Even though my piston rings are worn, I'm continuing to put other stuff onto my car but it seems to not make much difference--power(w/ the upgrades). Is it the rings that are affecting my upgrades/horsepower or it wouldn't affect it that much?

 

Are you just throwing stuff at your car or are you tuning it ?

 

your car must have alot of miles.
if you plan on keeping your car.

decide to stick with N/A or FI.
then rebuild the block for either application.
then power won't be wasted by blow-by

 

$ does not = speed

 

Um, depends on where you put the money

 

Give us more info about what else you have incorporated in the car. (What is the "other stuff")
Sequentially please.

If you have done anything to increase compression / cam timing then I could see the piston rings having exaggerated blow-by.

Fill us in please.

 

Well, it's an Ls-Vtec with b16 piston and a head that is milled way past it's limit: so the compression must be very high; so I was told when the head was put back on, the timing is hella retarded(but don't know exact timing, though) because of the head being overly-milled.

Also, I haven't had a chance to dyno tune yet since I haven't got any fuel upgrade like I planned--stuck trying to figure out if a FPR is sufficient.

Could it be the need of more fuel or the timing a little advance in order to extract the power? -- I don't want to advance the timing until it's put on a dyno since the head is overly-milled, I, myself wouldn't know how far advance is too far(my valves may come in contact with my pistons) so I figured I'd leave that alone.

 

ttt


[Modified by 3rdGteg, 9:58 PM 2/21/2002]


[Modified by 3rdGteg, 10:02 PM 2/21/2002]

 

anyone??

 

How much is milled off the Head, My girlfriends LS/VTEC is running CTR pistons and the head is milled .030. Her comp is about 12.6/1. if your car is running slower and slower do a leak down test. This should tell you what is happening inside the engine.

 

Don't know the exact measurement but the first time, the head was milled to the limit mark, then the head warped and then it was surfaced some more in hopes of straightening out the head (so it's now past the limit mark).

How much should I expect a leakdown test to cost me? And how much is the tools gonna cost me to do it myself if I have a compressor already?
Thanks.

 

leak down = $50-100 usually. oh, you spending all your money on stickers and shift ***** by chance? w/ that you have to take em to a dyno and tune the hell out of them

 

Tortex?? Stickers & shift *****? What are you talking about?

 

Dam what octane do you guys in AZ have? I want some CA sucks

 

I will be running 12.5:1 JE pistons and we have 93 and 94 octane here in ohio

 

Stock B18B1 Crank and Rods?

Check this out: http://www.theoldone.com/articles/pistons/

Which B16 pistons are you using?
Hopefully not the B16B, then your dome is .338" higher than before. With a milled head, this leaves you in a dangerous position.
Your cams would have to be tuned to avoid hitting hte pistons (I think). And that would not leave much room for performance.

What's the compression test reading in each Cylinder?

I wonder if your spark plugs are taking any hits?

 

Yes, stock crank and rod. I'm using the 1st gen b16 pistons and don't know what my compression is in each cylinder. I'll probably go and get me a compression gauge. Now I'm wondering if the dyno people would need to know exact measurements of how much my head is milled(which I don't know) to be able to tune it to it's fullest potential. Anyhow thank you for your inputs.

 

QUOTE:
How much should I expect a leakdown test to cost me? And how much is the tools gonna cost me to do it myself if I have a compressor already?
Thanks.

I just paid $250 for a snap-on CLT. It is a great tool to have.

QUOTE:
Dam what octane do you guys in AZ have? I want some CA sucks

She is running 91 octane with 12 Degree timing for daily driving and at the track we run 100 octane at 16 degrees.


[Modified by 2point6, 9:46 PM 2/25/2002]