I just bought my first crx and my goal is to drop in a b18 ls vtech. I'm turning it into a sleeper that will hopefully pay for itself in the long run. if it is built the way it is in my dreams it will be balanced and blue printed, head port and polished , type R pistons or better, comp nitros cams, header, cold air intake, two inch exaust, and about 100 shot. non turbo. b16 head and trany . I was wondering what are some other good components and things to do to make it faster? also is lexand street legal and how expensive is it(the lighter the better)?

 

LS-VTEC, <U>not</U> LS-VTECH.

You could do it the way I did.

I went budget: B16A PR3 pistons (about 11.3:1 with B16A head, more with GSR), ARP rod bolts and head studs, completely balanced bottom end, B16A oil pump and water pump.

 

wow, um lets first start on the basics of adding an intake, some quality headers, and an exhaust then something to tune with. O and that compression with a 100 shot(wet,dry or direct, wont matter) and cast oem pistons wont last too long.

 

u can do what iam doing....b16a head w/b20b block...

 

First off, this is not the Fast and the Furious.

Throwing down huge parts lists like that are great, but the odds are, you're never going to afford half of that ****. Here's some things after reading your original post which I want to advise you on:

First, don't ever spell it "Vtech" again, its a sign that you don't work around Honda's very often, and on this website, will get you flamed.

Second, 2" exhaust is too small. With a strong NA set up 2.25"-2.5" is needed, with the mention of Nitrous, I would say lean more towards 2.5"

Third, it sounds like you're stuck somewhere in between a NA super high compression and a Nitrous monster. I like to say that you should build your car around how you're going to drive it. You say you want a sleeper, which often times is hard to do with a loud, high compression car. Some people might say it's hard to build a sleeper with nitrous because of the obvious sound difference when it's on, and the fact that the bottles arent exactly small (Unless you get a skinny pete, in which case I hope you live close to your local Nitrous Dealer.

Fourth, continuing on the topic of Nitrous, you're already pushing it a bit with a high compression LS/VTEC as it stands, now add in the fact that you'll be cramming air down it's throat via a VTEC head ported and a big CAI, now immagine throwing more air, condensed in liquid form when you're using Nitrous. You're really going to be putting hell on the motor running a 100 shot, so I would say get it sleeved, build a strong valve train to work around.


Look, I've typed enough to might as well keep going... I'll be honest with you, I built my LS/VTEC hoping to be the same way. A sleeper that had enough torque to make it a great daily driver, and surprise a lot of people. If you want to make it a sleeper, don't kid around. JDM body pieces, flashy wheels, fresh paint, fancy lighting, and for the most part a flashy interior all are out of the question. You want to be riding on stock seats, in a car with only enough interior for it to look like it's there. (Door panels, floor mats, seats, dash.)

On the topic of lexan, I question whether or not that will make it look like a sleeper. I mean... full race cars use lexan windows. When you roll up to someone and they look over and see your windows are riveted on, I can bet money that whoever it is next to you isn't thinking "I bet this guy's car is stock."

 

^^Very nice thorough post. One thing not mentioned thus far is do your research, and take your time. Unless you have a huge cashflow and you can just drop your car off at a performance shop. Don't rush things. CRX is plenty light, especially if you strip the back/remove A/C, etc. LS/VTEC CRX is going to more than enough torque to push you along plenty quickly.

 

thanx for the great feedback but i really wanting to know what parts or things to do to make it faster and more reliable. im not gonna be takeing it to a ridiculus rpm so keep that in mind.probably 8500 topps.

ohh and back to the lexand i just wanted to know if it was street legal i never said i was gonna put it on the car. i was just curious. Im not an idiot pulling up to a race saying its pretty much stock with studded windows and no interior would be a dead give away to a blind man. but thanx anyways.

 

dont have any experience with this, but it has been said a few times on here that rivets are not necessary on lexan, you can use clear window caulking, and paint and the edges with black so it looks like stock glass, search for it and youll see

 

8500 isnt rediculous, and if you want a high rev build the head, and rev is fun and all but what is the point if your power curve is..... topping out at 7000rpm and you rev to 10,000 rpm ?&gt; when you shift and your now at 7200 rpm you just missed your peak power.... gearing makes a big difference ide think about a different tranny if you want high rev.

 

I'd like to add a few more things.

First, if you're building an LS/VTEC or B20/VTEC and planning to Rev to 8500, get ARP rod bolts. I don't have them, and I rev to 8200, but I constantly scare myself.

Second, if you want to know things that make you go faster, think of it this way, your car goes fast because it's power-to-weight ratio. That means if you want it to be faster you either add more power or take off weight.

So think of things that add power. High compression adds power, intake adds power (not much, but on an engine like yours you will definately see a change), exhaust, header, high-flow cat (or even a test pipe), good cams add power. A properly tuned engine doesn't neccesarily add power, but it makes sure you're not losing power. A good transmission with short gears will make your car faster. Good tires that help you launch will help you put that power to the ground and make you go faster.

In terms of taking off weight here are some good things to remember. 1) Lower your car's center of gravity, if you have a rear window wiper (motor too), get rid of it, if you have a sunroof, get rid of it (the motor too!). Another great thing you can do is relocate your battery to right behind the passenger seat. It is basically the lowest place on the car you can mount it. Speaking of batteries a small Odyssey battery can weight less than 10 pounds, which is half the weight of your stock one. 2) Between the engine and the ground is where you want to lose as much weight as possible. Rotational mass in the form of heavy wheels is always and easy place to lose a few lbs. Never go bigger than 15" for one thing. Also HX wheels are great for this, but remember the more things that visually enhance your car, the less people are going to think it's stock and the less you're going to be a sleeper. A lighter flywheel is a good place to start, even if all you're going to do is take a brake lathe to your stock flywheel. People have lost as much as seven pounds off their stock flywheel. Onto general weight loss, upgrading you cars crossmember to a smaller, stronger, aftermarket one will also save you a good amount of weight. Carbon fiber hoods are always a bonus as well, but if you can't go that route, cut the inner skeleton of your hood out. It ruins it's rigidity but every pound counts right? Also, consider who all rides in the car, does it really need an adjustable seat? Mounting your seat directly to the floor spaced only for height means ditching your rails which also saves a few pounds. This one may sound silly but if you're really going to care about weight, plan your fill-ups at the station around your racing schedule. If you race on Friday's and Saturday's, try to fill up on Sunday's and then by the end of the week (racing time) you wont be hauling an extra 5 gallons of fuel with you. (That's quite a bit of weight.)

Another thing to remember is your car will only go as fast as you drive it, so learn to time your shifts perfectly, hold the wheel perfectly still, launch well, and get a feeling for your power-band.

 

I should also add that on top of getting ARP rod bolts, get the whole bottom end balanced. Rods should be shaved and balanced (pistons are usuallu extremely close to each other, so usually no need) crankshaft (get it micropolished), get the pressure plate, flywheel, and crank pulley all balanced. I had all that done for only $150 canadian, and my motor is so damn smooth and rev so easily and happily. I've only taken it to 7400 or so, but I will take it to 8200 at the track (I have ARP rod bolts too, and head studs as well ) and I think this block could take 8500 or so without too many problems. Just make sure your machinist knows what he;s doing.