As the topic says, installed some Goodridge Stainless Steel braided lines on a 2000 ITR yesterday, pedal is drastically softer. I did bleed an entire bottle of Motul through the system to get all of the air out. Is there any bleeding necessary on the ABS unit? All replies welcome, thanks in advance.

 

I did not like the pedal feel on my car after installing the stainless braided lines, either.

However, after bleeding and then using the car for a while, the pedal began to feel better.

I have no idea why this is, but many of us have noticed this phenomenon, so don't panic just yet.

 

You need to bleed it till it's firm again. I think it took me 4 bottles of Motul to get it right and I still bled again at the track to be safe.

There is no way to bleed the ABS pump as say with the older NSX's. But some members try bleeding while the car is running at idle and supposedly the ABS pump cycles (I have yet to try this method). But the ABS system is under high pressure and is a closed system from what I understand and is Not suggested for non dealership service.

The SS lines will not provide huge improvement in pedal firmness if that's what you're looking for, they will however give you better feedback and feel where impending lockup/ABS activation and Threshold braking is concerned.

 

I noticed the same thing with my SS brake lines as well and got pretty pissed off after spending $220.00CAD for a mushy pedal.

bled and bled and bled....and finally since the car was up on jackstands, I hopped in, turned the car on, shoved it in first and got the wheels spinning over 10km/h where the ABS pump burps/primes itself....I kept the car running....

and when I rebled, all was beautiful....I can't say for certain if this was correct, but I noticed it worked.... and then I broke my ABS ....and well.....****.... bleeding the car while it is off produces the same effect.... meaning I get a nice firm pedal....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1GreyTeg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You need to bleed it till it's firm again. I think it took me 4 bottles of Motul to get it right....</TD></TR></TABLE>

I guess I did the same thing, now that I think about it...but not all at once.

 

Ok, sounds like they just need to be bled a little more, but 4 bottles? Wow, that seems a bit excessive. Thanks for the feedback.

 

Excessive? We're talking about brakes, they stop your caR and keep you from being dead.

Hope your problems work out.

 

When you remove brake lines, its FAR too common that air goes up into the MC. Your MC will more than likely need to be rebled. Air in lines are ALWAYS going to make your pedal feel mushy. There is not a break in period of SS lines. SS lines dont over time get firmer because they want to, there is air in your lines.

 

...especially if you don't cap the fittings as you take the old lines out.

 

Took me two weeks to get the pedal to how I like it.

But now... the brakes are awesome!

 

Gravity bleeding is your friend...... I installed my lines, and never had a problem after that.

 

Shadup joo

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bbasso &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Took me two weeks to get the pedal to how I like it.
But now... the brakes are awesome!</TD></TR></TABLE>

What do you mean - were you continually bleeding the brakes or did the problem solve it self with continued driving?

When the lines were removed we did not cap them so the brake fluid dribbled out for about an hour and air probably seeped into the system at the same time. I've bled the system about three times (at each wheel) and no more air bubbles seem to be in the lines. The peddle feel is considerably softer with more pedal travel after the brake replacement. The only variable is the Goodrich SS lines instead of the stock lines. Does this mean there is air in the MBC? Will the air work itself out over time since there does not seem to be air in the lines?

 

where to get the SS lines? i mean do you guys have any hook ups?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Gravity bleeding is your friend...... I installed my lines, and never had a problem after that.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Care to detail there dotaReJaY

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PaChiLa Leader &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">where to get the SS lines? i mean do you guys have any hook ups?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I got mine from Mike at IPS, link in my sig.


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dave_B &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Care to detail there dotaReJaY</TD></TR></TABLE>

Rob is gettin slow in his old age... SEARCH is your friend.

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=925064


For the record though I really like my Motive power bleeder instead, much quicker imo.

 

No worries, as others said, this is a known issue. I had the worst pedal feel after installing the StopTech SS lines. After 3 bleeds, nothing. Then my good friend Chris brought over his vacuum bleeding tool, and voila!, the problem was fixed after sucking every bit of air out of there.

It was frustrating as hell, though. I'm just glad the issue is fixed. You need to do a full system flush, maybe more than once.

 

My lines are stoptech No problems!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by migs &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">When you remove brake lines, its FAR too common that air goes up into the MC. Your MC will more than likely need to be rebled. Air in lines are ALWAYS going to make your pedal feel mushy. There is not a break in period of SS lines. SS lines dont over time get firmer because they want to, there is air in your lines.</TD></TR></TABLE>

You can bench bleed your MC while it is on the car. Same process as bleeding your brakes but you loosen and tighten the fittings that are on the master cylinder. Will work in just a few minutes.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by migs &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

You can bench bleed your MC while it is on the car. Same process as bleeding your brakes but you loosen and tighten the fittings that are on the master cylinder. Will work in just a few minutes. </TD></TR></TABLE>

nice tip. That one can get messy though Keep the brakecleaner handy....

 

vaccula does wonders

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My lines are stoptech No problems! </TD></TR></TABLE>

Atila's are stoptech too. We bled the **** out of that bitch and nothing did the trick until we used the vacuum bleeder. God I love that thing.