Cranking but not starting......gimme some hints
Ok, I have a B18c with rywire conversion so I"m pretty confident all the wiring is right. Using a P28 and obd 2 dizzy and injectors.
The car cranks and sounds like it wants to start but never quite makes it. I have fuel to the injectors, i have spark (checked on the shock tower), pulled the dizzy cap off just to poke around and everything appears to be ok. I checked all fuses. Battery is new and i cleaned and rechecked all grounds. The car ran fine before I pulled the old motor so I'm hoping the main relay is ok, plus the fuel pump works.
What else should I check? Tomorrow I'm going to check the timing, maybe compression (but i doubt that's the problem), and re-check the vaccum tubes.
What else would prevent my motor from starting? How can you check to see if your injectors are opening? Which sensors would prevent my car from starting? I am using the TB map sensor and have completely removed the wall mounted map sensor and charcoal canister.
I'm clueless. What am I missing?
The car cranks and sounds like it wants to start but never quite makes it. I have fuel to the injectors, i have spark (checked on the shock tower), pulled the dizzy cap off just to poke around and everything appears to be ok. I checked all fuses. Battery is new and i cleaned and rechecked all grounds. The car ran fine before I pulled the old motor so I'm hoping the main relay is ok, plus the fuel pump works.
What else should I check? Tomorrow I'm going to check the timing, maybe compression (but i doubt that's the problem), and re-check the vaccum tubes.
What else would prevent my motor from starting? How can you check to see if your injectors are opening? Which sensors would prevent my car from starting? I am using the TB map sensor and have completely removed the wall mounted map sensor and charcoal canister.
I'm clueless. What am I missing?
have u changed ur wiring from dpfi to mpfi...i had this same problem with my brothers rex so we changed all the wiring to crx si wiring through out the car and it started right up...its not too hard to put it in just hard to find it and buy it
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LowNSlowHatch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">have u changed ur wiring from dpfi to mpfi...i had this same problem with my brothers rex so we changed all the wiring to crx si wiring through out the car and it started right up...its not too hard to put it in just hard to find it and buy it</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 88 rex »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">..... rywire conversion so I"m pretty confident all the wiring is right. ....
</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 88 rex »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">..... rywire conversion so I"m pretty confident all the wiring is right. ....
</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 88 rex »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How can you check to see if your injectors are opening?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Take your injectors out and hook one up to a AA battery (helps if you have a spare injector plug, I didn't so I had to use a couple crimp connectors that I butchered to fit inside the injector plug). If you hear it clicking or see it squirting then it works.
Take your injectors out and hook one up to a AA battery (helps if you have a spare injector plug, I didn't so I had to use a couple crimp connectors that I butchered to fit inside the injector plug). If you hear it clicking or see it squirting then it works.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boosted_hatch_216 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">are you sure your at tdc?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Unfortunately, I have to check tomorrow. I do know that the cams are pointing in the right direction, but i'll just have to check the crank tomorrow.
Unfortunately, I have to check tomorrow. I do know that the cams are pointing in the right direction, but i'll just have to check the crank tomorrow.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dr_latino999 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Sparkplugs are in good condition?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Well, I kept the plugs in the motor that came with the motor b/c they looked pretty good. They gave spark when touched to the frame, and they are a little white, so i guess the motor was running a little lean at one point. The wires are new and the dizzy looks good.
Well, I kept the plugs in the motor that came with the motor b/c they looked pretty good. They gave spark when touched to the frame, and they are a little white, so i guess the motor was running a little lean at one point. The wires are new and the dizzy looks good.
i hate to admit this but had the same probelm and I had the TPS and MAP sensor pluged in backwards. something so small and stupid but everything else was cool
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ELAMINT5 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i hate to admit this but had the same probelm and I had the TPS and MAP sensor pluged in backwards. something so small and stupid but everything else was cool</TD></TR></TABLE>
TPS is directly across from the throttle, right? and map is on top of throttle body, right? If so then we can eliminate that as a problem.
TPS is directly across from the throttle, right? and map is on top of throttle body, right? If so then we can eliminate that as a problem.
How about cap and rotor/dizzy? How do I know if they are bad? Also, how about a fuel pressure regulator? Could a bad cause the car to not start?
Ok, re-checked the timing on the crank pulley and cam pulley. The cam pulley's match up perfect. Both point UP and the lines on the pulleys match up. NOW, i think my crank pulley might be off a tooth and somehow i might have missed it all this time. On b series you are suppose to line up the single white notch with the line on the plastic covering, right? Mine seems to be off about 5 mm or so, but definitely not dead on. Does this need to be dead on?
Timing now is lined up on crank pulley, cams and dizzy. Still not starting. Checked injectors and they seem to click when attached to the battery so they are fine. Rechecked wiring order, and even ordered new plugs.
How do you know if you have a bad dizzy?
How do you know if you have a bad dizzy?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 88 rex »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Red dust = death of dizzy?</TD></TR></TABLE> Yes, yes it does.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dr_latino999 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Yes, yes it does.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Well, that's good news. I just ordered a brand new one from distributor king.
And secondly, i found my main problem. I wired my stuff wrong on the ecu side. I was stupid and in a rush and wired the plugs backwards following rywire's directions. Switched it all around and now i have a running motor
(and a new dizzy on the way
)
Well, that's good news. I just ordered a brand new one from distributor king.
And secondly, i found my main problem. I wired my stuff wrong on the ecu side. I was stupid and in a rush and wired the plugs backwards following rywire's directions. Switched it all around and now i have a running motor
(and a new dizzy on the way
)
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