Anyone ever used these vision adjustable upper ball joint negative a -arm control arms?
http://www.jhpusa.com/catalog/...1c3c6
I'm thinking i may want them for roadcourse car for ease of adjustment and more negative than the other kits available. I'm maxed out and need more now.
I thought of making my own but am unwilling to cut up a new skunk2 set and have not been able to locate the correct ball joint to build my own

 

why not try these a lot cheaper and it looks like you use your stock ball joint,
http://www.truckn-store.com/pr...89860

 

if anyone has used these i would like to know i was thinking of buying a set

 

I haven't looked at the AIM arms, but 459 for the vision arms is recockulous..I ended up getting the SPC adjustable balljoints from prosuspension.com

http://www.prosuspension.com/p...id=51

they fit right into the factory upper A arm. They give you another 1.5 degrees of adjustment in both directions. They do look offset slightly to one side, and I flipped mine around so that they were biased to the negative side, so maybe you can get a little more.

They do have a 0 to +4 degree model that you might be able to fip around and make it -4, but I can't confirm that.

 

Thanks i may try the aim ones price is much better.
I have been toying with the SPC balljoint as well but i am not sure if i will have enough adjustment with current setup hence looking at the control arms.

 

The AIM arms are junk, you will lose too much travel, the arm does not clear the inner fender in bump. The SPC ball joints have the same problem; the upper adjusting nut of the ball joint contact the inner fender in bump. I have used the SPC ball joints and some of other supposed solutions but the Vision arms are by far the best solution for the DA chassis. However you neglected to say what chassis you want to use them on?


Modified by DB2-R81 at 11:46 PM 8/8/2005

 

Oh sorry thanks it's an EF 1989 honda civic DX
Si motor trans
eibach springs on koni yellows 22mm sway bars
5" ground clearance
15X7" rims on toyo proxes 205/50R15
any more advice would be greatly appreciated as to which front camber kit to buy i keep leaning back to bitting the bullet and buying the vision arms.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Crx Jimmy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">why not try these a lot cheaper and it looks like you use your stock ball joint,
http://www.truckn-store.com/pr...89860</TD></TR></TABLE>

those are pure ****

a few accord owners have them...and only 1 didn't have a problem with any

all were done with just street driving...ball joint falling out, control arm doesn't fit correctly, parts breaking...the company doesn't stand behind their product at all either...and with a 20% or something restocking fee for returned items, you might as well throw them in the trash

this is just my opinion of course...and i have no experience with them

 

No front camber kit is needed on an EF.... (not a direct quote but words from STS national champ and all around nice guy Chris Shenfield)

just change your ride height...

I have built 2 fully prepped STS cars and could get over 3 deg front camber by just lowering the car. And that is also running a 15x7.5 wheel and a 205 tire. It rubs a little but you can make it work. I am now under the impression that neg 2.5-2.75 is easy to get by lowering the car and there will be little to no rubbing.

The visions have the bolts that stick out from the top, these could hit the top of the fender well as the EF has little to no extra room up top..

Good luck

 

Thats very nice and i've read chris's tech page. however for endurance racing i'd like to be able to tune my ride a little for to increase tire wear.
Pyrometer's can be very handy things when tuning your car. I also plan on traveling to different tracks being able to change my cambers to suit each track will be very nice.

 

I have no experiance with them (the parts that is) but OPM Autosports sells a type of camber kit for the EF cars. And they have built a few Race CRX's. You may want to contact them.

Good luck

 

Be careful when using the adjustable ball joints that are part of the upper control arm. The screws do not hold very well to the powercoated metal and the hardware is not always the best quality. You can strip off the powdercoat so the plates can grip on solid metal and you can replace the hardware with stonger bolts from home depot. I have heard mixed opinions on these and personnally use ride hight to adjust camber.

 

you can use ride height to adjust camber, and yes, you can get almost 3 degrees negative, BUT, you will need to be running very stiff springs to keep from bottoming out, and also some shortened shocks.

I'm using the SPC balljoints which have a lifetime warranty. I just put them on, and will be tracking the car soon, so I will be able to give a better review of how they perform, if they slip, or if the nut hits the underside of the shock tower. So far on the street, they have been fine.

I do prefer to run my car with a bit of wheelgap (maybe 1" to 1.5" from the top of the tire to the fender) just to get a little more travel and keep the shocks happy. I am also running 400 lbs/in springs up front, I don't think I'll have a problem, but we'll see how it goes.

 

let me know what you decide to go with and how they work for you. im prolly going to be doing this in the winter while im doing my suspension and bushings.

keep my posted

 

I'm in such a flip flop mode.
Ball joints maybe
the vision arms probably
then again the spc inner adjusters
tough decision. i'm sure $$$ will be then final decider.

 

I had the SPC ball joints before, and they use up alot of room above & below the upper A-arm. They are also very difficult to adjust while the car is on the alignment rack.

I now have the Vision arms, and the quality is top-notch. I haven't had any problems with them, including a year of HPDE events, and a few auto-X events thrown in. I bought them here on HT, and they go on sale from time to time, so just keep your eyes open.

The inner fender liner folds back behind the seam inside the fender well, so I have trimmed the plastic in the area where these A-arms would contact it. You may also may have to message the seam (ever so slightly) with a hammer before installing the Vision arms.
I upgraded the washers & bolts before installing them, same as you would for the Skunk2 arms.

 

I've removed the inner fender liners at the front i just cut them for clearance anyway they are about half way. Had to cut them to get the brake ducting in place.
Anyway i am now leaning another direction
http://www.performanceforum.co....html

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Super79Dave &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I've removed the inner fender liners at the front i just cut them for clearance anyway they are about half way. Had to cut them to get the brake ducting in place.
Anyway i am now leaning another direction
http://www.performanceforum.co....html</TD></TR></TABLE>

I was just going to post that link. "Wes2" arms, lol. I was actually going to try those out but i ended up getting my alignment done a bit early and never got the chance. They *might* be for sale, no warranty i bet, lol. PM "Wes V"