OK so Im onto about my fourth oil pan gasket. They have been pushing out and splitting. Im running a d16z6 w/ T3. The gaskets have been installed by two different mechanics and myself. I have torqued to honda spec, overtorqued, undertorqued...everything!! No matter what, they keep getting pushed out.

The gaskets were NOT pushed out when istalled and a very very thin layer of silicone gasket sealer was used. Both surfaces wee thoroughly cleaned.

So my ideas were:

1) Shitty install. Well after 4 tries and a 20yr honda technician doing it Ive kinda given up on that.

2) Bent pan. I will be trying another one but I think it is a waste of time as I didnt have a problem with this pan on my old engine and the gasket is not always coming out at the same place.

3) Pressure in bottom end due to bad venting. New PCV installed, no change.

4) Pressure in bottom end due to bad rings. Compression test done 180-180-175-175. No problem there. Oil rings? I would think that if there was that much blow by I would be burning excessive oil but Im not.

Also, if my bottom end was being pressurized too much, I would expect to blow a cam seal first, not an oil pan gasket.

Please help me out here. I am really running out of ideas and Im really getting tired of doing oil pans every month.

 

1) are you using an oem gasket?
2) where exactly is it leaking.
3) is this a driveway job? might not be cleaning the oil off of the mating surface well enough..
4) i've been there..

 

In my opinion you shouldn't use the OEM paper gasket. Just slather on a copious amount of black RTV silicone and you shouldn't have a problem with it blowing out.

 

you need to install a catch can to help vent the crank case pressure. even though your rings seal good and you dont burn oil etc...boost will always get into the crank case and start blowing out gaskets and seals.

 

too much blowby, you need to hook up a catch can, and run a new pcv system,

 

Yes, I am using an OEM gasket. OEM gaskets are NOT paper. No its not a drive-way job. I did it in the garage at my work (honda dealership).

A catch can will help how? My understanding of a catch can is that it removes most oil vapours before feeding back into the IM. This wouldnt reduce blow by as the same pressures would build.

Someone please enlighten me.


Also, why would I not blow a cam seal first as they are basically just sitting there?

 

you need to run hoses from your crank case to the catch can to help relive the crank case pressure. vent the catch can to either pre-turbo intake pipe or just run a filter and dump the excess vapours into the air (kinda illegal but it works well)

also if you still running a PCV valve the intake manifold get pressurized and even though the PCV shuts while under pressure it still allows some pressure to enter the crank case.....allot of guys just remove the PCV valve completely route it into the catch can somehow.

read more on how to properly set one up here: https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1199935

 

Also use Honda bond on it

 

Get rid of your PCV system. Route the vent hose from the valve cover, and the vent hose from your block into a catch can or a plastic bottle or any container really--do not run it back into your system or use it as an "oil separator". Your oil pan gasket is blowing (95% chance) because of too much blow-by--there is probably nothing wrong with your motor--that is just the nature of rpm and cylinder pressure...(the PCV system isn't really adequate on stock vtec motors--so anything you do to make more power is going to render it useless)

 

Ok so Im starting to understand the setup but the ports on the rear of the block would not apply on a D series correct? So do I remove the pcv valve and route a hose from there to the can or do I need to remove the black seperator box?

 

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1200364

Do what this guy did to his valvecover.


Also run another catch can like the endyn setup from the back of block.

Search for "valve cover breather", and "crankcase ventilation"

A thread from Dasher (6-7 pages long) will explain all about excessive cranckase ventilation

 

I am having the same issue with gaskets on my recently installed oil pan... I have an open pcv system (dump into air, feed from small filter, no vacuum or pressure working on it).

What i found was that around the oil pan bolt holes there were indentations, so i pounded those out, and it seemed to help. not sure yet if its completely fine, but its not leaking in the same areas that i had problems with before.

I can post my results later when i figure this out... but i too am running a very big tab in gaskets.

 

h0ndab0nd w00t!

 

have you performed a leakdown test?