i know this has been gone over before but i had a couple questions i haven't seen answers for. i was curious if a b16 head b18 block with a t3 t4 turbo would be a good setup? what would the redline be of the motor running a stock b18 tranny? can i use my chipped b16 ecu?

 

yes its good...and yes for the ECU...but i wouldn't take the LS block above 8k because its not made for high revs....

 

okay, first of all.. yes the b18/b16 turbo also known as LS/VTEC turbo is a great setup assuming you do this right with no shortcuts..
what b-series "stock" transmission are you using? the LS transmission?
that would be your best bet for a transmission because of the long gearing which would be better for your turbo app.
the b18 LS block is fine for your turbo and VTEC application.. but the pistons and rods should most definitely be upgraded so that you can make more power as well as start to rev higher.. the block can withstand the revs.. its the amount of boost you need to worry about the block for..
and for the b16 head.. great choice.. one of the best flowing b-series heads out there.
just upgrade your valvetrain for a higher revving motor(assuming you have upgraded low compression pistons and rods) you should be able to run TUNED correctly around 15-20 pounds of boost on the stock built motor and rev to about 8300-8500.
build the bottom end for boost and you can run about 25-30 pounds when tuned correctly.. good luck.

 

okay, here we go. no, the motor you're describing, the notorious LS/VTEC, is a 1.8 liter engine, and therefore is way too small for a t3/t4 dinosaur. don't get me wrong, some 1.8 liters actually make 450hp, but that turbo was designed for a diesel truck, so anyone with the money and the ***** to make 450hp really should be able to afford something much more efficient which also spools up a lot faster. if you're considering a turbo for your honda, do two things: 1) research a ton. if you don't LOVE reading, don't bother thinking about turbocharging your honda. or just pay somebody $3k+ already has the requisite knowledge, and 2) be prepared to spend a lot more than $1500. $1500 gets you a bare bones setup that runs, but has many drawbacks that take away from the excitement of boost, such as lame reliability, lame power, lame fuel economy, lame power onset, lame lame etc. if you REALLY know what you're doing, you might be able to do well for $1500 getting some great bargains, but i'm sure that's not the case since you asked the question.

 

A t3/04 is NOT designed for a semi. On top of that you really cant just say "T3/T4" because they are not all equal. Some T3s wont produce over 350whp while others can make upwards of 500whp.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95 integra &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">A t3/04 is NOT designed for a semi. On top of that you really cant just say "T3/T4" because they are not all equal. Some T3s wont produce over 350whp while others can make upwards of 500whp. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I think Jason was taking a shot at the turbo's ability to (or lack there of) spool up....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95 integra &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">A t3/04 is NOT designed for a semi. On top of that you really cant just say "T3/T4" because they are not all equal. Some T3s wont produce over 350whp while others can make upwards of 500whp. </TD></TR></TABLE>
i didn't say a semi. i said a diesel truck. ever heard of a pickup truck? yeah, the t3/t4 technology is way older than i am. yes, i was referring to spool-up. I wouldn't even run one on my SR20DET, which is larger and has a larger, longer intake manifold than a Honda. if i was on a budget i'd much rather have T28 or T3 internals in T25 housings, for instance, or just a T3 mill if you have a T3 turbo manifold, since the T3 is much better sized for Hondas and will only set you back about $300 rebuilt.

 

If what your asking,is can an lsvtec hold boost,well that depends on the build.Do some research,find amechanic who has worked with lsvtecs,dont skimp on the build,and you should be fine. As far as redline my lsv can rev to 8500,but i find myself shifting at 8 grand. The higher you rev,the shorter your motors gonna last.And ive seen lots of people running t3/04 on a 1.8,but as others have said,slow spool on small motors.Good luck.

 

my friend(known on honda-tech as 93JDMHONDA) has a t4 precision sc61 turbo on his ls/vtec setup and is making great power as well as great reliability. the motor is in a eg hatch.. his previous setup.. which was an ls/vtec with a t3/t4 spooled too fast for his liking.. he opted for an even larger turbo and bigger numbers.. so what im saying is not all t3/t4 turbos are going to spool up right away.. and not all people who build these motors necessarily want quick spool up.. for many reasons.. one being fuel economy now that gas is 3.40 for 93 octane..... and yet still, with these large turbos and ls/vtec setups.. people like him and others can actually make 500whp on this type of motor setup..

 

for $1500 you can put together a whole kit, the more time you spend, the more money you save, i get 30mpg, and i my tires don't grip over 6k in boost (with 205 wide tires), the more research you do, the better, don't just jump into buying stuff that you don't understand

 

ls/vtec hx35 hybrid match here...

also some mis-info being spread....an ls tranny isnt better for boost...it depends on what you want....a ls will increase wheel speeds leading to more wheelspin on a higher-power app...a gsr-b16 tranny will be more suitable...if you dont want to be cruizin at 4k in 5th...get a ls 5th gear and call it a day...

boost will suffice for more than enough power for the average joe...i wanted more torque off the line and the ability to spool up a turbo a hair quicker...so i opted for the ls/vtec...mostly because not many people run it in my area...and it adds to the custom effect of my car...its not rocket science buildin a motor..jeeze i built mine high 99% of the time...its just takin you time and makin sure you built it to spec....i wouldnt take it much past 8k w/o more than the basic upgrades of rod bolts & upgraded water & oil pumps....also youll want to upgrade valvetrain etc....a budget would also help nail this down a lil better....and no reliable turbo kit can be made for 1500...even if you get hella good deals...its just not gonna last...so spend the $ the first time around and youll be more than happy!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LSRracing95 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">my friend(known on honda-tech as 93JDMHONDA) has a t4 precision sc61 turbo on his ls/vtec setup and is making great power as well as great reliability. the motor is in a eg hatch.. his previous setup.. which was an ls/vtec with a t3/t4 spooled too fast for his liking.. he opted for an even larger turbo and bigger numbers.. so what im saying is not all t3/t4 turbos are going to spool up right away.. and not all people who build these motors necessarily want quick spool up.. for many reasons.. one being fuel economy now that gas is 3.40 for 93 octane..... and yet still, with these large turbos and ls/vtec setups.. people like him and others can actually make 500whp on this type of motor setup..</TD></TR></TABLE>
if you don't want quick spool-up, you pretty much want a big gay vtak, right? just kidding. it's just that waiting so long for my power pisses me off. it gives ricers and other ho's an extra few seconds to enjoy life, which just isn't right mwahahaha

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by drumking15 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ls/vtec hx35 hybrid match here...
also some mis-info being spread....an ls tranny isnt better for boost...it depends on what you want....a ls will increase wheel speeds leading to more wheelspin on a higher-power app...a gsr-b16 tranny will be more suitable...if you dont want to be cruizin at 4k in 5th...get a ls 5th gear and call it a day...</TD></TR></TABLE>
excuse me, you've missed the point of gear ratios. an LS will give you better traction because in each gear, the actual wheel torque is lower, plain and simple. don't believe me? consult a science book. torque = r x F. r is the radius from center to the force. take it backwards and it means that it will take more torque from the axle to break traction on a given tire.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by drumking15 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">and no reliable turbo kit can be made for 1500...even if you get hella good deals...its just not gonna last...so spend the $ the first time around and youll be more than happy!</TD></TR></TABLE>
^^^my personal belief, but i knew if i said it outright somebody would flame the heck out of me "blah blah my friend made his turbo kit for $800 with a ball bearing turbo and stainless manifold and he custom tuned it himself and made like elevendy twelve horsepower blah blah". so yeah, it's been said. try not to flame and spew BS from your mouth (fingers), whoever it is going to be that does it first (and second, and third . . .)

 

a ls tranny is gear longer...which you agree w/....so in essence a longer geared tranny will also increase wheel speed at a given rpm....if the car makes xxx amount of power causing it to loose traction at xxx rpm...then by slowing down wheelspeeds it will in essence reduce wheel speeds resulting in better traction....yes you will shift faster and hit redline faster....but your wheelspeeds will be less causing better traction...you torque model is correct...physics blah blah...but if he is already breakin them loose a slight decrease in torque at the wheels isnt going to solve the problem....you will also get up into useable powerband faster....the best tranny for boost imho is gsr's 1st-3rd and an ls's 4th & 5th gears for more top end wheel speed...and also lower rpm highway traveling...but as anyone boosted knows...fwd cars just dont hook up...best options then...traction bars...stiff motor mounts & good bfg's....slicks if you plan on geetin anything more w/ upgraded axles....

i dont spit bs frm my fingers..if i did that be pretty cool...i speak from experience....a gsr tranny will shave .2-.3 of your et's...and ill put $ on that....why not because of traction...but because you stay in a useable powerband....

can you build a turbokit for 1500...sure if you get parts for free etc....can you buy everypart and still keep it under 1500...buying everything you need...not using friends laptops...chip burners etc....

a lil breakdown:
used turbo: 200-400
used manifold: 200
used wastegate :100
dsm bov & flange:50
used intercooler :150-200
charge pipes & welding & couplings: 200 minimum
dp piping & welding & flanges:150
upgraded fuel pump:75
oil lines :50-75
= roughly 1150
say he gets dsm injectors..chips ecu and has it tuned...
injectors 65
chippiing 50
and having it tuned...a minimum of $125/hr = 250

you can barly make the $1500 mark...i shouldnt say it can be done...but wont be the best reliable setup

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by drumking15 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you can barly make the $1500 mark...i shouldnt say it can be done...but wont be the best reliable setup
</TD></TR></TABLE>
that's what i was getting at. it can be done, but don't blame me when in a year you want more power but A) in order to get there you have the replace half the crap you bought in the first place and B) you're busy spending money on stuff that broke or was broken to begin with because you got used everything. meanwhile, the person that spend more money to begin with got more power, much earlier boost onset, and is now a year later spending money on sleeving his block.

and BTW, even with all that sheeat, you still need a clutch. no stocker is going to take half again the stock torque or more. at least, not for more than a week or two. or you could just never shift under boost and be a slow *****.

also, yes, the GSR tranny is faster, always, in the 1/4 mile. all i'm trying to point out is that the LS tranny will make a fairly significant difference in traction. sure, it's not quite as fast, but the only reason the GSR is faster is because you just burn the crap out of your tires and when you finally get to third gear you have a nice, short gear. with LS you have the chance of actually being able to use second gear. of course, it just depends on your traction situation. if you're using an LS and you're fine in second, try a GSR. if you can still get traction, it'll be faster. if you've got a GSR and you've got no traction in second, try an LS. but then again, if you're boosted, you've probably got a lot better things to worry about than what gears you're running. that's what boost is all about. unless you're a dyno QUEEN, that's right, feminine, and you don't make power until like 4000-5000rpm, in which case traction isn't your biggest concern. jump 1-2 psi and you'll make the same time difference in the 1/4mi as switching to GSR gearing. it's usually cheaper to up the boost than trade transmissions.

and besides, if you had $500 to blow on your tranny, which would you rather have? a Honda ATB diff [with money left over] or slightly shorter gearing? i'd guess the ATB diff will net you better times by a lot than the GSR tranny, and would make the car much more useable. but only if you're not making enough power to break the Honda ATB diff.

 

i guess i come from a higher power standpoint...i ran a ls cable tranny to see the differences between the gsr etc...and it still did not hookup...so in essence i guess if you were in the sub 300 area...a ls 1st & 2nd would be better...w/ a gsr 3rd-4th w/ ls 5th...but not everyone is going to mix and match...im just going from experience...and w. the ls tranny i just spun them faster...which was harder to regain traction in 3rd...w/ the gsr...my wheelspeeds dont increase just that slight extra bit...so when i hit 3rd...and it grabs...its just all go...

and i couldnt agree more on your 1500 comment...thats why i said...it cant be a reliable $1500 kit...it just wont happen

 

whats goin on . i was wondering if i can use a bottom end and transmission out of a 90-93 integra for LS/vtec.