls to make sure that they were clean after I deglazed the walls. It starts to smoke just a little after about 30-40 seconds after I start the car. It is very faint and just smells somewhat clean. It is only coming out of the exhaust area and I did make sure the oil feed line for the turbo was on. The search feature has been down forever. Has anyone experienced this after the rebuild? Any input would be helpful. Thanks.

 

now that you've rebuilt it you probably should run it for more than 30 seconds before diagnosing any problems with the rebuild. one question that interests me is whether you actually bored the cylinders to fit the new pistons, just honed them and put stock-sized slugs in there, or bored them to, say, 0.020" over and then ordered 0.020" over pistons. the first way is the best and IMO the only way it should ever be done.

 

it will smoke at first when you start it, even the engine bay will smoke to burn off any oil spills coolant or water in it, but the reason for it smoking is because all that assembly lube is being burnt off inside the motor. So what you should ideally do is, let the car fully warm up, and take it for the 20 mile drive motoman style, hitting it hard at low boost, after your 20 mile drive it shouldnt be really smoking.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95lstegman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">now that you've rebuilt it you probably should run it for more than 30 seconds before diagnosing any problems with the rebuild. one question that interests me is whether you actually bored the cylinders to fit the new pistons, just honed them and put stock-sized slugs in there, or bored them to, say, 0.020" over and then ordered 0.020" over pistons. the first way is the best and IMO the only way it should ever be done.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I ordered regular size pistons after I checked that the cylinders were still within spec, which they were. So I made sure that they were 0.0035" smaller than the bore with feeler gauges (kind of grabs on 0.003 and then doesn't move on 0.004") I would have loved to overbored by 0.020 or whatever, even get darton sleeves, but I am on a time constraint.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ITSME4G63 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">it will smoke at first when you start it, even the engine bay will smoke to burn off any oil spills coolant or water in it, but the reason for it smoking is because all that assembly lube is being burnt off inside the motor. So what you should ideally do is, let the car fully warm up, and take it for the 20 mile drive motoman style, hitting it hard at low boost, after your 20 mile drive it shouldnt be really smoking.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I figured it could be the assembly lube and crap, but I wanted other input from experienced people. I plan on just letting it warm up and flush the coolant system a few times to make sure that all the oil is out. I plan on having the car towed to the tuner, since it is within 10 miles Then I'll drive it hard out of the dyno Thanks guys....I'll post everything up within the week.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blaze the chemi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I plan on having the car towed to the tuner, since it is within 10 miles Then I'll drive it hard out of the dyno Thanks guys....I'll post everything up within the week. </TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ITSME4G63 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So what you should ideally do is, let the car fully warm up, and take it for the 20 mile drive motoman style, hitting it hard at low boost, after your 20 mile drive it shouldnt be really smoking.</TD></TR></TABLE>
i will only say this once. i would REALLY recommend breaking in the motor slower than this. i mean, why rebuild only to be burning oil again in a few thousand miles? new motors shouldn't burn any oil, really people. but since you're both so excited about beating the crap out of a fresh 0 mile motor, knock yourselves out. just don't wonder what's happening in &lt;5000 miles.

 

From what I've witnessed, the break-it-in-hard-method is widely accepted here on H-T as the very best way to do it. Sure as hell don't see this as a reason for catastrophic failure.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blaze the chemi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I ordered regular size pistons after I checked that the cylinders were still within spec, So I made sure that they were 0.0035" smaller than the bore with feeler gauges </TD></TR></TABLE>


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Well just an update. The car smoked for about 15 minutes then it went away as I was flushing the coolant system out. The car is running great and did well at the dyno. I have a slight problem due to the ignition somewhere in the system. Other than that the car is running and should be broken in after 37 dyno pulls, plus the 100 miles or so since then.

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1385481